how high can a L92 spin
#32
TECH Junkie
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so how did you determine its the stock rod bolts fault? just cause your motor let go at 6200?
dont get me wrong, i am just currious, it would be nice to know the limiting factors of stock rod bolts,i actually never checked or found out the limiting factors of them? wonder if anyone knows? or even if a stress test or something has been done on them?
#33
DAMN! i guess i needa pull my motor and have womacks balance the rotating assembly to handle 7500rpm an upgrade valves. i can live with that small fee and just do a rebuild while its apart. i wouldnt mind boring it out .030 and putting a cam thatll pull to 7k. if i bored it out, id upgrade the heads with a p&p, mill them a lil more, do a FASt 102mm, 1 7/8" LTs with 3.5" exhaust.... wow the gears are turning along with the future divorce ill be getting if i do that lol
#34
12 Second Truck Club
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so how did you determine its the stock rod bolts fault? just cause your motor let go at 6200?
dont get me wrong, i am just currious, it would be nice to know the limiting factors of stock rod bolts,i actually never checked or found out the limiting factors of them? wonder if anyone knows? or even if a stress test or something has been done on them?
dont get me wrong, i am just currious, it would be nice to know the limiting factors of stock rod bolts,i actually never checked or found out the limiting factors of them? wonder if anyone knows? or even if a stress test or something has been done on them?
Well I guess I really don't know 100% that it was the rod bolt that let go first but when it came apart that was the only logical explanation the heads were fine etc etc the way **** was broke it appeared as though a rod bolt came apart. Low mileage, conservative tune 202/208 cam 918 springs, otherwise stock 5.3 un molested
#35
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IMO $70 for the insurance is worth the piece of mind. From what I've heard from some other engine builders is the cheap ARPs will handle more than the stock PCM can handle as far as spark and fueling quick at the time was said to be 8000rpm
Personally $70 and be comfortable, or save it and risk blowing another engine just not worth it. Even if that isn't what caused my failure
Personally $70 and be comfortable, or save it and risk blowing another engine just not worth it. Even if that isn't what caused my failure
#36
well if i dont run 12.5-12.7 now then i may think about upgrading the motor parts. i dont really spin my motor to 6800 all the time. i do A LOT of easy driving and every now and again ill get in a race. i beat on the motor more before it was dyno tuned than i have since the beginning of june. i dont DD the truck anymore but i want it just as reliable as it was when it was stock.
ill be upgrading to a tru-cool 40k after i drop my truck. ive kinda been more into looks lately since all my performance parts are installed.
ill be upgrading to a tru-cool 40k after i drop my truck. ive kinda been more into looks lately since all my performance parts are installed.