LQ4 with boost? cam advice
#1
LQ4 with boost? cam advice
I am looking for a cam for my LQ4 for my RCSB 02 chevy I have a 3200 stall and 3:73 gears already I have been looking and found a "nitrous cam" but i think it will work pretty decent Duration @ 0.050 is 228/236 Lift is .551/.600
Lobe Seperation: 114
any thoughts? My truck is getting a Front mount turbo system and intercooler just hope to see 10-12psi
Lobe Seperation: 114
any thoughts? My truck is getting a Front mount turbo system and intercooler just hope to see 10-12psi
#4
built bottom end?
so what gives up first? crank? or the rods and pistons? I figure that good rod bolts new bearings and rings cam and valve train it would make a motor pretty stout to make 550hp or so .. hell they are over 300 stock and close to 400 with heads and cam
#6
I think the LQ4 is ALOT better then a 5.3 and has alot better cylinder head / Bore combo to make alot more HP... I had 7psi of boost on My 5.3 for 90,000 miles !!!!!! I am not going to say I tried to blow it up but it didnt Rack up the miles sitting still
#7
Tribe Shaman
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some ARP rod bolts
and some ARP head bolts
and a good dyno tune and you should be good to go.
now allot of people will state, ( if it was meeeeeee, or I WOULD GO WITH, and
the just for insurance you should do this)
the stock bottom end is pretty strong, the weakest part is the bolts that hold it
togather, some have showen as much as 700 to 750 hp on a stock bottom
end of a 5.7 and 6.0 with FI or NOS.
all they did was replace all of the stock bolts with blots from ARP
and got a good tune.
if you want to spend a few minutes of your time to check.
do a search for a blowen motor, busted crank, snaped a rod, pop a pistion,
burned a hole, broke the crank, lifted head, broke a rod.
i have seen more broken springs, spun bearings, oil pump quit, then blowen motors.
most like to share with pictures.
the last set of snaped rods i have seen on here, you can find under hydrolocked.
the truck wanted to go fishing too, sucked in some water, and died.
and some ARP head bolts
and a good dyno tune and you should be good to go.
now allot of people will state, ( if it was meeeeeee, or I WOULD GO WITH, and
the just for insurance you should do this)
the stock bottom end is pretty strong, the weakest part is the bolts that hold it
togather, some have showen as much as 700 to 750 hp on a stock bottom
end of a 5.7 and 6.0 with FI or NOS.
all they did was replace all of the stock bolts with blots from ARP
and got a good tune.
if you want to spend a few minutes of your time to check.
do a search for a blowen motor, busted crank, snaped a rod, pop a pistion,
burned a hole, broke the crank, lifted head, broke a rod.
i have seen more broken springs, spun bearings, oil pump quit, then blowen motors.
most like to share with pictures.
the last set of snaped rods i have seen on here, you can find under hydrolocked.
the truck wanted to go fishing too, sucked in some water, and died.
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#8
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Originally Posted by sprayed99
10-12psi you better build that bottom end first or you might be picking up parts down the track.
aaaa, 10-12 All day long and 13.5 peak with nothing but 918 springs for me. No ARP bolt, no aftermarket pistions, cam, gaskets. NOTHING. If you throw my top mile per hour (119) and wieght (5,000lbs) in a calculator it gives an estamated 775 crank hp and 658 rwhp.....
How long will it last???
It's too hard to say, I drive my truck EVERYday, I tow a boat at low boost, well O.K I have hit 12 psi with a boat just to kill a ricer (THREE TIMES). I honestly beat the living crap out of my truck everyday, the result? after one year with a used LQ4 (20,000 miles when I bought it) I have too much crank case pressure, from what I'm not sure of (head gasket or pistion rings).
One other think to think about, is it isn't how much boost a engine can take but rather how much cylinder pressure it can handle. Timming has ALOT to do with cylinder pressure, you could run 20 psi through a stock block as long as the spark was retarded enough to keep pressures down.
***SO It's all in the tunning**
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