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Oh she’ll do burnouts lol. Spins tire in 2nd and third up to about 70ish mph. Definitely glad I have the smaller motor because the linear torque curve helps the truck put the power down pretty decent. Usually starts spinning after about 4500 or so rpm. It feels great. Still a few small issues to work out. The 5/8” heater core hose is leaking at the heater core so I’ll probably have to pull the intake manifold to tighten the clamp up a little more. Mostly small stuff, nothing that stops me from driving it though. I’m really happy I built the truck.
I don’t have any pictures but it was just a round piece from a 1/4” drive extension I would guess about 3/8” in length, I could have even went a little shorter to be honest. Just put it inside the master then rotated the master back in place. Didn’t have to pull the push rod off the pedal or anything. It was a super easy fix.
Its super easy to do. The master cylinder just rotates clockwise a quarter turn and comes off, cut a really small piece off a 1/4” drive extension and push it into the master it should fit snug then slip the master back on and lock it into place. I had a similar problem with my 5.0l swapped pre runner ranger when I put a m5r2 trans in it from a thunderbird super coupe, tried 3 different masters before finally cutting the pushrod and extending it about a half inch then she shifter perfect.
hmm... might be on my list, too.
thing i don't get is it must be a spacing issue or something, though... because i cross-referenced the slave part numbers between my nv3500 & nv4500, and they're the same. the old one shifted with less pedal actuation, so i'm thinking it's either set back a little farther, or the pressure plate forks are closer to the motor (using OEM-equivalent LuK setups on both as well), and maybe a slave shim would fix it... but then i'd have to take the transmission out again.
From the research I’ve done it’s just that the gm slave cylinders are a complete bitch to try to bleed. My slave was right up against the pp when the trans was installed, the issue I noticed was just that the master took about 3/8”-1/2” of travel before it actually started building a firm pressure so I basically just preloaded the master via use of a small spacer. I went through the same ordeal on my long travel 5.0l ranger and tried three different clutch masters, bled it for what seemed like a week straight before I just said **** it and made a spacer to make the pedal start working sooner and it fixed it right away, shifted great from then on.
02-05-2020 | 01:27 PM
