iregret

iTrader: (4)

Did a little bit of logging today.

Here's a video:


Check this out. I got the videos side by side. You can see how the LQ4 is a tiny bit faster than the LM7.

WOT 4L80E Swap Yank 3000 Stall Silverado 5.3L (LM7-Stock) vs. WOT 4L80E Swap Yank 3000 Stall Silverado 6.0L (LQ4-LS6 cam) by VJ metwono | YouTube Doubler | Mashup Helper

Here is a log that goes with the video:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...aul%20mode.hpl

Cold start up and then drive until up to temperature:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...0to%20temp.hpl

Driving home:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...trol%20set.hpl

Here’s the tune I was running:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...LQ4%20swap.hpt

I haven’t had time to decipher any of these logs yet. I have homework I need to be doing but hopefully it’ll give me something to do in my free time.

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

You are out of injector/pump by ~5300rpm and are probably going lean causing the engine to knock, might want to fix that before getting on it...

iregret

iTrader: (4)

Thanks for taking a look Atomic. I appreciate it.

I still haven't taken the time to look the logs over and try to decipher them. I have 2 books to help me learn how to tune.

One is the Master EFI Tuner by Dan Maslic and the other is Engine Management: Advanced Tuning by Greg Banish.

It's been a few years since I've read them, but I think I prefer the Master EFI Tuner book. Another thing that's pretty awesome is that it's now available online for FREE!

EFI Tutorials: Learn how to tune EFI

Luckily, the truck isn't my daily driver so there's no pressure to rush through tuning. I just started back at school, so unfortunately the truck goes on the back burner again. I'm an engineering major so school really does take quite a great deal of my time. That, and my truck doesn't live at home with me. It's out at my parents place where the shop and all my tools are. It's an hour drive to go out there from my house, 1/2 hour from school.

I'm hoping when I have moments where I'm caught up, I can get into tuning. It's something that I've wanted to do for several years.

I PM'd you a while back about fuel pumps, so I'm square there. I have the Walbro 400 and a few years ago I bought some FIC 60lb injectors. I'll focus on what it takes to swap in the injectors and get them tuned.

One thing that is confusing to me...

Other than the LS6 camshaft, which is a very mild cam anyway, this engine is essentially stock. The injectors are the same ones that would have been on the LQ4 from the factory. The tune is a factory tune from a 2000 Silverado.

The part I don't get is how is it running out of fuel? If everything is stock, shouldn't it be basically driving like it would from the factory or is the cam making the difference?

iregret

iTrader: (4)

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

Part of the problem is your LTFT, its at 20% which is way wrong. I disable LTFTs on mine because it carries into PE whereas the STFTs dont. Do you have a wideband?

George C....

Wideband doesnt match your narrowbands....narrowbands NA should be 880-910
And youre reading 820 which is lean
910 is around low 12s and 880 is around 13.0

Jeebalow

iTrader: (3)

Finals are over right? Is the truck done?

iregret

iTrader: (4)

One more week. Calculus final on Monday, Java final on Wednesday. Then I'll be working on my truck until I go back. Next term I took fewer classes so hopefully I'll have more time for my truck.

Jeebalow

iTrader: (3)

Ah, ok got dead week and finals week mixed up. Good luck sir. You'll be done before you know it.

iregret

iTrader: (4)

I spent several hours today learning and experimenting with tuning. What little tuning I’ve done in the past has sort of went out the window since VCM Scanner/Editor 3.0 came out. I did a lot of research when I bought HPTuners years ago, but have since forgotten most of that information.

I’ve read that the best way to do tuning is on a dyno. With a dyno, it’s possible to get quality steady state readings. First off, I barely know what I’m doing so if I were to rent some dyno time, I would likely waste it anyway. Secondly, I’m AWD, so I can’t use a conventional dyno anyway. A few years back, I contacted a shop about 60 miles away that specializes in tuning Subarus. At the time, they told me that if I could fit my truck on their dyno, they’d let me rent some time. Until I get some experience, I’m not going to worry myself about dyno time.

