Thanks man!

Starting to wittle down my list of odds and ends that need to be done...

I took a little bit of time and drilled and tapped manifold for the pyro... got it all hooked up and working.






Doesn't stand out too much...


Wont know how hot things are getting til I get to put some miles on it... we'll see soon.

Also got the reluctor wheel done and my spacer came in... it pays to have a machinist in the family... trued everything up and punched my hole pattern... should work.








Hoping to bolt it up and build the bracket for the stock cps this weekend... hopefully that will get my tach working.

Anyways... more to come.
-Chris

 

looks awesome so far!! Any other fuel system plans to support more power?

Make sure you have the air gap on the reluctor wheel and sensor right.

 

As far as fuel goes... I want it to burn clean so only planning on fueling enough to reach the boost level I want.. anymore then that (aka "rolling coal") is just a waste of fuel and comes with a cost of high EGTs.

Currently I have no problem hitting 20psi with the hx30w... when I add the 35 to it... I'll probably add a fuel pin and some more pump tweaking to help light the 35.. or perhaps an hx40... hmmm...

Anyways... Update!

Tach and speedo now work beautifully... Speedo ended up being me not paying attention when cutting the stock harness apart... I clipped the VSS signal feeds... thankfully I planned ahead just for this reason and left 6"+ pigtails from the ecu plugs on every line I clipped. Got it hooked back up and working good which fixed my "Brake" warning and "ABS" warning lights and messages on the DIC

Here are some pics of the tone ring and cps mount... which I plan on changing... just had to figure out how it was going to work. I'll fab up the finished mount sometime this week.

Stock pulley...


Crank spacer and reluctor mounted...


1st mount position... would have worked nicely but the CPS didn't have enough angle to it (cps sensor is angled slightly from the factory... just not enough)


Moved it to the left 1 bolt hole and it worked perfect position wise... now I just need to make the mount wider to use both front oil pan bolts. I'm also going to pick up some longer bolts so I can space the bracket down instead of spacing the cps away from the bracket... should be pretty easy to knock out tomorrow or Tuesday.


Anywho... I do see a difference between the 60e and 80e now... Previously, at 70mph I was only turning 1800rpm or so... Now I'm turning just over 2k rpm...

The 60e has a .70 overdrive where the 80e has a .75

Sucks to gain the rpm but the gain in strength is well worth it... not sure if that will negatively effect mileage in the long run.. Might have to step up a size in rubber down the road to cure that

Well... more to come soon... need to get ahold of black bear performance to tune the stock ecu and shut off all the warning codes that are engine/trans related.

-Chris

 

Nice.. yea the 4th gear ratio will get you but it does help for pulling loads if you have a under powered gas engine

 

I love this build

 

Hey guys...

Heading to the junk yard tomorrow in search of a 2500hd intercooler... hopefully I'll find what I'm looking for...

In the mean time... Ive been tinkering...

I started a switch panel and engraved it at work today... it turned out pretty slick.. which btw I've got access to the engraver at anytime and have aluminum laying around.. so if someone wanted something custom done... well.. anyways..











And this is where it will go when its finished...


Waiting to order switches to fill it... I also have since blacked out the engraving so everything is very clear to read... should turn out pretty slick when I'm done...

Thinking about filling it with these...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/160996433689...84.m1439.l2649

Blue LED toggles with carbon fiber covers... I think it would look pretty good and be functional

Anyways... more to come soon
-Chris

 

Looks badass. Might hit ya up later for something

 

So how much can I buy this rig off of you for when you're done?

 

Considered an air/water cooler? Much easier to package.

 

Lol... I'd sell if I could come out covering the cost of an '07 or newer body style to drop a 24 valve in...

As for air to water... I've got one already... its the large trapezoid looking piece that the turbo is plumbed into... factory from cummins. It gets its water from the engine cooling system though and once its at operating temp, you can fee a power difference (drop).

Not worried about fitting the intercooler.. Ive got plenty of room to move the radiator back towards the engine a few inches and fab up new lower mounts for it... as long as the intercooler outlets will clear the radiator.

We'll see I suppose
-Chris