New to the s-10 world, what to look for?
12-23-2011, 05:20 AM
#11
Teching In
Join Date: Oct 2011
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I had a 98 sonoma 2.2 5spd for a while, great little truck. Not very fast, but it got high 20's average mpg, and always ran good, looked great too being rust free and lowered. I too went from 2nd to 5th more times than I care to admit.. third is just reallllly close to 5th.
03-20-2012, 12:19 PM
#13
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Join Date: Mar 2012
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with my experience the stock mirrors are terrible and fall apart. Also i've been rear ended at stop lights twice.. so watch out for idiots.. they love s10's..other than that my truck has been great.. although it's a sonoma not a s10.. i've repainted mine and i still run the 4.3 untill it blows.. then it's ltime for ls1
03-20-2012, 02:15 PM
#14
I have owned a lot of s10's still have a 2wd blazer in my experience replace the ball joints now they always broke on me and there is a bunch of brake options for you. Ls1 f body brakes and vette brakes can bolt on using brackets and factory parts or a number of aftermarket resources if I find any links I'll post em
03-23-2012, 12:53 AM
#17
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I have a 2000 Silverado 4by4 with a passlock problem. I read your article on the GM Pontiac so I decided to try it on the Silverado.
The Key has no resistor or chip in it.
I have taken the covers off the steering and the lock is ready to work on.
1) there is a 3 wire bundle with plastic piece across the 3 wires about 1 in. from the lock.
2) The manual (CHILTON) states that the red wire is the 12 volt and that the ye low wire is the "DATA" to the BCM
3) The last wire of the three must be a ground signal return.
So I cut the data wire and the return and solder a 2.2k Ohm resistor, I left the "plastic thing" still on the side of the wires going to the "KEY"
then I started the re-learn.
Nothing, I got the security light flashing. There is one improvement the "check engine light" goes ON when I turn the key to ON, before "NO security light".
If you have any words of wisdom or better, a diagram of what it should be, please help.
Thank you
Hector Celis
The Key has no resistor or chip in it.
I have taken the covers off the steering and the lock is ready to work on.
1) there is a 3 wire bundle with plastic piece across the 3 wires about 1 in. from the lock.
2) The manual (CHILTON) states that the red wire is the 12 volt and that the ye low wire is the "DATA" to the BCM
3) The last wire of the three must be a ground signal return.
So I cut the data wire and the return and solder a 2.2k Ohm resistor, I left the "plastic thing" still on the side of the wires going to the "KEY"
then I started the re-learn.
Nothing, I got the security light flashing. There is one improvement the "check engine light" goes ON when I turn the key to ON, before "NO security light".
If you have any words of wisdom or better, a diagram of what it should be, please help.
Thank you
Hector Celis
03-23-2012, 05:10 PM
#18
Ok so its been awhile since Ive update about my little s10...
New 3rd light cover, antenna, and tires are all on. Also have tailgate cable recall kit to do at some point.
The new tires are Cooper RS3-A 245/50-16 and are a very nice tire so far. No experience in the rain with them as they have only been on for a couple days.
Also figured out the BRAKE and ABS light issue out and I have a bad ABS module... Dont see myself fixing that anytime soon unless I can find a good module at a junkyard or where ever. I also think I need to replace the PS resivoir cap, seems to let some fluid out sometimes.
New 3rd light cover, antenna, and tires are all on. Also have tailgate cable recall kit to do at some point.
The new tires are Cooper RS3-A 245/50-16 and are a very nice tire so far. No experience in the rain with them as they have only been on for a couple days.
Also figured out the BRAKE and ABS light issue out and I have a bad ABS module... Dont see myself fixing that anytime soon unless I can find a good module at a junkyard or where ever. I also think I need to replace the PS resivoir cap, seems to let some fluid out sometimes.
