Kateck arp rod resize
#1
Kateck arp rod resize
This title was intended to help people search for rod bolt resizing answers. This has been a topic for a long time. There is some misleading information out there. I will list the facts as I know them:
1. Arp bolts are a bolt in replacement.
2. Arp bolts don't mess up good rods.
3. Arp misleads its customers by saying "in their instructions "always resize your rods when you can't perform this procedure on a cracked rod. What they should say is, make sure your rods are within specs when installing new rod bolts.
4. katech rod bolts have more realistic install instructions.
5. If your rods are out of round, Katech nor Arp rod bolts will save your engine!
I am an Ase master technician with a firm understanding of engine repair , but even I can make mistakes. If you feel my information has an error. Please post up.
1. Arp bolts are a bolt in replacement.
2. Arp bolts don't mess up good rods.
3. Arp misleads its customers by saying "in their instructions "always resize your rods when you can't perform this procedure on a cracked rod. What they should say is, make sure your rods are within specs when installing new rod bolts.
4. katech rod bolts have more realistic install instructions.
5. If your rods are out of round, Katech nor Arp rod bolts will save your engine!
I am an Ase master technician with a firm understanding of engine repair , but even I can make mistakes. If you feel my information has an error. Please post up.
Last edited by slowec; 03-21-2008 at 08:31 AM.
#4
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The instructions are obviously a canned instruction in which they are refering to older style press-in bolts/studs(technically) that can change the rod ID due to distortion when pressed in thus needing re-sizing. Cracked rods cannot be resized of course.
#5
Some of my ARP bolts were a tight fit into the rod. There's a metal sleeve in the hole that the bolt barely fits through. It obviously throws off the torque readings. Was I supposed to remove the sleeve? Or ream it out or something?
#6
Sorry Steve, I am not sure. My ls1 rods holes were plenty big enough to fit the arp's. The shank or non-threaded part of the bolt next to the head is slightly larger than the threaded portion but it slid easily into the rod cap on mine. I'd call the 888 number for arp tech assistance and see what they say. You are right to be worried if it is taking some force just to turn your bolt in a rod cap though. Could you post a pic of the sleve you speak of. Good luck.
#7
Yes, you were supposed to remove the sleeve.