new model rods
11-29-2009, 06:59 PM
#31
the pistons are the same price. $525 iirc. it will cost $250 plus to bore to 5.7l. i break **** cause ***** weak. lol two broken axles and a few transmissions. last tranny i broke, the output shaft had to be removed with a slide hammer. other than that i haven't really broken anything that comes to mind. i never beat on it when anything is cold. but when people **** me of in traffic i lay the hammer down. i only run 10psi on the streets. sometimes i hit the 12.5psi high boost switch. that's for the fast cars that i come across every once in a great while. ...
Cmon, u know u want to.
****'s weak, yes, & you're puttin much more power down than stock & have a heavy beast.
Sometimes, layin down hammer is needed. I know exactly what you're sayin!
I just need a bigger HAMMER!!!
Soon I hope. 
11-30-2009, 11:05 AM
#33
ok so i called scat and they told me there rods are good to 750fwhp. and there h-beams are good to 1000hp. soo........ and to bore my 5.3 to a 5.7 which is a .124" over bore will cost me $500 thats with a torque plate. so looks like 5.3l pistons it is.
11-30-2009, 08:36 PM
#34
Yeah i am using those scats for my 5.3 too, Wiseco has Their new forged 5.3 pistons at 581 a set fwiw, they come in 3.78 and 3.80 bore and they also have them for 4.00 strokers fwiw, I am Going through a similer dilema, do i bore my 5.3 to a 5.7, 3.78 to 3.903 or do i use the wiseco's and 55cc heads to get my compression up, I think id be happier at the 5.7liter bore but it gets spendy when you bore it that far, oh well its only money right? LOL
11-30-2009, 09:15 PM
#36
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I pick my 2000 c5 ls1 block $400 with heads.
$1000 fo rods, pistion, and rings.
$500 in machine work (boring block. New cam bearing,
banlaces the crank for new rods and pistions, and bottom end bearings)
$250 for head studs
400 for gasket and lifter.
So no matter witch way you go it won't be cheap.
For 500 to punch your 5.3 to 5.7 isn't bad at all. That cost for my block.
$1000 fo rods, pistion, and rings.
$500 in machine work (boring block. New cam bearing,
banlaces the crank for new rods and pistions, and bottom end bearings)
$250 for head studs
400 for gasket and lifter.
So no matter witch way you go it won't be cheap.
For 500 to punch your 5.3 to 5.7 isn't bad at all. That cost for my block.
12-01-2009, 07:50 AM
#37
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Rick
12-01-2009, 08:17 AM
#38
$500.00 is ridiculous I build alot of +.100'' over Big block chevys, and pay $275.00 W/Tq plates. Thats using one of the best Super stock mechinists in the country. Another thing that I will say is the factory machine work on these Ls engines is superior to what many machine shops are turning out. So do your homework before hand
12-01-2009, 08:58 AM
#39
this is guy is the best in this area that i know of. so he can charge more i recon. he said it was becuase he would have to make to swipes with the hone machine to reach that bore. so far he has turned out some good products on the other motors i've had him do.
stock 48 are you saying to just buy a new block from gm and build it? i know the guy has done alot of homework as far as hone styles for the newer style rings and what not. the hemi we just got back looked real good. you could see the cross hatch but bearly feel it.
stock 48 are you saying to just buy a new block from gm and build it? i know the guy has done alot of homework as far as hone styles for the newer style rings and what not. the hemi we just got back looked real good. you could see the cross hatch but bearly feel it.
12-01-2009, 09:37 AM
#40
No I wouldnt buy a new block as the factory machine work isnt all that special its just better than what many shops are turning out. There are those out there that can do as good or better. The price is high but If it were me, and the guy is top notch Id probably go ahead and pay the 500 if he is the best around. People who are good usually like to get paid for what they do. Only thing that sounds funny is the two hone jobs. The block should be bored to withen .007" of finished bore size then plate honed to size. You cant check the machine work with your fingers, you need a dial bore gauge and most important know how to use it.