fordtoughwCHEVYstuff

Long story short, I totalled my '12 Mustang in July so I picked the truck up in August and the 2.2L isnt cutting it anymore. I figured I have enough pics to start my build thread so here goes.

Truck




P1SC off my Mustang












Luckily I found this before I bolted the Edelbrock intake down...















4L80E being converted to full manual valvebody







scored a 280$ polished ev pro carb hat for 150$ needs to be hit with a polishing wheel to bring back the shine so itll look good

fordtoughwCHEVYstuff

my first attempt at polishing the timing cover and bringing the EV pro hat back to life... i also polished the steam vent tubes but didnt take a pic of them...













got a lot done but havent had time to get on and upload the pics


polished the timing cover but you cant really see it with the acessories bolted on.

fordtoughwCHEVYstuff

modifying the stock 4.8 windage tray because im a cheap bastard...









good score on an f-body pan and pickup



good thing im getting some harland sharp roller rockers and new valve springs





If you run sandersons headers on an 05 4.8L this will need to be ground down to clear the passengers side headers






Rewired the MSD 6010 harness since I didn’t like all the excess
Before






After











Made a little room incase i need to take the pump back off on the truck by knocking the head of the bolt down a little








F**K! $15.99 down the drain...








Thinking outside the box to get the pulley on far enough to line up.






Good insurance to clear the steering gear box since the motor is on the stand



As it sits now

billetproof97'

Looks good. But you do know you will need to notch your frame alot with that f body oil pan... I would suggest getting a hummer oil pan or ls2 oil pan. They are smaller and you will only need to notch the frame a little to none with these pans. Chevrolet S-10 Forum - The Largest Chevy S-Series enthusiast site : s10forum.com can help you out as well. Im sure there are a couple guys from there on here including me

fordtoughwCHEVYstuff

how so? after looking at the LS2 pan they seem near identical. with the exception of it being a touch thicker on the front side of the pan. i have searched but cant find any good pics of why it would need to be clearanced much more... i have an extreme and am worried about the H3 pan hanging down too low.

TXsilverado

iTrader: (19)

i used H3 pan on my build and it barely fits without any notching. i've also heard of those plastic dorman pulleys coming apart at high RPM. i'm just going to full manual steering to get around the PS pump clearance issue.

fordtoughwCHEVYstuff

how is the ground clearance with the H3 pan? i dont mind notching and have the tools and resources to do so for the f body pan i already have. as ground clearance is the only concern how will the holley swap pan or the LS2 pan compare? ive searched for thsi but have no definitive answer on whats best... keep in mind i have an xtreme that is going to stay at the factory ride height.

billetproof97'

Here ya go... Just read it. It will help you decide if you want to keep the fbody one or switch. The reading is worth it. Also look at the swap list. It will help you out as well. It will make your swap easier. Hope this helps

LS engine oil pans - all of them - S-10 Forum

http://www.s10forum.com/forum/f213/l...mation-390967/

fordtoughwCHEVYstuff

so after reading the LS oil pan thread all i got from it was that an H3 pan fits the best but still hangs below the crossmember by an inch... after looking at some pics would putting a 3/8" thick steel plate below the motor mount and adding a piece of steel thats 5/8" thick to the bottom of the crossmemeberbe the best route to take so if i were to bottom out it would hit before the pan did?

billetproof97'

I highly doubt you will bottom out with the pan. But you could make a skid plate just for peace of mind. Switch to some v6 drop springs and new shocks and you should be good. Or go with afcos coilovers or qa1's coil overs