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250shot on stock botom end w/ arp rod bolts and studded heads?

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Old 04-01-2009, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtychevy99
but what is being over looked it think is your springs i wouldnt do anything until i got a set of dual springs just talking from experiance there just safe and your talking about putting some power out
Valve springs aren't effected by N20 at all.
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Old 04-02-2009, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by LMSeven
Valve springs aren't effected by N20 at all.

x2 never seen a valve spring made pretty much too handle n2o since there not affected lol
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Old 04-02-2009, 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by whitegmc2002
A 500 shot on a stock bottom end i hope that was a joke.
His comment wasnt but he is.
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Old 04-03-2009, 06:53 PM
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Ive heard of changing pistons and rings for more n2o but not valve springs..
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Old 04-07-2009, 01:22 AM
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Originally Posted by nastychevelle
so i should do something like this

5.3
706 heads cut for ls6 valves valves (basically just cutting the intake for a 2" instead of 1.89")
arp rod bolts
arp head studs
LS1 intake,PP billet fuel rails, and ported TB
218/224 .550/.550 114
ls6 springs
tsp pushrods
LT's
Nitro Dave's 78mm plate
175 shot


and it will be SD tuned for e85

heres the HP numbers i came up with on each of my shots

175 shot should but me around 445hp to the wheels (556FWHP x .8 to acount for 20% drivetrain loss according to dynosim rounded up)


200 shot - 470hp (586FWHP x .8 to acount for 20% drivetrain loss according to dynosim rounded up)

250 shot - 510hp (636FWHP x .8 to acount for 20% drivetrain loss according to dynosim rounded up)


Well i dunno my buddy has a cam only ls1... with a 150shot it put down 530rwhp... You might not need as much of a shot as you think.

And you already have that cam? Considered anything a lil more aggresive? =p

And hell yes! Raise the compression! Nitrous + Compression = sex. =)
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Old 04-07-2009, 07:32 AM
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Originally Posted by sharky05
I'd leave the heads alone. I'm not to sure about this, but the added cylinder pressure added by the nitrous won't like the added compression. but thats just what I heard others will chime in.
opposite...nitrous loves higher compression. basically nitrous likes anything that a N/A motor runs better on.
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Old 04-07-2009, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by LMSeven
IMO progressive controllers are easier on parts.
easier on the drivetrain but harder on the solenoids....id rather cook a solenoid over a motor/tranny or rear end myself so i run progressive.
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Old 04-07-2009, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by TXsilverado
easier on the drivetrain but harder on the solenoids....id rather cook a solenoid over a motor/tranny or rear end myself so i run progressive.
Agreed, that's what I meant Solenoids are cheap.
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Old 04-07-2009, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by TXsilverado
easier on the drivetrain but harder on the solenoids....id rather cook a solenoid over a motor/tranny or rear end myself so i run progressive.
x2 on toasting a solenoid rather then my motor
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Old 04-07-2009, 06:48 PM
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haha... you ever think of cooking a fuel solenoid and burning down the motor because of it??

Got to take that into consideration! Stages are better. And if its a stock motor they reasonable to buy out the yard anyways.

Just put the nitrous on and spray away... put a lil money to the side for a rebuild and wait...

but with a 100-150 you prolly will spray it forever. Most kits seem to be rated at wheel Hp. The friend who put down 530 rwhp on the 150 made 380rwhp n/a
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