regcabls6

i wanna say the piston sticks about .010 don't quote me on it though.

Spoolin

iTrader: (8)

I think I saw you in the video, gold teeth, nappy hair, chain hangin low, 'wobbling', that was your right?

Pull your pan and take a picture already you homo!!

1slow01Z71

iTrader: (36)

Dear god Frenchy, you are WAAAYYY over thinking this. Remember a longer rod is going to push the pin higher up in the ring pack along with a thinner ringland. If youre planning on pushing this motor I would rethink your 6.3 rod idea, theres a reason why no one uses them on standard deck blocks.

Do you have ANY idea how many pics I have in my photobucket? Over 6 years Ive hosted a metric **** ton of pics and not a damn one of them has a pic from the underside of my motor. I can however this weekend take a pic of my old JE pistons for you, they were swinging on a 4.1 stroke crank and 6.125 rod but youll get a good idea.

If you want to run a 4" crank just get an LS2 block, and problem solved. Richard knows all about my issues and can set your straight.

Youve got all these resources from people in the biz giving you advice yet you continue to conjur up some secret recipe on your own?

Spoolin

iTrader: (8)

I'd rather over-think this than under-think it like I did with my last set-up. I can't tell you how frustrating it was to have a 750rwhp truck and get 2.7 second 60ft times, it was ridiculous. I'm also reading, listening, and asking questions from quite a few professional engine builders, so I'm not coming up with these ideas on my own and out of the blue. I'm not the cookie cutter type of person that will just do something just because Bob next door did it and it's working out well for him.
The LS2 block idea was also an option at some point due to it's longer sleeves but pushing 18+ lbs through a sleeved aluminum block and asking it to stay together for a long time made me stick with the iron block idea. Not that it wouldn't work either, it's just that I already have the iron block and it's been proven time and again to hold up well to that kind of power reliably.


Last week Jarrett (stock48) spend a couple days down here in LA and it gave me an opportunity to run a few things by him. He gave me tons of great advice/idea's, I also asked him if would be possible to run that size rod without compromising the ring pack. It might be possible but he has to double check with a friend of his who builds custom pistons.
I don't see anything wrong with trying out different combination's, maybe it'll work maybe it won't, like you said I have plenty of resources in the biz giving me great advice, I'm just trying to sort out all the advice because not everyone says the same thing.

budhayes3

iTrader: (19)

LOL...Cody gave up

1Bear

iTrader: (1)

I think the 3.825” crank is a fine idea personally, maybe I would go with a little shorter rod, but still overall I like it. I also thought that really a 3.750” was a better choice than a 4” in the shorter sleeve blocks for reliability in street applications, but due to the wonderful amount of space available in the bottoms of the LS motors, people took advantage of it by shoving the largest arm cranks they could. The aftermarket of course responded by supplying people with just what they wanted. Of course this makes the 408 kits very affordable. Before this crank became available you would have had to have one built and maybe it really wasn’t worth it. I still believe a 4” or larger stroke crank is fine for a race motor, but where longevity is one of the primary goals, I just feel keeping the pistons as stable as possible should be one of the many goals in keeping a happy motor.

Also coming from someone with a little MP112 that we know to struggle feeding anything much more than a 6.0L and where a 408 may be just a little too much, maybe a motor that is close to 20ci smaller would do a little better.

Spoolin

iTrader: (8)

Cody I'm not asking everybody the same question, far from it actually. I even took Kenny's advice to heart and sold the LSX TD block on his recommendation. When someone like him suggests that I walk away from a motor project I listen, and I did. He made it clear that that block was meant for things that are beyond my means, so I swallowed my pride, took a hit on it, and sold it.
He pointed me in a direction and like you said, I'm rolling with it. "Build an under square, low cubed motor for boost", however, being one of the golden boys of race and FI motors his prices are a little out of my league.
So I started over from scratch with my friend Henry, he lets me know when my ideas get a little to wild helps me re-focus on what is and isn't possible. I ran some ideas by Richard and Rex, who are priceless in their own right, as you know. And since I had to pleasure of hosting Jarrett for a weekend I took advantage of it and asked him for advice.


I wish he wouldn't but whatever.

1slow01Z71

iTrader: (36)

LS2(or LS3) block, 3.825 crank, 6.125 rod DONE!

About as good of a ring package as you can get, while maximizing CI and piston stability. The aluminum blocks are doing just fine with reasonable HP and if you really want to push it you can girdle it.

There I didnt give up .

Spoolin

iTrader: (8)

That is my primary goal with this motor as this truck is and will remain my daily driver. Callies also makes a 3.900" crank if I'm not mistaken.

Spoolin

iTrader: (8)

Thanks Cody! The LS3 block is still an option for me anyways.

Now that this thread got all off topic...anyone have any pics? Still curious...