2000 Chevy Silverado project "Charlie Murphy"
#71
So the silicone did a better job of holding the tweeter mounts in than I thought it would. It really feels solid. I was only putting these here temporarily. I think I may just keep them siliconed in. I'll probably paint them though.
In case you were wondering why I put them on this way.
The tweeters have to be located there and I happened to have silicone on hand.
I started messing around with the 4" driver. I haven't put a lot of thought into how I was going to mount it down exactly. I thought maybe I could use butyl rubber or even silicone them in. Then it occurred to me that I could mount them down as if they were flush. Duh! So I got the grinder out and clearanced the end cap a little.
Next, I soldered the wire on.
Then I mounted everything down. It may not be very pretty but it'll work. I actually used foam to seal the speaker to the cup.
Soldered the wire to 6" driver.
Put everything back together.
It looks like nothing's there! Woohoo! You can't see the tweeters when the doors are closed so they're pretty hidden. Plus I'm going to experiment with painting them pewter to match.
After that, I did it all over again on the passenger's side. I don't think I'll have any free time to work in the truck for about 4 days, but I'll try.
I'm wanting to finish running the power wires and start fabbing up where I'm going to mount the amplifiers.
In case you were wondering why I put them on this way.
The tweeters have to be located there and I happened to have silicone on hand.
I started messing around with the 4" driver. I haven't put a lot of thought into how I was going to mount it down exactly. I thought maybe I could use butyl rubber or even silicone them in. Then it occurred to me that I could mount them down as if they were flush. Duh! So I got the grinder out and clearanced the end cap a little.
Next, I soldered the wire on.
Then I mounted everything down. It may not be very pretty but it'll work. I actually used foam to seal the speaker to the cup.
Soldered the wire to 6" driver.
Put everything back together.
It looks like nothing's there! Woohoo! You can't see the tweeters when the doors are closed so they're pretty hidden. Plus I'm going to experiment with painting them pewter to match.
After that, I did it all over again on the passenger's side. I don't think I'll have any free time to work in the truck for about 4 days, but I'll try.
I'm wanting to finish running the power wires and start fabbing up where I'm going to mount the amplifiers.
#72
Well I got my fancy-pants terminals on. LOL. I hooked up the positive side. It has a 10 gauge wire that powers a distribution block and the 2 gauge wire to 200 amp circuit breaker for the amplifiers. I also ran another 4 gauge ground to the chassis. Part of the "big 3" upgrade.
I found a spot that I think will work as a grounding point. It's directly to the right of the gas pedal and has a plastic thing that clips on it to make it pretty. So I sanded off all of the paint and used a star washer.
Here's the board I mentioned earlier. The mounting points for all the distribution blocks.
You can see here how it's hidden underneath the center console.
There's the cup holders that hide it.
I wanted to show you guys how the box fits into the center console. If it weren't for the center console and seats from an extended can truck, I would have never been able to fit the IDMAX.
Next up, I need to figure out an amp rack. I need to put the seats back in to take measurements. I was planning on mounting to the sub box, but I think I can squeeze them in at the base of the seats.
I'm waiting on 10 gauge wire to show up for the PQ10s. Hopefully on my weekend I might get the amp mounts designed.
I found a spot that I think will work as a grounding point. It's directly to the right of the gas pedal and has a plastic thing that clips on it to make it pretty. So I sanded off all of the paint and used a star washer.
Here's the board I mentioned earlier. The mounting points for all the distribution blocks.
You can see here how it's hidden underneath the center console.
There's the cup holders that hide it.
I wanted to show you guys how the box fits into the center console. If it weren't for the center console and seats from an extended can truck, I would have never been able to fit the IDMAX.
Next up, I need to figure out an amp rack. I need to put the seats back in to take measurements. I was planning on mounting to the sub box, but I think I can squeeze them in at the base of the seats.
I'm waiting on 10 gauge wire to show up for the PQ10s. Hopefully on my weekend I might get the amp mounts designed.
#75
I started trying to figure out where I'm going to mount 4 amplifiers and an MS-8.
I had thought the MS-8 would fit under the seat. Well, it can not. It would if I still had the manual seats, but when I changed over to power seats I lost most of my under seat room. All those motors are in the way. Ugh.
So I started measuring clearance, and there's not much. None actually. The goal was to move the seat all the way back and recline the seats until the head rests touch the rear window.
I ended up mounting the amps where I had imagined them.
First I made something to mount them to.
I had to do something because the amps are wider than the box is. It's because of how the plastic interior panels are shaped.
I covered the panel in carpet and mounted the amplifiers.
Repeat for the passengers side.
