Let's talk window switches and trans life
#1
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Let's talk window switches and trans life
I see alot of threads talking about window switches saving the transmissions. It seems that transmission companies, as well as users here are torn between if a transmission will last longer with a window switch. I just have to think about it like this........
1. If you're spraying through the shifts, you're getting a steady flow of power throughout the pass with only the initial shock of power at first nitrous activation. With the window switch, it seems you get several pretty hard hits throughout the pass after the shifts. It would seem these "shocks" to it would ultimately break more hard parts that the steady flow
2. Just how often do hard parts break? It seems the only reason people are using window switches is to take off the power at the shift. I personally have never blown a hard part at a shift. Mine has mainly been third gear clutches, which I wouldn't feel would be as relative to hard shifts, but more of a holding/heat issue(in which the window switch would have really held no benefit). Would hard parts(output shafts/sun shells) take a bigger shock releasing power before the shift then having them shocked with the gas or just during a harder shift?
3. I see no reason whatsoever to use a window switch for transmission purposes with a built transmission. If the transmission was built to handle the power output of your truck on the gas, then it should be able to hold the output throughout the pass, regardless of if its before a shift, during a shift, or after a shift.
4. If you have a truck making 500hp on motor, you aren't hitting a switch to turn off a few cylinders to give it half the hp before the shifts are you? Then why cut the hp with the nitrous?
Please everyone post up and lets get some responses out here to help the members out.
1. If you're spraying through the shifts, you're getting a steady flow of power throughout the pass with only the initial shock of power at first nitrous activation. With the window switch, it seems you get several pretty hard hits throughout the pass after the shifts. It would seem these "shocks" to it would ultimately break more hard parts that the steady flow
2. Just how often do hard parts break? It seems the only reason people are using window switches is to take off the power at the shift. I personally have never blown a hard part at a shift. Mine has mainly been third gear clutches, which I wouldn't feel would be as relative to hard shifts, but more of a holding/heat issue(in which the window switch would have really held no benefit). Would hard parts(output shafts/sun shells) take a bigger shock releasing power before the shift then having them shocked with the gas or just during a harder shift?
3. I see no reason whatsoever to use a window switch for transmission purposes with a built transmission. If the transmission was built to handle the power output of your truck on the gas, then it should be able to hold the output throughout the pass, regardless of if its before a shift, during a shift, or after a shift.
4. If you have a truck making 500hp on motor, you aren't hitting a switch to turn off a few cylinders to give it half the hp before the shifts are you? Then why cut the hp with the nitrous?
Please everyone post up and lets get some responses out here to help the members out.
#2
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i just use a window switch for engine safety.
if you break a drivetrain part, you don't want to hit the rev limiter (fuel cutoff) on these engines while still spraying nitrous.
if you break a drivetrain part, you don't want to hit the rev limiter (fuel cutoff) on these engines while still spraying nitrous.
#7
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Not that I know much about it, but how is a window switch any different from torque management?
Torque management retards timing to decrease power between shifts, and a window switch does the same thing.
And while I agree with the "shocking" your transmission thing, the truck is already in motion so the chances of breaking something isn't as great as launching at 4k rpms with slicks and spraying out of the hoel
Torque management retards timing to decrease power between shifts, and a window switch does the same thing.
And while I agree with the "shocking" your transmission thing, the truck is already in motion so the chances of breaking something isn't as great as launching at 4k rpms with slicks and spraying out of the hoel
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#8
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Originally Posted by RandomHero
And while I agree with the "shocking" your transmission thing, the truck is already in motion so the chances of breaking something isn't as great as launching at 4k rpms with slicks and spraying out of the hoel
#9
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Exactly......I see a ton of people knock out all of their tm, then turn around and put a window switch on it. Kinda cancels them out if you ask me.
I also agree, and most people set up there window switch at around 3000rpms, so if they're running an aftermarket converter, they're pretty much getting the big hit out of the hole as soon as they stomp the pedal anyways. A hand activated button is the best thing on the market for taking out the hard nitrous launch. I use one since I go to several different tracks and they all seem to let me hit the gas at different rpms/gears with drag radials. Although the et drags did take the guess work out of it(out the GATE!!!)
I also agree, and most people set up there window switch at around 3000rpms, so if they're running an aftermarket converter, they're pretty much getting the big hit out of the hole as soon as they stomp the pedal anyways. A hand activated button is the best thing on the market for taking out the hard nitrous launch. I use one since I go to several different tracks and they all seem to let me hit the gas at different rpms/gears with drag radials. Although the et drags did take the guess work out of it(out the GATE!!!)
#10
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A window switch is not intended to save drive line parts. It first goal is to not allow nitrous to spray below X rpm, its 2nd goal is not let nitrous spray above an X rpm.
IF you are having slight traction problem then a first gear lock out or delay window switch is needed.
Now the first part of the WS. Not below X rpm, usually 3000 but can be set lower. IF you ever seen someone hit the nitrous off idle you know why this one is important. Intake will backfire if nitrous is introduced at to low or an RPM.
2nd goal. You hit the rev limited and nitrous you could loose a piston real quick. Limiters usually pull fuel away first then timing.
Now if you shift at 6000 rpm set the hi side for 5900 or even 6000 this will allow the nitrous to turn off for a fraction of a second, if you are worried about a tranny. THE NORM is to set 200rpms before the rev limiter set point.
If you are planning to use a push botton make sure it is in series with a WOT switch. In the event your vehicle gets squirelly BAD you will lift off the pedal, but your hand is not going to let go of anything, your trying to keep the vehicle from a wall, ditch, another car etc. So please put it in series.
btw we have a bad *** window switch.
later
IF you are having slight traction problem then a first gear lock out or delay window switch is needed.
Now the first part of the WS. Not below X rpm, usually 3000 but can be set lower. IF you ever seen someone hit the nitrous off idle you know why this one is important. Intake will backfire if nitrous is introduced at to low or an RPM.
2nd goal. You hit the rev limited and nitrous you could loose a piston real quick. Limiters usually pull fuel away first then timing.
Now if you shift at 6000 rpm set the hi side for 5900 or even 6000 this will allow the nitrous to turn off for a fraction of a second, if you are worried about a tranny. THE NORM is to set 200rpms before the rev limiter set point.
If you are planning to use a push botton make sure it is in series with a WOT switch. In the event your vehicle gets squirelly BAD you will lift off the pedal, but your hand is not going to let go of anything, your trying to keep the vehicle from a wall, ditch, another car etc. So please put it in series.
btw we have a bad *** window switch.
later