pretty neat I wonder if anyone here has tried it

 

What about just putting weld on the broken off stud. Use a mig welder, and build up weld on the end of the stud so you can grab onto it with a pair of vice grips. The heat from welding will help it break loose.

 

I feel your pain!

Had the very same one break on my truck, actually I found it already broke off in the head.

So I pulled the head and tried a E-Z out and just like you it broke off lol. So after hours of using a dremel to grind through the hardened E-Z out I finally was able to get a larger E-Z out in far enough to catch.



If you can't weld a nut onto it your going to have to pull the head if you want it removed.

After instead of using studs I used the ARP cam bolts for LS motors, they also work for header bolts.

 

Good thing is the weld wont stick to aluminum, and as the aluminum heats up it will expand more than the steel bolt, making it looser.

 

I run the Stage 8 locking fasteners

 

The Stage 8's are nice but can be tricky getting all the retainers on. My ARP cam bolts have not loosed a bit! Using the Ultra-Torque from ARP and torquing them down real good is all they needed with the factory MLS gaskets. Now with a graphite gasket or paper I could see them backing out on you, or if you didn't snug em down enough.

 

Thanks for the advice guys ill let you know on the progress.

 

I have not one, but TWO broken bolts in the heads of my 02 HD. it starts and leaks like hell, but once the truck warms up it seals. still annoying.

anyone have a picture of how this kit mounts? i'm not picturing it in my head and it could be a lot easier than pulling the exhaust and welding on nuts.

 

NVM
Dorman's Manifold Clamp Installation Video - YouTube

 

that little bracket looks like it would work. Ive always been able to get them out with ez outs and the proper drill bit and a lot of heat.