LQ4 heads
#11
Already have all that besides a stall. Don't want a stall till I go with a bigger cam. And have the money for lol. I still tow a lot with my truck so havnt decide what kinda stall I want. Probably a yank 3200HD
#12
If you mill the heads you will definitely need some shorter pushrods and every motor is different slightly so a $20 push rod length check is perfect. I prefer the comp cam one, had a trick push rod checker and the nuts are in the way making it useless.
The 243s will have a smaller cc chamber than milled 317s, b/c I wouldn't mill heads more than .03 IMO deck surface starts to get to thin. But 243s will run you +/- 300 and the 317s are free so I would just use the 317s milled and spend that 300 on good springs, pushrods, lifters gaskets etc.
If you are trying to save some money I would do the headers and cam at the same time so you can pay to have it tuned once.
The 243s will have a smaller cc chamber than milled 317s, b/c I wouldn't mill heads more than .03 IMO deck surface starts to get to thin. But 243s will run you +/- 300 and the 317s are free so I would just use the 317s milled and spend that 300 on good springs, pushrods, lifters gaskets etc.
If you are trying to save some money I would do the headers and cam at the same time so you can pay to have it tuned once.
#13
the 212/218 in a good towing cam smaller is better for towing and larger better for top end hp in general. more compression will help towing but you don't want to high of compression for towing, that's why gm never exceeded 9.5-10.1 range in their suv line. I don't know if I would spend the money on 243s b/c your 317s flow the same so really you would be paying 300ish for a .5-.6 compression jump. Little expensive for 300 IMO
Last edited by 69Camaro427; 01-15-2014 at 12:58 PM.
#14
the 212/218 in a good towing cam smaller is better for towing and larger better for top end hp in general. more compression will help towing but you don't want to high of compression for towing, that's why gm never exceeded 9.5-10.1 range in their suv line. I don't know if I would spend the money on 243s b/c your 317s flow the same so really you would be paying 300ish for a .5-.6 compression jump. Little expensive for 300 IMO
#16
You will see a gain going to a 90mm truck intake. But it isn't neccessary for the truck to run good. The 78mm intake flows pretty well. Plus w/o the 90mm tb, you're pissing in the wind with the bigger intake.
Your truck with the stall only will out perform an identical truck with 243s instead of 317s, no question about it.
4.8/5.3 heads are cheap. Get a set of those and see if you can't clean them up. Turn around and sell those. Put the money towards other mods. Id rather learn to work on the truck heads vs. the 243s.
#17
I agree! You would benefit from a larger intake, but making the switch for 10-15 hp isn't worth the $600+ price tag. The truck intake and nnbs are the best low end power intakes period. All the other intakes trade tq for top end hp. The nnbs will trade some lowend for hp but near as much as it would on a 5.3L.
I assume you have the 4L80e being an 04? If so a stall will really help with that sluggish 1st gear. DON'T over stall it. I would figure out which cam route you want to go and from there decide on the stall speed. If you run the smaller cams you won't need a stall, but it would run way better with a 2600-3200 range. IMO stalls over 3200 are radical not so great for a dd tow truck. The stall might hurt city mpg slightly but highway will be unaffected.
I assume you have the 4L80e being an 04? If so a stall will really help with that sluggish 1st gear. DON'T over stall it. I would figure out which cam route you want to go and from there decide on the stall speed. If you run the smaller cams you won't need a stall, but it would run way better with a 2600-3200 range. IMO stalls over 3200 are radical not so great for a dd tow truck. The stall might hurt city mpg slightly but highway will be unaffected.
#18
Thanks guys! And I really want a stall but I cant justify spending 900$ on one.. would rather spend a couple hundred here and there.. A stall will have to wait till after school. The only reason im thinking about the heads is becuase of my class. What are the casting number on the 5.3'S 317? And as far as cam goes i was thinking maybe a tsp 220 or maybe a 224. Which I really need a stall with a 224. And cause ill want a low lsa cause its all about sounding cool
#19
862 and 706 are both the truck head #s the 706's were known the crack more than the 862 They sell all day for $100+/-
Ls1 heads should be cheap also I think they are 841 and 853 but I'm not 100% on that.
The 224 would drive with the stock stall just might be a little doggish down in the low rpms. I personally like split pattern cams for N/A Ls motors b/c the exhaust runner are a lot smaller than the intake runners. The split pattern cams say 220/224 for example will let the exhaust valves hang open a little longer. but this is just my 0.02
A lot of people have awesome results with single and split pattern cams. To much split like the thumper will give an AWESOME sound but no go go
Ls1 heads should be cheap also I think they are 841 and 853 but I'm not 100% on that.
The 224 would drive with the stock stall just might be a little doggish down in the low rpms. I personally like split pattern cams for N/A Ls motors b/c the exhaust runner are a lot smaller than the intake runners. The split pattern cams say 220/224 for example will let the exhaust valves hang open a little longer. but this is just my 0.02
A lot of people have awesome results with single and split pattern cams. To much split like the thumper will give an AWESOME sound but no go go
#20
keep checking CL for a used stall. When I bought my lq9, I got a guy to throw in a used 3200 stall out of an F-body for free! I knew I'd be upgrading in less than a year and it wasn't my 1st choice for a stall, but it sure is MUCH better than the stock converter