trever1t

iTrader: (14)

yeah, didn't want to say it since you were committed already but they do drone a bit


Not that mine isn't loud in the cab

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

they dont call them dronemasters for nothing

crisp

HA! So I am finding out!


No big deal... I suspect you can put a mid-pipe resonator and "kill" SOME of it if you had to?

I'll see how it does on some longer highway driving... then reflect on it! SOUNDS MEAN for now, anyway!


-crisp

crisp

TUNES! Okay, so now that I am head-long into the process of learning a few "tricks" about how to "spice up" my truck from a performance standpoint... I am also turning my attention to the AUDIO aspect! The stock radio (don't know if it's the BOSE system... so please advise HOW to tell if you could...) sounds LAME-O (my standards are a bit high... heh heh...) and I need to make some upgrades quickly! I have plenty of amps and such laying around from past projects... but may start fresh here. I believe the front doors are 6.5" components and I have a high end set of Dynaudio's that should serve up front, but don't know REAR door specs. Someone told me 5.5" if NOT BOSE system, and 6.5" in rear (coax) IF BOSE system. Can anyone confirm?

Also, the SUB options seem limited with the convertible rear bed pass-thru! The drop-down rear seats also create some issues for amp mounting... and I'm beginning to wonder what everyone else is doing. (SHAME on me... I need to SEARCH and READ some more... but thought I'd throw it out there until I learn more on my own!)

Looks like JL Audio makes a REALLY neat rear bed partition REPLACEMENT PIECE that is custom designed for the Avalanche and has two W3 subs in custom enclosure that mounts RIGHT into the stock panel location! Down side = PRICE is WAAAAY up there! $$$$$

I MAY look into it more later, but for now, I'm going to plan a good head unit for my iPod connect (Alpine has done me well in some of my other applications...) and eventually a three amp setup. (What I usually use.)

FRONT channel
REAR channel
SUB channel


Can anyone tell me how to tell if it's the BOSE head unit? (I would have thought it would SAY BOSE, but someone said it may still only indicate DELCO... so I'm unsure...)

Reason it's important is, the front driver speaker sounds "torn" and I'd just START with speaker replacement up front, but I'm told the BOSE system is 1 ohm and won't run conventional 4 ohm speakers... so I'd need to do BOTH the speakers and head unit. (No "progressive" upgrade...)

Is this true? If it's the normal head unit, is it capable of driving a 4 ohm load?


Anyway... tunes are on the list now!



-crisp

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

I thought the bose systems had "bose" on the speaker grill.

Why dont you do a 4 channel for the front and rear and a seperate sub amp. I personally use a big 5 channel, makes wiring much easier.

crisp

Can someone confirm the "BOSE" on grill as indicator of this?


Regarding the 4/5 channel option, good question! I am partial to independent amps for "control" and "flexibility". Of course, many of today's fine 4/5 even "other" configuration capable bridgeable amps are more flexible than in the past... but they would HAVE to have independent front/rear INPUTS AND OUTPUTS for me to use. (Some 4/5 channel don't have this...) I like complete control of front/rear fader output AND separate SUB attenuation... as well as the ability to use various existing 2 channel amps I have around in "mix-n-match" setup. The "existing stuff" portion of my reasoning is the biggest factor! I have been "playing around" with car audio for enough years that I always seem to have a few amps laying around! Lastly, for BEST POWER I have found that 2 channel (or MONOblocks, in the case of subs...) work extremely well in casting off heat AND generating great control over the drivers.


On another note... the MOUNTING dilemma for my amps may lead me to opt for a multi-channel in the end... such that it goes under a front seat, for example... we'll see... TOO COLD out to work on stereo these days here in the Buckeye! DOH!


-crisp

crisp

UPDATE!

Just sent an email to "Justin" at BBP for ADVICE on what my next step is to get TUNED!


Any advice from you all on things to consider, etc... as I proceed? (Still waiting to hear back. Ready to "pull the trigger" on a moments notice!)


Also, does the addition of the e-fan mod "change" the tune affect enough to matter? (I'd suspect it's not enough load on the motor to need a re-tune... but what do you guys KNOW to be the case?)

Lastly, I'm looking at that HAUL button and understand you can have an "optional" shift-tune setup for it. I don't "haul" anything (but my own ****, HA!) so I'd be up for a "special application" or tune with the button if it's recommended... or should I just leave that feature alone?


NOTE: I'm still in this thread 'cause I'm STILL introducing myself! HELL-O!



-crisp

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

Tell justin you are thinking about putting on efans so he can go ahead and set it up to come on, I believe he sells the harness too. You wont need a retune, but you will need the computer tweaked to turn them on and off, unless you want to do it manually of course which I dont recommend.

The tow/haul button offers seperate torque converter and shift properties than regular. Justin can set you up with that too if you decide to go with him.

lownslo

iTrader: (3)

Wow i missed this thread, crisp, welcome to pt.net. You seem to be on the right track and have great advice from the members so far! Very nice stable you have also. I would love to see some video's of the supra.

I know that there are many tech questions you have, and none better than the members here to answer those. I appreciate the well spoken post, and look forward to watching you get bit by the mod bug!

Welcome again!

crisp

THANKS! I DID mention the e-fan plans and asked about the tow/haul button, so hopefully, he will preemptively speak to those in his response!

...just waiting for instructions now! Can't WAIT to get a tune on!


BTW, does anyone run a bung to exhaust and EGT or AFR monitor on their trucks? (I do BOTH for my Supra... including narrow and wideband for closed loop and full-range tuning feedback. Perhaps not necessary in a basic mod like my truck?)


-crisp