How do I replace this without pulling the block out of the truck? The cylinder is not damaged. I will use the same GM piston so it shouldn't need rebalancing. Should I replace the rod too? Should I get used parts since I am not replacing the other 7? Should I go ahead and put ARP rod bolts, or are they hard to do?

Also, does this ~one-inch scratch in the head ruin it? It isn't too deep. Could I just smooth out the raised part of the scratch and be ok?

I am on a very tight budget and this is my DD. I know this is half assing it, but I just need it fixed. Also, any tips for reassembly? Thanks for all the help.

 

You would have to drop the pan, pull the oil pump pickup tube and windage tray off. Then I'd just get a used piston and rod assembly from another motor. Hone the cylinder with a dingle ball hone, and put the used piston and rod in the motor and reassemble. Pretty ghetto way to do it, but it would work.

Oh and just smooth out the mark in the head so it can't cause a hot spot and cause detonation.

 

This is obvious but for the sake of saying it, dont forget new rings. If your rod is ok then you dont have to worry about new bearing clearance. However I have seen rods bend from less force than a valve smacking it.

 

It is very very common to replace just one piston in a diesel, but almost unheard of in gas engines. You can do it, but for the amount of work it takes to remove the block vs. the amount of oil that will be dripping on your face, it's worth it to pull it IMO, lol.
Now is the time to upgrade!!!!!!
What cause the valve to drop?

 

Ahhh yes, an "in frame" overhaul! DOIT

 

As stated in your other thread on ls1 tech, I have done this before without problems. I had a truck once with a 454 where the ringlands were cracked from the previous engine rebuilder not using enough ring end gap. I was able to pull the intake, head and oil pan and replace the piston in the truck without issues. Mine was cyl number 1. Just took the windage tray off, loosen up the rod, put fuel line hose over the rod bolts so they don't scratch the cyl wall, have a helper up above catch the piston as you tap it upwards with a piece of wood. Replace your piston on the rod and just reverse it. As stated earlier as well, I don't feel rebalancing the whole assembly is worth it or neccessary since you will never put enough miles on the motor to see the effects of it. You will build another motor or buy another truck by the time you wear the motor out due to a problem caused by imbalance.

 

i would have the head checked by a machine shop before useing it again.
just be ready to buy a new head.

right now you know nothing about the cylinder wall untill you pull the piston out.

 

Matt White1 did this in his truck. Did it all in the truck like your gonna do. Maybe hit him with a pm.

 

I pulled the valve out, turned over the crank and the cylinder wall didn't have any damage. I will probably just get a new/used head because I'm worried about a hot spot in the scratch area. I will be doing this project next week, so I need to start gathering parts.

Does anyone know how to see which piston I need? According the the GM site, they went to a new coating in the middle of the 2003 production. I'm not sure if they would be interchangeable. The vin the engine came from is 1GTHK24U03E119888.

Also, what all do I need to run dual springs? I read that they may need some extra stuff compared to the beehives.

Thanks for all the input.

 

if it is stock bore, what do you have?