First I wanted to setup a “Graph” in HPTuners to tell me what percentage I’m off of Air/Fuel ratio, and MAF.

For the Air/Fuel Error, I selected AFR Error [Math]. Then for the 2 axes (yes axes is plural of axis ) Engine Speed [Sensor] and Manifold Absolute Pressure [Sensor].



For MAF, select the same AFR Error [Math] and then add Mass Air Flow Frequency [Sensor].



You’re also going to have to head over to the editor and copy the column or row labels and paste them into the graph display.

Next, I forced open loop through the VCM Scanner.
-Closed loop off
-Fuel trim learning off
-Reset fuel trims

With it in open loop, I did my best to fill all the cells with data. Luckily, I was out at my parents place in the middle of nowhere, so it’s easy to make several runs. I sat in park and revved up slowly, filling the cells. Then, I power braked and revved up, filling the cells. Finally, I made a few slow passes, keeping the truck in second gear.

After I got what useful data I could, I compared it to the factory and adjusted accordingly. I repeated the process several times trying to get as close as possible. Parts of the MAF were up to 18% off, while others were -4% off. I slowly adjusted the frequency a few percent at a time, but even though I tried several times, I couldn’t get it quite right. The log is still reporting -2-3% off. Maybe I’ll try again later? As far as the MAF is concerned, the only thing that's changed is a cold air intake with a cone filter.

I probably shouldn’t have moved forward until the MAF frequency is dialed in perfectly, but I wanted to keep experimenting and learning. When I was reading about VE tuning, I read that you should copy the Spark Advance High Octane table over to the Low Octane table because once the ECU realizes that the MAF has failed, it’ll go to the safest tune. Under Engine Diagnostic, I changed the MAF Fail High setting from 14000 to 0. Also, changed DTC to MIL on first error. Even though I did this, the check engine light never came on. This is why I wasn’t sure if I had done it correctly. That being said, the MAF “Channel” wasn’t reporting anything.

Same process as before. Several runs trying to fill all the cells. This proved to be much more difficult, but I did my best. The VE tables were only off around 4% here and there. I was expecting more due to the Z06 camshaft I swapped in with the LQ4.

When I went to copy the octane tables, I discovered that my tables were already the same. This is a bit worrisome. Doesn't the knock sensor use the 2 tables for the LTFT?

I headed to HPTuner’s site and found a stock tune from a 2004 LQ4 Silverado and compared it to my tune. I ended up copying over the spark tables and a few other things. For the most part, the tunes were very similar. I know when I swapped the LQ4, I modified the tune for the 6.0L but I’m not sure what tune I used, or why I wouldn’t have copied high and low tables.

Here’s the tune:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0ogcyomrj4...0tune.hpt?dl=0

Here’s the logs:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/j8wz87jhip...lmart.hpl?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/99r336qs3f...0home.hpl?dl=0

After tuning, my LTFT's seem to be around 9%. That's better than 20%, but what should it be reporting realistically? I'm guessing 0% is ideal, but I'm not exactly sure what to manipulate to get the LTFT under control. Do you disable yours just for tuning, or permanently? I'm still very new to this, so I have a lot of researching to do.

Why are my reading so far off and what did I do to cause them to bounce around so much? Are they supposed to bounce around that much? I have a lot more learning to do.


Going in, I knew that there is fueling issues in the upper rpm range. I have a Walbro 400 fuel pump and 60lb injectors waiting to be installed. I figured, it’d be easier to learn to tune with the factory injectors. I’ll keep reading and learning, but installing the 60lb injectors are next, then fuel pump I guess. Honestly, I’m a bit concerned about the fuel system. My original plan was to run the Areomotive 340, but since purchasing it years ago, people have had bad luck with it. Now, with the Walbro 400, I’m concerned that the factory regulator will be overpowered. I’m not above running eBay fuel rails, but I haven’t looked into adapting fuel rails to factory fuel lines or what regulator I would need to run.