New to GMT800 chassis and new guy here
07-16-2012, 09:03 PM
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New to GMT800 chassis and new guy here
Hi,
I just bought a 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 6.0 gas 4L80e 4x4 (which I think is pretty standard). I'm coming from a 95 Chevy Silverado 1500 ext cab 350 TBI 4L60e that I've just recently sold. I bought the 2500 cheap with high miles (nearly 300,000) but it's in good shape overall. It has pretty much all the bells and whistles and it cleaned up very nice. What I'd like to know are the gotcha's or common failure points I need to check. The transmission is being rebuilt right now so that issue is being addressed.
The engine runs great, no smoking and does not use oil at all. It has one small drip leak that I think is either the oil pan or the rear main seal. The engine overall is pretty dirty and is due for a serious clean up. I'd say it needs valve cover seals and valley cover/knock sensor seals just guessing since I haven't pulled anything apart yet. Overall the engine doesn't appear to have had any major repairs. The only thing I've spotted is that the coolant hose assembly (heater hoses and the hoses between the overflow and the radiator) have been "fixed" but it's a patched together repair. It's functional but it's ugly.
I've already replaced the stoplight switch after troubleshooting the cruise control (did not work at all). It came apart in my hands after I noticed the brake lights wouldn't shut off after a trip to a friend's house. Replaced the switch, problem fixed. I also replaced the pitman arm and adjusted the steering box to get the slop out of the steering. After an alignment it drives much better than it did prior to the repair.
Things to address: The factory fog lights are broken, the bumper upper and lower plastics need to be replaced, both rear bed side flares are broken and need to be replaced, AND the tail pipes have the red neck treatment - 2-1/4" compression bent pipe through generic Flowmaster mufflers (BOO!). The exhaust CANNOT breathe well like it is. My question is why didn't the exhaust shop tell the previous owner that squeezing down from 3" head pipes to 2-1/4" compression bent pipe isn't a good idea.
SO - if you've read this far my plans are to rebuild the engine when it goes, possibly a boost friendly cam (or the stock cam if it's in decent shape), and a front mount turbo kit. The whole point of this truck is to tow my camper and my Camaro wherever and whenever I want to go. I already have a hot rod in my 68 Camaro so I'm not interested in doing anything to make this truck unreliable in any way.
After reading all this does anyone have any input or suggestions?
Thanks,
GeoffP
I just bought a 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500HD 6.0 gas 4L80e 4x4 (which I think is pretty standard). I'm coming from a 95 Chevy Silverado 1500 ext cab 350 TBI 4L60e that I've just recently sold. I bought the 2500 cheap with high miles (nearly 300,000) but it's in good shape overall. It has pretty much all the bells and whistles and it cleaned up very nice. What I'd like to know are the gotcha's or common failure points I need to check. The transmission is being rebuilt right now so that issue is being addressed.
The engine runs great, no smoking and does not use oil at all. It has one small drip leak that I think is either the oil pan or the rear main seal. The engine overall is pretty dirty and is due for a serious clean up. I'd say it needs valve cover seals and valley cover/knock sensor seals just guessing since I haven't pulled anything apart yet. Overall the engine doesn't appear to have had any major repairs. The only thing I've spotted is that the coolant hose assembly (heater hoses and the hoses between the overflow and the radiator) have been "fixed" but it's a patched together repair. It's functional but it's ugly.
I've already replaced the stoplight switch after troubleshooting the cruise control (did not work at all). It came apart in my hands after I noticed the brake lights wouldn't shut off after a trip to a friend's house. Replaced the switch, problem fixed. I also replaced the pitman arm and adjusted the steering box to get the slop out of the steering. After an alignment it drives much better than it did prior to the repair.
Things to address: The factory fog lights are broken, the bumper upper and lower plastics need to be replaced, both rear bed side flares are broken and need to be replaced, AND the tail pipes have the red neck treatment - 2-1/4" compression bent pipe through generic Flowmaster mufflers (BOO!). The exhaust CANNOT breathe well like it is. My question is why didn't the exhaust shop tell the previous owner that squeezing down from 3" head pipes to 2-1/4" compression bent pipe isn't a good idea.
SO - if you've read this far my plans are to rebuild the engine when it goes, possibly a boost friendly cam (or the stock cam if it's in decent shape), and a front mount turbo kit. The whole point of this truck is to tow my camper and my Camaro wherever and whenever I want to go. I already have a hot rod in my 68 Camaro so I'm not interested in doing anything to make this truck unreliable in any way.
After reading all this does anyone have any input or suggestions?
Thanks,
GeoffP
07-25-2012, 07:08 AM
#3
Welcome to the site man, sometimes its slow in this section. If you have the tranny out being addressed then check into the rear main seal, if its bad now is the time to replace it when the trans is out. Sounds like some simple freshening up would do it good, replace the valve cover gaskets if they are leaking. Plugs, wires, clean Maf sensor and throttle body. (when cleaning MAF sensor, use MAF sensor cleaner and do not touch the sensor itself with anything other then when you spray it.)
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