2000 Chevy Silverado project "Charlie Murphy"
#351
Do those C clips have a groove worn in them?
Hard to tell if its just wear or a groove. If it is a grove, Swing by the dealership and order another set. There only a few dollars unlike alot of vendors trying to sell them for like $25 each. Last time I paid just under $5 each. I am sure they have gone up some but can imagine them being more than $10 each
This should be the part number and I believe they are sold over the counter as singles. 14012746 -Axle C-clip
14012746 GM 9.5 14 Bolt C Clip - DriveTrain America
Hard to tell if its just wear or a groove. If it is a grove, Swing by the dealership and order another set. There only a few dollars unlike alot of vendors trying to sell them for like $25 each. Last time I paid just under $5 each. I am sure they have gone up some but can imagine them being more than $10 each
This should be the part number and I believe they are sold over the counter as singles. 14012746 -Axle C-clip
14012746 GM 9.5 14 Bolt C Clip - DriveTrain America
Hey, maybe you know this. What gear oil do I need for this rear end? I was thinking it was 75-90 GL-5 synthetic. Do I need a friction modifier?
Not really. More than anything I used the clamp so that I could put a specific amount of pressure on it, to position the axle shaft in just the right spot so I can pull the C clip out. When I was doing it by hand it had a tendency to push back outward and made it difficult to pull the C clip out. The clamp in that picture isn't very tight at all.
#353
Today I pulled my truck into the garage and got to work. There's a lot of little things to disconnect when dropping the rear end. I found out it's easier to disconnect the parking brake cable under the driver's side door than at the brakes themselves.
After several hours, it's all disconnected.
I pulled it out where I could get a good look at it. Compared to the AXN 14 bolt, it's very similar. It looks like that backing plates will be clocked differently and the brake lines are different. The 10 bolt rear has a mounting bracket where the brake lines T together. On the 14 bolt that T is above the differential. On the 10 bolt it's above the driver's side shock mount.
I ran out of time, but it doesn't look like it'll be much of a problem to swap the disc brakes over and get everything installed. After that, I need to drop the transfercase and fix a leaky seal.
#354
I opened up the 10 bolt so I could remove the C clips. Snapped a quick pic to compare to the 9.5" 14 bolt.
I measured both axle shafts. I took a pic of each measure where the shaft changed size. The 10 bolt shafts change size 7 times and the 9.5" 14 bolt, 4 times.
I won't post pics of the 10 bolt because there's 7 of them and that would take a lot of space. Here's a compilation of the 4 different sizes on the larger 9.5" 14 bolt.
I removed all the brake hardware from the 10 bolt and bolted it onto the AXN axle. The only difference is that the flange appears to be clocked 45° differently.
Here you can see the brakes back plate bolted on with the inner drum brake.
Here's the disc in place. Everything went one easy-peasy. I wasn't sure which direction to actually clock the brakes, so I went upward. I hope it doesn't interfere with the leaf springs. We'll see.
You can also see in the above picture that I put the brake lines on. The disc brake lines will bolt up everywhere except where the 2 sides meet and connect to the line that goes to the booster. On the drum brake setup, that line is above the differential. On the disc brake setup, that line has a mount welded on the axle tube. I'm not sure how I'll solve that one. I'll have to think about it.
Next I rolled in into place. Then I ran out of time.
Now I just have to get everything bolted back up then figure out what I'm going to do for a driveline. Either a hybrid u-joint or maybe a driveline from a 3/4 ton truck? I'm not sure yet.
I measured both axle shafts. I took a pic of each measure where the shaft changed size. The 10 bolt shafts change size 7 times and the 9.5" 14 bolt, 4 times.
I won't post pics of the 10 bolt because there's 7 of them and that would take a lot of space. Here's a compilation of the 4 different sizes on the larger 9.5" 14 bolt.
I removed all the brake hardware from the 10 bolt and bolted it onto the AXN axle. The only difference is that the flange appears to be clocked 45° differently.
Here you can see the brakes back plate bolted on with the inner drum brake.
Here's the disc in place. Everything went one easy-peasy. I wasn't sure which direction to actually clock the brakes, so I went upward. I hope it doesn't interfere with the leaf springs. We'll see.
You can also see in the above picture that I put the brake lines on. The disc brake lines will bolt up everywhere except where the 2 sides meet and connect to the line that goes to the booster. On the drum brake setup, that line is above the differential. On the disc brake setup, that line has a mount welded on the axle tube. I'm not sure how I'll solve that one. I'll have to think about it.
Next I rolled in into place. Then I ran out of time.
Now I just have to get everything bolted back up then figure out what I'm going to do for a driveline. Either a hybrid u-joint or maybe a driveline from a 3/4 ton truck? I'm not sure yet.
#357
My driveline is a tiny bit too long. Boo!
I'm still debating how I'm going to handle this. I was planning on running a conversion u-joint but now I'm leaning towards building a new driveline with 1350 u-joints.
I took this pic because I thought it was funny how the driveline is nearly horizontal due to lowering the truck.
I hate dropping the transfercase. It's heavy, awkward and slippery. Anywho, I finally got it out.
Next I need to get it taken apart so I can replace the back half. Once I get that fixed and bleed the brakes, I can drive this beast again. Woot!
I'm still debating how I'm going to handle this. I was planning on running a conversion u-joint but now I'm leaning towards building a new driveline with 1350 u-joints.
I took this pic because I thought it was funny how the driveline is nearly horizontal due to lowering the truck.
I hate dropping the transfercase. It's heavy, awkward and slippery. Anywho, I finally got it out.
Next I need to get it taken apart so I can replace the back half. Once I get that fixed and bleed the brakes, I can drive this beast again. Woot!