trevorh1

yea i left all of gm's "stuff" in there just made it shiny and smooth. yea i still think its going to be a dog down low but seems like most 5.3s are till you get to about 4000 then the breath pretty good. im planning on making up the tq with some 373 gears here really soon maybe 410s im no to worried about running the texas mile just my local 1/8th mile and i only live 3 miles from work so i can still dd it

Camin00

If you do mostly city driving and hardly no highway I say go 4.10s

I have 3.42s and do about 60% highway and 40% city I would love a set of 3.73s just dont want my highway 23mpg to go down to 19-20 haha

I dont want a stall either. I think they are annoying as hell for a dd and just eat fuel. My friend put a yank 3000 stall in his truck the thing has to run between 2000-3000rpms to get to 0 to 30-45 mph just eating that fuel. But man is his truck badass when he floors it or does a rolling punch

I was also thinking about later down the road getting the LSXRT intake manifold but dont like the idea of spending $1600 for 20-25rwhp when that could be money applied to a DIY turbo kit

trevorh1

yea im leaning more towards 410s ill eventually put a still in it, i like the stall comvertors. but ive been drag racing my whole life. i like the lsxrt intakes but way to much for me. ill just a a nnbs intake with the bigger throttle body and port it and get the x linkfor way less than the lsxrrt intake itself

lglowe

iTrader: (3)

I'm in the process of porting my 706s a little. One head is done. I blended the angle in the roof in the beginning of the port, took out rocker stud lump, removed swirl, took down valve guide boss and blended bowls some. I think they should help a decent amount. If I gain 10-15 HP na then ill consider my diy good cuz thatll be a 20-30 HP gain at 15 psi.

mcfarlnd

iTrader: (15)

I would definitely recommend a valve job afterwards just in case you hit the seat.

Camin00

What do yall pay for a valve job?

I have decided to take out the rocker lumps and leave the swirl ramp. Do a light polish with 140grit on the intake runners and around the valve guides. For tq I need high velocity of air flow not high volume in the intake side.

On the exhaust side I have decided to open the outer ports out around .05"ish making a nice D shape that is still smaller than my header diameter and polishing again with 140grit

Plan on getting the heads milled .01 to bump compression up slightly and have a smooth surface for an flat even lay across the motor.

If the heads I get dont have the notch I plan on buying cometic .04 head gaskets

trevorh1

not trying to thread-jack you, just giving an update. i installed my trick flow 216/220 .560/.560 114lsa with my mildly ported 862 as well as the summit valve train upgrade (came with trick flow brand springs good to .650, lift rocker arm upgrade, and a bad a$$ tool to put in the vise to install new bearings, and new spring retainer locks) got all this installed on my 03 rcsb 5.3 un-tuned and made a whole new truck out of it. took it a while to relearn itsself how to idle. i have only revved to about 4k and it pulls way harder than it did and it has a nice choppy idle.

Camin00

Got a set of 01 862s with 55k miles and no notch, stock valve and springs lastnight for $80 plus $20in gas to get them.

What do yall pay for milling trying to not get screwed.
I called a shop and they said $50 a head for .01 off

so $100 for .01
$200 for .02

Beatdown Z

iTrader: (18)

That's about what I paid for having .010" taken off my heads.

Camin00

Ok cool thanks man been looking around on google at some machine shops and that seems about right