Fastcount03

iTrader: (13)

Lincoln Lock that **** and it will NOT spin off again!!! LMFAO!!!

schino

iTrader: (14)

haha lincoln locked!

wonder if you called one of the pulley manufacturers up and had them make you a pulley thats undersize... just a thought. or bore out that hole bigger and press in a bushing to then hone to size for the new size of the crank.

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

what is this lincoln lock? i didn't think to call the manufacturer. but we did try to get a sleeve and no one seems to have one that will fit. we ordered a small block chevy one and it was too big.


edit* hahahaha gotcha i had to look it up. i never heard that term before.

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

If you have a lincoln locker in the rear end it means you welded it together so its like a locker, named for the popular brand of welder, lincoln. I am assuming he wants you to weld the pulley to the crank

zippy

Unless it is very badly damaged I would just pin that crank and put it back on with a new bolt. It has been done before on more than one occasion and works out great as long as the pulley has a just enough press to it so that it doesn't wobble. You can likely find someone on this site who has the drill and reamer left over from a previous kit. I had a few in my tool box and would have given it out. The pins are available from a hardware type store. For 10 bucks or less you can fix this problem. Once it's pinned it doesn't have the ability to spin so it won't spin the bolt loose (which is what causes the bolt to come loose). One of my friends has a vette that spun the balancer off twice from launching at 6k with a Textrailia clutch on slicks (1.5 60'). One pin kit later and the same balancer has never been an issue again.

TURBHOE

iTrader: (4)

a member is gonna send me one but, he is moving and won't be able to get it to me until probably next week. it does have a bit of press to it. i was able to pull it off after tighting the old bolt to 250 and taking the bolt back out. but i had to jerk the snot out of it to get it off. i figured i would pin it with the dual pin jig, then spin the jig 90* and pin again. that way it would have 4 pins to sit on. and would make it less likly to wobble.

midnight_bowtie

iTrader: (8)

Dont mean to hijack but what are you all talking about when you say "pin"? Can someone please explain.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Have you read the previous comments on this thread. There are several ways to secure a pulley to a shaft depending on the amount of clamping required. How many can you name? Are you NA or FI? It makes a big difference. Some pulleys use only a tiny set screw. A step up would be a flat on the shaft for the set screw to gain additional purchase against. NA on the LS series uses an interference fit. In physics the Law of Impenetrability says: Two objects can not occupy the same space at the same time, but the Interference Fit says: It ain't necessarily so. You take a shaft with an OD that is a few thousandths of an inch larger than the ID of the hub of a pulley and with enough force you can get that shaft into that pulley hub. That's an Interference Fit, but it isn't strong enough for FI. The pulley will eventually spin on the shaft. That's where a key and keyway come in. The thing is the LS series doesn't have a keyway on the crank snout to accomodate keying the pulley to it so you're stuck with pinning it. A hole has to be drilled through the pulley hub from one side to the other and then through and through the crank snout. In order to do this properly some kind of jig or fixture is needed to ensure that these holes line up when it's time to drive the pin home. Sometimes a taper pin is used which requires the additional step of adding a taper to the hole using a taper pin reamer of the correct size. A roll pin can also be employed which does not require these extra steps. The proper pin must also be selected in this case so the spring effect a roll pin offers can be taken advantage of. This is not something you wake up one morning and decide to do. Doing a job like this is on the ADVANCED level of engine building. Changing a cam or heads is one thing. That's just parts swapping. If you have basic mechanical skills and do neat, clean thorough work you can accomplish these tasks, but if you ask me pinning a crank snout takes skill and patience along with the right tools especially if your going to use a taper pin.

Charlie@LsXperts

iTrader: (12)

if you do not have a blower there is no need for a pin, the reason these bolts stretch is to put preload on the pulley. In a few occasions i have seen cranks that are drilled shallow and re-using the old bolt is not an option, it will actually bottom out before making contact with the pulley. I will NEVER reuse a bolt, I had one break on me one time just randomly and if you think about it, how much can you trust steel being torqued that tight and living with all of that heat and abuse being torqued again? If you need a pulley send me a pm ill do my best to get one out to you, but you are paying shipping

Charlie@LsXperts

iTrader: (12)

Oh and asp pulleys have about a half inch that is a different size to help slip it on better... and the torque is.... The old bolt torques to 240, remove old bolt and install new bolt, torque to 37lb ft. then another 140 degrees. But in your case i would not torque the old bolt that high, lol, i have installed hundreds of pulleys just like this and the only time they back off a little is when 900hp hits the rev limiter numerous times (people that can't drive)