Goal to beat 10.36 ET's, 383ci enough?
10-07-2008, 07:38 PM
#31
We know the truth about the information he "claims" to know and have so much experience with... His so called theories don't make sense to people who have any real experience with these things. Like TX, AP, myself and many others...
The bottom line here is, he is gonna have to come up off his stock truck feeling bullshit to run the number he's wanting...
The bottom line here is, he is gonna have to come up off his stock truck feeling bullshit to run the number he's wanting...
10-07-2008, 08:16 PM
#32
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Silver I am a little confused on what you mean. I am reading that as a statement along the lines of saying that in the spectrum of a
Fast truck <------------->Daily Driver<------------>Offroad truck your daily driver is a balance between both so that it can keep it flexible. When you move from a DD you would then have to make a compromise in this situation for a Fast/Track truck we would have to make sacrifices of comfort clearance and the off road ability. and in the opposite direction we would have to sacrifice speed and maybe even for a great trail truck sacrifice the ability to drive it on the road.
Is that what you are talking about or am I completely off on that?
Fast truck <------------->Daily Driver<------------>Offroad truck your daily driver is a balance between both so that it can keep it flexible. When you move from a DD you would then have to make a compromise in this situation for a Fast/Track truck we would have to make sacrifices of comfort clearance and the off road ability. and in the opposite direction we would have to sacrifice speed and maybe even for a great trail truck sacrifice the ability to drive it on the road.
Is that what you are talking about or am I completely off on that?
10-07-2008, 08:39 PM
#33
I'm not saying a daily driver can't be fast, I'm not saying a fast truck has to be a **** daily drive... My point is this: he is wanting to run low tens, a 1/4 mile race... Yet he looks at things like 4th gear ratios when gear choice is concerned? Tell me, how much time will you spend in OD on the drag strip... That's right, none. He wants acceleration, but he isn't willing to go with a big converter. Which is a no brainer in a drag setup... He looks at these little cams for "torque" which is nice... But how much of the drag strip will he spend below 2K RPM??? His weight reduction idea is great, I believe in it myself. It works... But I daily drive a 2000 5.3L ext cab truck with a 224/227 custom cam and a 3600rpm stall converter... It truly gives me no issue idling in traffic, crawling through a parking lot, or pulling a trailer for that matter... Has he actually daily driven these types of setups to know how "terrible" they feel? I bet he hasn't, despite what he may claim.
It doesn't matter what you're in, to run low tens and possibly in the single digits like he wants, he is going to have to re-think his so called "theories"... Am I way off the mark here? ask those guys running solid times what they are running in their setup... I'm willing to bet that 95% of them have cams larger than 224 (that being the smallest) and a 2800 converter... Of course there are setup specific cases... Low stalls with blowers. Etc, but look at nitrous and N/A setups... Those 19 cubes larger than a 6L won't make that much difference.
It doesn't matter what you're in, to run low tens and possibly in the single digits like he wants, he is going to have to re-think his so called "theories"... Am I way off the mark here? ask those guys running solid times what they are running in their setup... I'm willing to bet that 95% of them have cams larger than 224 (that being the smallest) and a 2800 converter... Of course there are setup specific cases... Low stalls with blowers. Etc, but look at nitrous and N/A setups... Those 19 cubes larger than a 6L won't make that much difference.
10-07-2008, 08:54 PM
#35
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OK I get what you are saying and I cant agree more on what I have experience with. Through High school me and a couple buddies used to make some dirt track cars and we built 2 1/4 mile cars to run at the nearby track (North Central Speedway and BIR) So I understand the basics. I personally am not good in the area of setting up automatics for drags as we never did anything with an automatic it was always a Manual. I completely understand why you use a high stall converter and understand that.
A perfect example of this is something that I love to watch and have debated starting to do is in tractor pulls. You have to get the RPMS up to get the max power then you drop your clutch I mean even with the lack of RPM's in a diesel engine you still have to basicly redline them as you would in a car to get the max power to the ground for the take off.
A perfect example of this is something that I love to watch and have debated starting to do is in tractor pulls. You have to get the RPMS up to get the max power then you drop your clutch I mean even with the lack of RPM's in a diesel engine you still have to basicly redline them as you would in a car to get the max power to the ground for the take off.
