NITROUS OXIDE System Designs | Installation| Wet/Dry/Direct Port

going from wet to dry?

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Old 07-14-2010 | 12:42 AM
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Ok so right now i have a wet system with a Harris Speed Works plate and nitrous outlet noids. Controlled by a HSW microedge.

Ive been doing some reading up on dry systems being a bit better suited to a LSx based vehicle due to the fuel puddling issue. It cant be prevented due to the design of the intake runners, fuel falls out of the airstream because it is heavier than the air flowing threw it.

My question is, can i just get a T fitting to go on the out of my n2o noid and run 2 lines to my plate and just use 2 nitrous jets for a dry system? and of course eliminate the fuel noid.

Ive also read that its fine to run a dry system after the MAF but there is a unique way of tuning it, i still havnt researched that completly but i belive it is along the same lines of using the IAT mod but using ECT to alter the VE table to richen things up when comanded by using a switch to make the ECT read a value less than operating temp.


So what do yall think?
Old 07-14-2010 | 12:52 AM
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subing.
Old 07-14-2010 | 01:08 AM
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Old 07-14-2010 | 01:47 AM
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Tuning a dry shot after the MAF is going to be damn tricky. The fuel and the spray are made so that pcm doesn't have to make the injectors dump extra fuel, where the wet jets, are matted with the dry ones for the 2 spray-fuel to be efficient. I would stick with a wet shot, for ease of tuning, practicality..
Old 07-14-2010 | 01:59 AM
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I agree that tuning will be the biggest issue/challange.

Im more interested in the switch due to the "safeness" and simplicity of only using 1 noid and no chance of a fuel puddling backfire.

Hopefully the nitrous sponsors will chime in.
Old 07-14-2010 | 08:10 AM
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I would stick with your plate system. With the advance in N20 technology over the past few years with the design of plates and nozzles to better atomize the fuel, puddling is not as big of an issue as it once was, IMO. It also depends on the size of shot you are running. A 250 shot on a single nozzle could have some puddling issues but a 100 shot on a plate is likely not to have an issue.

If you do decide to switch to a dry shot, I would recomend ditching the plate and plumbing a nozzle or two before the maf. Tunning after the maf is going to be difficult on a street truck that runs mostly N/A. In a purpose built race application, it is easy but switching between N/A and N20 is going to be hard to do without actually reflashing the pcm. I ran a dry shot (pre-maf) for years an was very happy with it.
Old 07-14-2010 | 10:29 AM
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It shouldn't be "tricky" to tune. Couldn't you just richen up your PEmode accordingly while running the nitrous?
Old 07-14-2010 | 10:42 AM
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stick with the wet.
Old 07-14-2010 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Phantom
It shouldn't be "tricky" to tune. Couldn't you just richen up your PEmode accordingly while running the nitrous?
this is exactly how its done, it is done in speed density though.

You can use a switch to alter the reading on your Engine Coolent Temp sensor to a set number where you alter the table to suit it for nitrous.....kinda like using the Intake air temp to pull timing.

Im more than likley, if not 100% going to stay with my plate setup. But i want to explore options if i decided to go crazy with the shot when i build a motor.

Ive seen a 3 stage direct port and plate dry setup with a combined shot of 500+HP.
Old 07-14-2010 | 01:09 PM
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I run a dry system in my truck, the nozzle is mounted after the MAF and I use the Harris Speed Works Interface Controller to add the additional fuel through the injectors. I bought my kit as a wet system but decided to run a dry because I wanted to hide it as much as possible and ot have to worry about fuel puddling issues. I know everyone has their own opinions on which type of sysem is better but as long as everything is set up right, no one kit is better than another. I also went decided to mount my nozzle after the MAF because I have heard of people freezing the MAF and I didnt want to chance it.


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