1slow01Z71

iTrader: (36)

I just had a birthday maybe that has something to do with it, mainly it will just get edited or deleted anyway and Im tired of arguing so...

TurboBerserker

iTrader: (1)

Others will get edited and deleted if they hassle you for your troubles.

dirt track racer 81

iTrader: (45)

ok the point has been said. just make sure i have a good 6 point impact socket

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

The corners of those bolt heads may be a little dinged up, but certainly no where near being rounded off. Maybe locktite was used when it shouldn't have been making it harder to get them out. Besides sides good 6 point sockets an assortment of different length 1/2" drive extensions always comes in handy to get EXACTLY the right purchase on the fastener be it a bolt or a nut on a stud. Being square and flush with the fastener makes all the difference in high torque situations especially in the first few degrees of rotation of the wrench when removing head bolts or nuts from studs. If you've turned enough wrenches you know it's always the last few degrees when tighening or the first few degrees when loosening that are the hardest. This is when having the right tools for the job really makes a big difference.

TurboGibbs

iTrader: (6)

One thing I have noticed about the ARP bolts and stud nuts for the gen3 is that the heads will often be std sae and not metric. I rounded a few trying to use a metric socket. I suspect that is the case with yours Cody. ARP is obviously using std blanks that they have for the nuts and bolts just turning them down differently and threading with metric.

1slow01Z71

iTrader: (36)

here we go again