10-07-2008, 11:51 PM
#38
10-08-2008, 12:02 AM
#39
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Inch-up, earlier in the thread you were comparing cam sizes and what you thought you should run in your 383 by what your buddy was running in his 6.0! You need to seriously re-evaluate how you look at picking cam specs, I'm going to point out a few key differences between your engine and your buddies, all of which will have an effect on what a proper camshaft would be.
1) Stroke- yours is 4.00", your buddies is 3.622", essentially the engine is trying to fill the cylinder at a quicker rate as the piston rises and falls in the engine bore (higher piston speed). 2) Bore- yours is 3.898", your buddies is 4.00" these are assuming stock bores on the engines, this will affect cylinder head choice with the big factors of Valve Size, Combustion Chamber design and volume, as well as port volume and velocity to match your W.O.T. highest shift rpm on the engine.
If you pay attention to these variables in selecting the specs for your head you will be able to retain good low end torque (I said good, not exactly great low end torque) while having the flow required at the top end to wind the motor out - with a relatively sane RPM level for a 4" stroke motor. That way you don't wind up with heads that don't have good flow velocity until 4500 rpm, and with a truck manifold you probably won't see any gain in power past 6,200 RPM anyway.
Just some food for thought.
10-08-2008, 09:52 AM
#40
after reading through this, clearly my pal InchUp has NEVER drag raced... no biggie. 
if you are setting this up to be a race truck, you need to pick the appropriate gear that will allow you to be at redline in 3rd gear when you hit the lights. thats how my brother and i setup EVERY race car we ever had. i would run a 4000 ish converter with at least 3.90-4.11 gears, depending on your tire size, and shift it a little past where it makes peak power, in order to put you right back in your power band for the next gear.
60' times make you or break you in the quarter man. most RACE setup runs a large transbrake on a auto setup... and leave at 4000+ rpm, so if we are gonna go all out here, lets do it. you arent gonna have a stock driving truck that will run low 10's, forget about that.
it will be driveable, but wont feel as tame or pussified as a stock setup. but who wants that? if i set one up to run, it needs to run. period. why build it if you aint gonna run it? mine drives fine everyday, have driven my friends 11.0:1 408 stroker with 4K stall and it drives fine, not like stock, but it drives fine.
you need to get it on a dyno before the track, but only to tune it properly and setup where to shift at. i like to shift about 200-300 rpm past PEAK power, putting me at a great RPM for the next upcoming gear.... that way you wont have to wait for the engine to be in good power... it will just scream the whole run. it wont take as much power as you think to run that time in a light s-10, it will take a good setup, and a correct setup. gearing, stall, good size cam, and correct shift points with an unlocked converter.
god luck with it fella.
if you are setting this up to be a race truck, you need to pick the appropriate gear that will allow you to be at redline in 3rd gear when you hit the lights. thats how my brother and i setup EVERY race car we ever had. i would run a 4000 ish converter with at least 3.90-4.11 gears, depending on your tire size, and shift it a little past where it makes peak power, in order to put you right back in your power band for the next gear.
60' times make you or break you in the quarter man. most RACE setup runs a large transbrake on a auto setup... and leave at 4000+ rpm, so if we are gonna go all out here, lets do it. you arent gonna have a stock driving truck that will run low 10's, forget about that.
it will be driveable, but wont feel as tame or pussified as a stock setup. but who wants that? if i set one up to run, it needs to run. period. why build it if you aint gonna run it? mine drives fine everyday, have driven my friends 11.0:1 408 stroker with 4K stall and it drives fine, not like stock, but it drives fine.
you need to get it on a dyno before the track, but only to tune it properly and setup where to shift at. i like to shift about 200-300 rpm past PEAK power, putting me at a great RPM for the next upcoming gear.... that way you wont have to wait for the engine to be in good power... it will just scream the whole run. it wont take as much power as you think to run that time in a light s-10, it will take a good setup, and a correct setup. gearing, stall, good size cam, and correct shift points with an unlocked converter.
god luck with it fella.