So, finally I got my all my nitrous stuff installed on my truck, I have a wideband controller that cuts off my nitrous if it goes outside the user designated parameters for air fuel ratio.

So my first question is what would be a good # for the rich and lean cutoffs, at WOT it likes to run in the low 13- mid 12 range at one point it hits 12.00 when it shifts to second but comes back up (this is N/A).

And now for my second question at what RPMs should I end my nitrous? At 1st gear shifts at aprox. 5600 and second shifts at aprox 5200 I heard that I should set it from 3000-6000 but would that mean that it sprays through the gears?

 

You'll get many different answers on both those questions.

We've always tuned for around 12.8 to 13:1 for nitrous. The ONLY TRUE way to tune for nitrous is to read your plugs and see what the motor wants

when to set the ceiling for your nitrous. Some people say shut it off a couple hundred rpm before the shift so as not to spray through the shifts. Others says that shock when the nitrous comes back on is actually harder on parts than spraying through shifts. I've always sprayed through shifts. Research and experiment and see what you feel comfortable with. Enjoy!

 

Hi there,

I haven't got any ideas, but I was wondering if you ever got a solution
as I would like to do the same thing. Cheers!

 

I personally shoot for a 12.4-12.7 A/F on the nitrous.I love to see some peoples face when they here that.I know Alot of people run 11.5 A/F or so on the nitrous,but I personally do not.IMO,keep a close eye on your plugs after a nitrous pass.look for any pepper looking specs on top part of the porcelain,if you have these pepper looking specs,you have some detonation,as we all know detonation is your engines worst enemy.Keep a close eye on the advance and A/F and look at the plugs.Also pay close attention to the base of the porcelain to make sure it is not to lean or to rich.The base can be hard to see,I cut the threads off my plugs to look at the base of the porcelain.
This is how I do it,some may do it differently!!

 

Yeah, I'm a little shocked at those suggested AFRs. In my LS1 GTO, I run 12.5-12.8 N/A, but try to stay about 11.5-11.8 on nitrous for safety.

I shut my nitrous down with the window switch 200 rpm before the shifts, but my 1-2 and 2-3 shift rpm is the same. I've already replaced one tranny, don't want to trash a second one. Unless you reprogram your shifts, you'll probably have to at least spray through the 2-3 shift. Try a compromise and set it to shut down at 5400 rpm.

 

That is a pretty big swing in AFR, you might to address that before messing around with the sauce... If that is what your commanding then i guess that is OK, but if your commanding say 12.5 and your getting 13.2 then i would think you have some tuning to do.... Just my .02, i have no input on the nitrous stuff cause i have never had the pleasure of running it

 

i have a 06 GTO with the zex kit, i was spraying a 150 shot, i kept my afr as close as possible to 12.0 or lower, too much higher i figured was too lean, but everyone is different. like mentioned above, just watch your plugs very, VERY close. as for timing, i did it pretty much by the book, i retarded 2 degrees for every 50 hp of nitrous. just put you kit on the lowest setting it can go, time it how you want, take a pass, watch your afr, come back and check your plugs and see what your motor is telling you... check for the PEPPER (nice wording Wheatley) effect and make your best guess as to what you should do in reguards to timing and enrichment... good luck

 

It won't hurt anything spraying trough the shifts.

 

If the transmission is not built by a good quality builder then spraying through the shifts will end up causing failure.This is not the nitrous Oxides fault,the nitrous and additional fuel does what it is suppost to do,make more tq,increased tq will end up putting a hurt to a stock 60E transmission.You have to pay to play.The harder you want it to run,the more money it will cost.Thats just how it is.
I would also recommend a 10x magnifying glass made for spark plugs with an internal light.I use mine all the time,works very well.this is a must IMO,but then again not everyone has ever used this,I personally like to.

 

running it to fat is just as bad as running it to lean...