jophuss36

iTrader: (1)

swapped a 6 liter in my truck it will bolt right up to. The 4l60e with no problems. Bit keep in mind the 60 can't handle a lot of. Extra power for a long time. I had mine built when I added the stall. As far as heads go I d keep a smallish intake runner size to keep your torque up, and for a can that will be good with no stall, there's a few of them out there, try thunder racing.

danny_c

Did you feel a huge difference by going to A 6.0 or is it overated? I cab get a used 6.0 with ecu for 1000. is that a good price?

GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

It's not a huge difference, more or less I felt like "this is what it should have come with stock." Overall it just gets up and goes much easier and cruises much better on the highway going up hills and such. Others will tell you it's night and day, but I've never felt that way about any mod I did.

jophuss36

iTrader: (1)

i went from a 5.3 to a 6.0 and i noticed quite a bit in torque, expecially when off roading. it was definatly quicker too but not by a crazy amount. it really depends on what engine it is and how many miles. if its a lq9 i paid 1700 with 11000 miles, my first 6.0 was an lq4 with 35000 miles for 1000. i think thoes were pretty good deals. be careful with the 6.2 though i think you have to change the computer with that.

jophuss36

iTrader: (1)

id say for 1000 bucks if its a low milage 6 liter your not going to find a better improvement for 1000 bucks plus a better starting point for later mods

highroller02

I have the k&n 57 series i think i forgot the one with the plastic tube but if I could do it again I would go with a different one like volant or something a little cheaper as for the headers they are edelbrock shorties,only reason I went with those is I live in cali and they were smog legal otherwise I would have gone with pacesetter long tubes.The yank 2600 is a great daily driver because it feels almost stock but like most I wish I would have gone to at least a 3000 which I will in the near future.

SynergyV8

iTrader: (1)

The Tahoe should have never been paired with the 4.8L from the get go. The two and a half ton beast is too heavy for a motor under five liters. The 4.8L has it's place in GM's V8 line up, but not in any SUV, at least in my opinion.

For the amount of money you will spend to make a 4.8L fast, you could drop in a used 6.0L and be horsepower and money ahead. As long as the 6.0L is newer than '01, you can pull the 4.8L out and bolt the 6.0L up in less than a weekend. Everything from your 4.8L will transfer and bolt on to the 6.0L. If you can get LS parts for cheap, bolt on a set of LS6 heads and you'll be sitting 75hp and 100lb-ft of torque better than the 4.8L with similar or better gas mileage!

danny_c

Well you guys suggested so i did it. I got a good deal on a LQ9 long block, 300 bucks! the catch is that it has a couple of spun rods. I sent the crank out already to get machined and micro-polished. Now new questions. Is this worth punching out to LS7 specs? My buddy said he could get me a brand new set of forged pistons for 400 bucks. What cr?

SynergyV8

iTrader: (1)

The 6.0L block can typically go .030-.060" over safely, but it can't be bored to the LS7's 4.125" bore. Plus, the extra displacement of the LS7 is achieved with the longer 4" crankshaft compared to the 6.0L's standard 3.622" crank.

A set of new forged slugs for $400 is a good deal but only get them if you feel you need forged. Forged pistons should be reserved for high winding applications only in my opinion, or where severe detonation is predicted (which I can't see why there would be on a properly set up engine). Cast hypereutectic pistons will cover everything your new motor experience up to about 7,000 rpm's. Your desired compression ratio is hard to spit out on the spot and is more or less your decision and your decision only, because none of us know what kind of motor you're building yet.

highroller02

Damn thats a good deal,that thing will be haulin *** keep us posted.