Help with engine build! 6.0 swap

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03-15-2007, 12:59 PM

#11

dhpro

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Quote:

Originally Posted by cpelton

ok if this puts it in perspective I found good condition, low km longblocks (lq4 or Lq9 my choice) for $400 I was thinking about putting in some forged pistons + rods, cam and running low boost and leaving it at that. (for now lol) If i even decide to boost it, I may just cam it and leave it n/a for the time being it will definately be in improvement over the 4.8

Brand spankin is only $600-800! I went with the iron block and bored it out to a 370, all hardened internals and the new MP122...that shud be in ur 550-600rwhp area...no budget build tho! Note the blower (box 1 kit only) was $4k, tranny is $1k (shipped new 4L80) and conversion is another $2300 (complete SE kit with Vig TC)...so ur at $8k before building the internals & heads! Mine's within weeks of install, so I'll let u know...IMO take the stock 6l or even 5.3L iron, change heads and cam, put ur turbo back on it and drive it. The 5.3l like that with the MP112 shud pull close to 450rwhp...obviously the internals won't last forever, and u can do those at same time to avoid the inevitable...PLUS u can get away with a build 4L60 or 65 if u already have a line on one. R/

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03-16-2007, 12:07 AM

#12

PappyDan

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Depending on what the condition of the block and heads are in for $400.00.

If it was me, not saying for you to do this route.

Strip the block down of everything and lay it out for some of it to be reused.
Take the block, crank and heads to a machine shop.
Have them check everything out.
if the block and cylinder walls are in good shape ask what would be the
Lowest number to do on a punch out. 010, 020, 030, 040.
if the crank is in good shape ask about a 10 / 10 turn.
if this can be done you will need a set of 010 over size bearings for the
Mains and rods.
Ask if they can install a set of cam bearings for you and how much.
Write down all of the information they tell you.
New piston and ring size.
Main and rod bearing sizes.
Now ask about rebuilding your heads and how much.
Now at this point the machine shop will put the factory spring in the head.
Pick up a set of springs fro them to use like the LS6, comps 918, or a set of duel springs.
If you supply them, they will install them.
Now you have a shopping list for your new motor.
Just add some arp rod bolts and head blots and you will have one hell of a motor when it is done.
As far a cost to rebuild, here is a basic list and price.

ARP-134-3610 Cylinder Head Bolts, Professional Series, Hex Head, Chevy, LS1, 5.7L, Kit $106.69 Today
ARP-134-6006 Connecting Rod Bolts, High Performance Series, 8740 Chromemoly Steel, Chevy, 350, LS1, Set of 16 $73.95 Today
CCA-54-414-11 Camshaft, Hydraulic Roller Tappet, Advertised Duration 269/273, Lift .525/.532, Chevy, LS1/LS6, Each $396.99 Today
CLE-SH1814S Cam Bearings, Direct Replacement, B-1, Chevy, 4.8/5.3/5.7/6.0L, Kit $25.99 Today
EDL-6953 Exhaust Gaskets, Header, Compressed Fiber, Chevy, 4.8/5.3/6.0L, Set $32.99 Today
FEL-9199PT Head Gasket, Steel Core Laminate, Chevy/GMC, 6.0L, V8, Each $22.99 Today
FEL-MS92211 Gaskets, Manifold, Intake, Chevy, Small Block, Set $42.99 3-30
FEL-VS50504R Valve Cover Gasket Set $20.99 4-2
FEM-2555CP10 Rod Bearing, .010 in. Undersize, Tri Metal, Chevy, Small Block, Each $3.69 Today
FEM-7298MA10 Main Bearing Set; $80.69 4-8
MLE-LS1314030F04 Piston/Ring Kit, Forged, Flat Top, 4.030 in. Bore,1.5mm/1.5mm/3.0mm File Fit Rings,Chevy/Pontiac,6.0L,Set of 8 $596.95
3-25

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03-16-2007, 03:09 AM

#13

cpelton

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Thanks for the great replys so far guys its been a great help! Ok so just looking at my options here. Say I were to keep the 4.8, which is bone stock internally, what additions can me made to boost it SAFELY to say 450-500hp or is that possible with the 4.8? And still keep it reliable. I was thinking to start, meth, z06cam (or one better suited to my application, not sure what the specs would be) Then i'd most likely be able to keep the 60e with a little bit of work, tt2600 stall?
thanks again!

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03-16-2007, 07:33 AM

#14

dhpro

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Quote:

Originally Posted by cpelton

60E won't handle that pwoer for long...FLT level 5 won't even cut it...ull need 4L80 above 450rwhp...I suggest that it won't be much of a daily driver if ur able to get 500rwhp out of a 4.8...but I'd luv to see u do it! Ull doubtless spend just as much or more to accomplish it as if u just went with the 6L...R/

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03-16-2007, 09:06 AM

#15

TurboGibbs

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Quote:

Originally Posted by jnoehl

IMO, an engine swap is kind of un-nessacary. your 4.8 block, since it is iron, can safely be bored out to 99mm and with a stroker crank you can start easily adding up some displacement. as far as the lq4 or 9, the block isnt really going to do much to help you except that it already has a bigger bore. the stock intake is geared to make power low down, not in higher rev applications and on the 99 and 00 lq4's the intake was plastic not aluminum, meaning that you would definitly have to change it for a FI application. The biggest advantage of the lq motors are that the pistons are cast aluminum and you can pust some serious muscle down with out worrying about the pistons, but they are still stock pistons and i wouldnt go over 500hp with them. esp on a daily driver. for all the trouble of swapping the motor and the parts that it would take to get the motor running the way you want, intake, pistons, rods ect. i would just put all that into you current setup maybe pistons rods and crank, go for a set of heads and call it a day you could easily get what you are looking for, unless you reallly want to do a motor swap

Step away from the keyboard please.

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03-16-2007, 10:14 AM

#16

TurboBerserker

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Quik

what the hell you taling about willis?
for teh lsx motors they never offerd a aluminum intake for them
the older LQ4 had iron heads the newer had aluminum...maybe thats what you were trying to say
truck intake does help alot down low but dies off around 6k
boring the 4.8 isnt worht the effort, you can drop the 6.0 in for alot less
also you get teh better flowing heads with the 6litres
tearing down a motor involves money some ppl dont have to dump in which they could just drop a larger cubed motor in and call ita day and less down time
plastic intake will hold up well, many have done it including parish and never blew one apart

Bingo.

500-600 rwhp can be had with a low boost turbo 408. Get a boost controller, and your dd issues are gone. Leave the compression in the 9.5:1 range (but then you can't turn the wick up later) and slap on your turbo down the road.

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03-16-2007, 10:17 AM

#17

TurboBerserker

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Quote:

Originally Posted by cpelton

To make that kind of power with your 4.8 you're going to have to go a lot farther than you would with the LQ4 -- more expensive parts. If it were me, I'd do the LQ4 and lower boost for the same power.

The tranny is out of the question with that much rwhp. Chuck and I worked on a 65 setup to handle my truck for a couple of years and just couldn't make it reliable as a DD -- you'd want an 80E, but a stock one + a shift kit would hold you a loooong time.

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