Oil Talk. Mobile 1 0W-30
#11
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0W flows like water and is supposed to ease up on pumping loses so it'll give 3% better mpg's.
I tried it once on a insane 400 SBC and even with the oil restrictors it still pumped the oil into the covers quite regularly.
Maybe these new motors are different with priorirt main oiling. Or maybe becouse when it pumped to the covers I was reaching for 7000 rpm?
Either way I am a bit skeptical, and think my 5W is just fine, and any fuel economy improvements would be minimal on its best day.
I tried it once on a insane 400 SBC and even with the oil restrictors it still pumped the oil into the covers quite regularly.
Maybe these new motors are different with priorirt main oiling. Or maybe becouse when it pumped to the covers I was reaching for 7000 rpm?
Either way I am a bit skeptical, and think my 5W is just fine, and any fuel economy improvements would be minimal on its best day.
#12
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to my knowledge, the SECOND number given in the title of "10w30" is the viscosity. which is the same a 0w30. to dumb it down, the first number represents how thick the oil is, the 2nd number represents how much it will thin down after heating up. i see no benefit to using a 10, 20, or whatever weight oil over 5 and 0, simply because all of the oils will offer the same viscosity at operating temp, but the 0 and 5 weight oils are easier to pump. the most damage a normal engine sees is on startup, so logic leads me to believe that the thinner the oil the better.
i've ran nothing but 0w and 5w oil in my cars. if you're an oil pressure gage reader, then thicker oil is for you. the gen 3+ sbc engines have much tighter tolerances and oil delivery than those before. there is no need for a 10w oil when using a properly built gen 3+ engine.
i run 0w30 all the time in central indiana. i've put a total of 75,000 miles on 2 stockish ls1 cars with m1 0w30 over the past 4 years with little to no drop in oil pressure and obviously no problems. if i had a big block super stock b car that we only ran 2.5 qts in i might consider a thicker oil. but 95% of the engines we deal with are nowhere near that level haha.
i've ran nothing but 0w and 5w oil in my cars. if you're an oil pressure gage reader, then thicker oil is for you. the gen 3+ sbc engines have much tighter tolerances and oil delivery than those before. there is no need for a 10w oil when using a properly built gen 3+ engine.
i run 0w30 all the time in central indiana. i've put a total of 75,000 miles on 2 stockish ls1 cars with m1 0w30 over the past 4 years with little to no drop in oil pressure and obviously no problems. if i had a big block super stock b car that we only ran 2.5 qts in i might consider a thicker oil. but 95% of the engines we deal with are nowhere near that level haha.
#15
PT's Slowest Truck
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The first number is an oil's viscosity characteristics cold, and the second is an oil's viscosity characteristics hot. An oil with a 5w-30 viscosity will be *physically* thicker cold, but protect like a thinner 5 weight oil, then be physically thinner hot, yet protect like a 30 weight oil.
Something I've noticed with Mobil1, I've run their 5w-30, 10w-30, and their old truck and suv formula, (can't remember what viscosity that was...15w-30 maybe, or 5w-40? one number was greater), any way, my truck had more oil pressure with the 10/30 than the 5/30 at operating temp, which shouldn't make a difference since their both supposed to be 30 weight oils. The truck and suv formula showed the same oil pressure as the truck and suv stuff fwiw.
Something I've noticed with Mobil1, I've run their 5w-30, 10w-30, and their old truck and suv formula, (can't remember what viscosity that was...15w-30 maybe, or 5w-40? one number was greater), any way, my truck had more oil pressure with the 10/30 than the 5/30 at operating temp, which shouldn't make a difference since their both supposed to be 30 weight oils. The truck and suv formula showed the same oil pressure as the truck and suv stuff fwiw.
#16
Inch, I would do one of three things in your situation Get a new thermometer, Get a new Freezer or, do the test. Your average freezer is around 0*F +/- 10*F. I myself have a refer trailer and a large meat locker that I keep much cooler -20--10 in the trailer and bellow -20 in the locker.
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Inch, I would do one of three things in your situation Get a new thermometer, Get a new Freezer or, do the test. Your average freezer is around 0*F +/- 10*F. I myself have a refer trailer and a large meat locker that I keep much cooler -20--10 in the trailer and bellow -20 in the locker.
Btw, built408 brought up another good point. My truck is N/A all the way and when building it I gapped the rings on the tight side per what the Hilton's manual gave for a ring gap. I forget the actual numbers and I don't have the book with me for reference at the moment, but I remember being on the tighter side of the allowable ring gap.
#19
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I run 0w30 BG oil in my truck, granted it is a stock 5.3L, and have had not problems with it what so ever. Bout to turn over 98,000 on it and oil pressure is always up where it should be regardless of weather conditions.
The thinner oil just allows better flow in cold weather from what I hear. Letting the truck sit over night in 0 degree weather will make the oil thicken up so it doesnt get to your valve train as quickly. The 0w seems like it would be better for you since you are up in minnesota anyway.
The thinner oil just allows better flow in cold weather from what I hear. Letting the truck sit over night in 0 degree weather will make the oil thicken up so it doesnt get to your valve train as quickly. The 0w seems like it would be better for you since you are up in minnesota anyway.
#20
A few obsevations on oil viscosity.
5W or 0W is the oil viscosity at -18 degres C.
the 30 or 40, is the viscosity at 100 deges C.
To be able to make a 0Woil, the oil company MUST use a much higher base stock oil, i,.e the oil before any aditives are added. edit.
At least two years ago they had to use a TRUE sunthetic = PAO, Poly Alfa Olefine base. (spelling?)
Not a "synthetic" as alowed in marketing.(a court case some years ago, Mobile VS Castrol i belive)
Rember that the viscosity inside a engine plain bearing is something different than what what is stated on the lable of an oil bottle!
With the right combination of oil pressure and oil FLOW, your engine will last as long as possible.
To sum it up, use a 0W-20(ford),30/40/50 oil depending on how your engine is set up as for bearing play, and worry no more!
A stock lsX engine wil be extemly happy with a 0W-30 oil.
If built with bigger tolerances, maybe a 0W-40 oil is called for.
//
5W or 0W is the oil viscosity at -18 degres C.
the 30 or 40, is the viscosity at 100 deges C.
To be able to make a 0Woil, the oil company MUST use a much higher base stock oil, i,.e the oil before any aditives are added. edit.
At least two years ago they had to use a TRUE sunthetic = PAO, Poly Alfa Olefine base. (spelling?)
Not a "synthetic" as alowed in marketing.(a court case some years ago, Mobile VS Castrol i belive)
Rember that the viscosity inside a engine plain bearing is something different than what what is stated on the lable of an oil bottle!
With the right combination of oil pressure and oil FLOW, your engine will last as long as possible.
To sum it up, use a 0W-20(ford),30/40/50 oil depending on how your engine is set up as for bearing play, and worry no more!
A stock lsX engine wil be extemly happy with a 0W-30 oil.
If built with bigger tolerances, maybe a 0W-40 oil is called for.
//