INTERNAL ENGINE MODIFICATIONS Valvetrain |Heads | Strokers | Design | Assembly

Ring gap/forced induction recommendation ***carnage pics inside***

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Old 03-19-2012, 01:34 PM
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Interesting read. http://www.acl.co.nz/Tech/Compressio...%20Engines.pdf
Old 03-19-2012, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by AKlowriderZ71
Hey, there is a piece of your piston missing just incase you were not aware....



JFWY, sorry to hear of the carnage...
Old 03-19-2012, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by gonzo 6.0
The one pic has a # 1 piston on it,was that the hole it came from? Usually its # 7 that blows land first,my buddys denai 6.0s same thing happend #7.It beat up the head a little and the bore was fine,we tossed in a new stock piston and the stock heads went back on.Ran perfect,went back stock
Yes, it was #1 that let go. I just ordered a new piston and head gaskets, they should be here in a week or so.
Old 03-19-2012, 02:14 PM
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I don't see any scratch in the cylinder wall, the ring looks nice & flat, and I can see a tiny shiny spot where the ring gap comes together. I don't see any damage to the head or valve, and the compression test was good. I really don't know if it was a ring gap issue or detonation at this point. I'm just going to get her back together and turn the stereo down from now on when I stand on it.

I've been looking at ring gap recommendations from different piston and piston ring manufacturers. There's some very general information out there, but nothing really seemed to apply to my setup. So I called Total Seal's tech line. I talked to a guy there named Bobby, explained my setup, and that it may someday see a shot of nitrous on top of boost. He recommended a ring gap factor of .0065 for the top ring, and .0055 for the second ring. So I'm going to bust out my ring filer and regap the rings a bit before going back together. I figure it can't hurt, so why not. It's already apart.

As for the rod bolts, they are reuseable. I only rev to 6400ish, so I really don't see any need for aftermarket rod or main bolts. All of the bearings look brand new still, and the crank looks great, so it looks like this should be a fairly cheap fix.

Last edited by AKlowriderZ71; 03-19-2012 at 02:34 PM.
Old 03-19-2012, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by AKlowriderZ71
Yes, it was #1 that let go. I just ordered a new piston and head gaskets, they should be here in a week or so.
I saw a link to a thread here a little while back that said some guys were recieving the wrong head gaskets from GM so double check your part numbers when they come!

I too hope/think it was just a freak thing, i wouldnt hesitate to put a new piston in and bolt her back up and beat her like the ***** she is!!!!!
Old 03-19-2012, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by AKlowriderZ71
Pumpkin truck guy won't return a phone call.....

Rod bolt question-- Service manual shows the rod bolts and main bolts are stretch bolts. In my experience, that means DO NOT REUSE. What have you guys been doing?
All bolts stretch. I bought some brand new crank main bolts because i was worried about the exact same thing. When I got the new bolts from GM, i measured them to compare to the ones I pulled from my block. The two sets were identical. I measured all of them and found this to be true for every single one of them. From my understanding, the TTY bolts like our head bolts stretch and stay stretched hence the reason for one time use. I replaced my rod bolts for the ones from ARP so, I couldn't tell you for sure if the same applies. Take it for what it's worth but, I would have re-used my stock mains if I knew this before I bought the new ones.
Old 03-19-2012, 02:35 PM
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Those ring gap factors are pretty aggressive. I don't think you need to go that high.
Old 03-19-2012, 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by TIM Z
I saw a link to a thread here a little while back that said some guys were recieving the wrong head gaskets from GM so double check your part numbers when they come!

I too hope/think it was just a freak thing, i wouldnt hesitate to put a new piston in and bolt her back up and beat her like the ***** she is!!!!!
The mis-packaged head gaskets that I've read about were the LS9's. I ordered part #12498544 this time, it's a kit with 2 head gaskets for a very low price. I think it's within a dollar or two of the price of a single head gasket. But the bore size is for LS1/LS6, so it wouldn't work for you 6.0 guys.

The piston and gaskets will run me less than $100 with my discounts, so I'm getting off pretty cheap.
Old 03-19-2012, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by smokeshow
Those ring gap factors are pretty aggressive. I don't think you need to go that high.
I'm all ears, what's your suggestion?
Old 03-19-2012, 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by AKlowriderZ71
The mis-packaged head gaskets that I've read about were the LS9's. I ordered part #12498544 this time, it's a kit with 2 head gaskets for a very low price. I think it's within a dollar or two of the price of a single head gasket. But the bore size is for LS1/LS6, so it wouldn't work for you 6.0 guys.

The piston and gaskets will run me less than $100 with my discounts, so I'm getting off pretty cheap.
JB Weld would've saved you some $$$


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