LMSeven

iTrader: (3)

Well every thing's been done for a while. Yesterday I turned on the bottle for the first time to find and fix leaks. Today I wanted to make sure everything was working before I scheduled a dyno tune. Well I disconnected the intake tube from the throttle body, as I don't want to spray and not know my A/F ratio or timing, and had my buddy who helped install check and see if it sprayed when I hit the gas/wot switch. Well it didn't. I don't know if you have to be in gear for it to spray, I don't see why you would or how it would be dangerous with the nozzle spraying into mid air. Anyways I have a few suspected reasons.

1. MSD said I wanted to use the pink wire on any coil for a RPM signal. I've read on here not to use the pink, black, or brown wires, which leaves the purple wire, which doesn't work either. I tried.

2. The BMN window switch. Well HSW doesn't sell it anymore, BMN didn't have a phone number last time I checked, and now they don't have a website. Well in their instructions they want you to splice a wire that goes from the window box to the brake light power line. My guess is it's a fail safe that kills the system when you hit the brakes. Well my buddy wired it into a source that has constant power in acc. and while the truck is on. IDK why he did that. That's my main guess as to why it's not working, as it's constantly getting power and the box is seeing it as "the brakes are on, don't spray." I guess if I hook up that wire to the brake power wire and it still doesn't work I need to find a garounteed tach signal, which I understand to be the white wire going into the tach, or the pin #10 white wire coming off the PCM.

3. I was a tired jackass today and it won't spray when it's not in gear and I need to get more sleep. I guess if thats the case I'll hook up the stock PCM tomorrow and let her eat a 75 shot on factory timing and A/F. If that doesn't work bypass the window switch, if that doesn't work curse at the performance gods, hate life, and start from scratch.

On the bright side the purge and bottle heater work. Any thoughts? Anyone else using this BMN window switch?

Here's pics since someone will ask anyways. All the interior is in, all the wires are in wire loom or whatever you want to call it and the wires in the interior are hidden, the purge is hooked up, and no drilling was required, just some dremeling of the interior plastic by the cab vent. Alls I need to do is fix this bug, and get a pipe bender to route my blow down tube out of the cab vent and down to the ground. I'll get some finished pics tomorrow if it quits raining, these are really crappy.

2002C5COUPE

iTrader: (3)

lol..


1. I mounted my window switch inside the cab, so i got the tach signal from a wire behind the instrument cluster. I believe it is a white one on the plug going into the back of it.

2. I've never heard of a window switch having a wire that hooks up to the brakes. I might not even hook that up if it were me.

Just make sure you test it. Disconnect the fuel line from the plate, and with the nitrous bottle CLOSED, get a buddy to hold the fuel line and make sure the solenoid opens when it is supposed to.

LMSeven

iTrader: (3)

My window switch is mounted inside the cab too, I'll look into getting a different tach signal. I'm pretty sure we tested it with the wire thats supposed to go to the brakes disconnected. I'm also going to check my FPSS and see what it's set at.

TXsilverado

iTrader: (19)

window switch huh???

was the truck running when you tried this? was the window switch turned off? if the window switch has no rpm to go off of it will not activate the dope.

LMSeven

iTrader: (3)

Yes

No

WFOsierra

iTrader: (1)

Your getting the signal from the wrong wire on the coil pack. Look on the passenger side coil packs. There is one main plug in the middle of the four coil packs. you wanna splice into the Green with White stripe wire. This is a sure place to get your tach signal. Its alot easier then splicing in the white wire going to the PCM and I didnt wanna mess with all those wires...I ran power in to a toggle switch and on the other side of the switch i ran to the control box (BMN box) and nother out to the Nitrous system relay. The control box should supply the ground to the relay, so you wire the ground out of the control box out to the FPSS and then to activation wire of the relay should be yellow...

LMSeven

iTrader: (3)

Are the wires the same colors on the coils/plug in? I know the dash wires are different colors from NBS to NNBS. But yes the box is grounded to the fpps. I just went out and checked out the window switch, and it's getting constant power. It has a red, yellow, and green light inside. The red light is always on, and the yellow light comes on in accessory mode and when the truck is on.

edit: the instructions say connect to a negative wire on the coil.

WFOsierra

iTrader: (1)

that would be the Green with white stripe wire on the main plug in the middle, they are the same for all model trucks. my buddie 03 is the same setup...

WFOsierra

iTrader: (1)

were did you get that tube for the blow off that runs through to the bottom of the cab

LowBlack99

iTrader: (3)

You could also make a jumper wire to bypass and find which wire is hooked up wrong. Then find proper place for wire to go.