LM7 5.3,iam in need of cam info.
09-02-2011, 10:12 PM
#12
I hope you are wanting to do Long Tube headers and a tune also. Are you wanting to put a converter in it as well or keep the stocker? I highly suggest upgrading your stock converter going past a cam in the mid 21x/21x range.
Something like a 212/218 cam or all the way up to a 220/220 cam would be perfect I think. On the 220/220 you will want to have an open exhaust with LT headers, and later on a 3000-3200 converter. On the 212/218 you could probably get away with keeping the stock converter for a long while if you wanted, but a 2800 converter would make it much better.
Now if you are not wanting to get Long Tube headers, higher stalling converter and a tune, I think the cam comp picked out for you is correct actually. Maybe the comp tech was confused and thought you didn't want to change anything else but cam and springs idk lol.
If you are wanting to do Headers, tune etc (maybe stall) then yes the 206/210 is way to small.
Something like a 212/218 cam or all the way up to a 220/220 cam would be perfect I think. On the 220/220 you will want to have an open exhaust with LT headers, and later on a 3000-3200 converter. On the 212/218 you could probably get away with keeping the stock converter for a long while if you wanted, but a 2800 converter would make it much better.
Now if you are not wanting to get Long Tube headers, higher stalling converter and a tune, I think the cam comp picked out for you is correct actually. Maybe the comp tech was confused and thought you didn't want to change anything else but cam and springs idk lol.
If you are wanting to do Headers, tune etc (maybe stall) then yes the 206/210 is way to small.
09-07-2011, 09:24 AM
#13
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I hope you are wanting to do Long Tube headers and a tune also. Are you wanting to put a converter in it as well or keep the stocker? I highly suggest upgrading your stock converter going past a cam in the mid 21x/21x range.
Something like a 212/218 cam or all the way up to a 220/220 cam would be perfect I think. On the 220/220 you will want to have an open exhaust with LT headers, and later on a 3000-3200 converter. On the 212/218 you could probably get away with keeping the stock converter for a long while if you wanted, but a 2800 converter would make it much better.
Now if you are not wanting to get Long Tube headers, higher stalling converter and a tune, I think the cam comp picked out for you is correct actually. Maybe the comp tech was confused and thought you didn't want to change anything else but cam and springs idk lol.
If you are wanting to do Headers, tune etc (maybe stall) then yes the 206/210 is way to small.
Something like a 212/218 cam or all the way up to a 220/220 cam would be perfect I think. On the 220/220 you will want to have an open exhaust with LT headers, and later on a 3000-3200 converter. On the 212/218 you could probably get away with keeping the stock converter for a long while if you wanted, but a 2800 converter would make it much better.
Now if you are not wanting to get Long Tube headers, higher stalling converter and a tune, I think the cam comp picked out for you is correct actually. Maybe the comp tech was confused and thought you didn't want to change anything else but cam and springs idk lol.
If you are wanting to do Headers, tune etc (maybe stall) then yes the 206/210 is way to small.
09-07-2011, 05:28 PM
#15
Actually, I think that those lift numbers are smaller than stock...sounds like they spec'd you a small block chevy cam 
Maybe they thought the cam was for the original engine in the 1990? As jrmchevyman mentioned, the Comp 212/218 is a great, proven all around cam for the 5.3, and for more power and a higher curve, the TR220 took bluecajun's old rcsb into the 12's with stock heads, 4.10 gears, slicks, and a 3200 converter. If you keep the valve lift under .600, you can use a single beehive such as the PAC 1218's...don't get the Comp 918's as they have a bad track record of breaking. If the heads are to remain unmilled, a good hardened 7.4 pushrod is par for the course. If headwork is done, as well as new lifters, you'll want to invest the $18 for a pushrod length checker and do it that way. You shouldn't need to upgrade the rockers for the cams mentioned, as the stockers have proven themselves many times.
Read around here and the GM Engine and Exhaust Performance sections and you'll find weeks worth of cam readings that will make your head spin.
Maybe they thought the cam was for the original engine in the 1990? As jrmchevyman mentioned, the Comp 212/218 is a great, proven all around cam for the 5.3, and for more power and a higher curve, the TR220 took bluecajun's old rcsb into the 12's with stock heads, 4.10 gears, slicks, and a 3200 converter. If you keep the valve lift under .600, you can use a single beehive such as the PAC 1218's...don't get the Comp 918's as they have a bad track record of breaking. If the heads are to remain unmilled, a good hardened 7.4 pushrod is par for the course. If headwork is done, as well as new lifters, you'll want to invest the $18 for a pushrod length checker and do it that way. You shouldn't need to upgrade the rockers for the cams mentioned, as the stockers have proven themselves many times.Read around here and the GM Engine and Exhaust Performance sections and you'll find weeks worth of cam readings that will make your head spin.
09-08-2011, 03:47 PM
#17
Actually, I think that those lift numbers are smaller than stock...sounds like they spec'd you a small block chevy cam Maybe they thought the cam was for the original engine in the 1990? As jrmchevyman mentioned, the Comp 212/218 is a great, proven all around cam for the 5.3, and for more power and a higher curve, the TR220 took bluecajun's old rcsb into the 12's with stock heads, 4.10 gears, slicks, and a 3200 converter. If you keep the valve lift under .600, you can use a single beehive such as the PAC 1218's...don't get the Comp 918's as they have a bad track record of breaking. If the heads are to remain unmilled, a good hardened 7.4 pushrod is par for the course. If headwork is done, as well as new lifters, you'll want to invest the $18 for a pushrod length checker and do it that way. You shouldn't need to upgrade the rockers for the cams mentioned, as the stockers have proven themselves many times.
Read around here and the GM Engine and Exhaust Performance sections and you'll find weeks worth of cam readings that will make your head spin.
Maybe they thought the cam was for the original engine in the 1990? As jrmchevyman mentioned, the Comp 212/218 is a great, proven all around cam for the 5.3, and for more power and a higher curve, the TR220 took bluecajun's old rcsb into the 12's with stock heads, 4.10 gears, slicks, and a 3200 converter. If you keep the valve lift under .600, you can use a single beehive such as the PAC 1218's...don't get the Comp 918's as they have a bad track record of breaking. If the heads are to remain unmilled, a good hardened 7.4 pushrod is par for the course. If headwork is done, as well as new lifters, you'll want to invest the $18 for a pushrod length checker and do it that way. You shouldn't need to upgrade the rockers for the cams mentioned, as the stockers have proven themselves many times.Read around here and the GM Engine and Exhaust Performance sections and you'll find weeks worth of cam readings that will make your head spin.
Your are correct budhayes3, sounds like the comp tech did in fact spec the cam out for the original 1990 engine lol. I knew something wasn't right.
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