So since the end of the amplifier hangs over a bit I made a piece for the screw to grab into so everything is solid.
I did the same thing for the other side as well.
I know I'm a weirdo and mounted my amps upside down. Not many people will ever see them and it's a lot easer to get to fuses, gains, connectors and all that.
Now I need to figure out where to mount the MS-8 and then start hooking stuff up and building RCAs.
I had thought the MS-8 would fit under the seat. Well, it can not. It would if I still had the manual seats, but when I changed over to power seats I lost most of my under seat room. All those motors are in the way. Ugh.
So I started measuring clearance, and there's not much. None actually. The goal was to move the seat all the way back and recline the seats until the head rests touch the rear window.
I ended up mounting the amps where I had imagined them.
First I made something to mount them to.
I had to do something because the amps are wider than the box is. It's because of how the plastic interior panels are shaped.
I covered the panel in carpet and mounted the amplifiers.
Repeat for the passengers side.
So since the end of the amplifier hangs over a bit I made a piece for the screw to grab into so everything is solid.
I did the same thing for the other side as well.
I know I'm a weirdo and mounted my amps upside down. Not many people will ever see them and it's a lot easer to get to fuses, gains, connectors and all that.
Now I need to figure out where to mount the MS-8 and then start hooking stuff up and building RCAs.
#76
Here's a little proof that I actually did start building kick panels. I changed my mind after changing to a center console and deciding on using an MS-8.
Check out the difference between the alternators. The stock 105 amp is on the right, my aftermarket 235 amp on the left.
What's pretty cool about this alternator is it puts out 100 amps at 800 rpm. I tested the voltage at idle. 14.67
I upgraded the charging wire to 4 gauge. I love how it just looks stock. In case you haven't noticed, that's kind of what I've been going for on this entire build.
I'm trying to find the best place to put the MS-8 since I can't fit it under my seat.
The first thing I did was measure and cut out a piece. Then I covered it in carpet.
I mounted the MS-8 to it and will mount if down to the truck after all the wiring is done.
I moved on to the installation of the head unit. I went through and shrink wrapped all the wires. I bent over the ones I won't be using. I want it to be as organized as I can get it. I have to buy some yellow and black wire for the dc converter.
Ran all the wiring through to under the center console. I'm going to modify the cd changer cable into an auxiliary input. That way I can plug in an iPod or iPad or something.
I'm to the point where it's time to start making RCA cables. Once I make that first set I can mount in the 9255. I can't wait to hear it sing again!
I'm also waiting on my order of 10 gauge wire for the PQ10s.
Check out the difference between the alternators. The stock 105 amp is on the right, my aftermarket 235 amp on the left.
What's pretty cool about this alternator is it puts out 100 amps at 800 rpm. I tested the voltage at idle. 14.67
I upgraded the charging wire to 4 gauge. I love how it just looks stock. In case you haven't noticed, that's kind of what I've been going for on this entire build.
I'm trying to find the best place to put the MS-8 since I can't fit it under my seat.
The first thing I did was measure and cut out a piece. Then I covered it in carpet.
I mounted the MS-8 to it and will mount if down to the truck after all the wiring is done.
I moved on to the installation of the head unit. I went through and shrink wrapped all the wires. I bent over the ones I won't be using. I want it to be as organized as I can get it. I have to buy some yellow and black wire for the dc converter.
Ran all the wiring through to under the center console. I'm going to modify the cd changer cable into an auxiliary input. That way I can plug in an iPod or iPad or something.
I'm to the point where it's time to start making RCA cables. Once I make that first set I can mount in the 9255. I can't wait to hear it sing again!
I'm also waiting on my order of 10 gauge wire for the PQ10s.
#77
Well, I started wiring up the MS-8 and amplifiers. I finally got my 10 gauge wire I ordered off of eBay. It took two weeks to receive it.
I'm not quite done yet. The wires are ran but I plan on screwing them down.
I was going to hide them under the carpet but why bother? In a single cab truck, nobody will ever be able to see back there.
I got the wires all hooked up to the distribution blocks.
Now I need a full day to sit down and make/run RCAs.
I'm not quite done yet. The wires are ran but I plan on screwing them down.
I was going to hide them under the carpet but why bother? In a single cab truck, nobody will ever be able to see back there.
I got the wires all hooked up to the distribution blocks.
Now I need a full day to sit down and make/run RCAs.
#79
#80
Thanks guys!
I bought the alternator secondhand off of this site. I tested it and it was putting out 14.6v at idle, which is awesome.
Here's where the original guy bought the alternator:
04-96 Chevrolet Suburban,Tahoe High Output Alternator | eBay
I haven't read up on these newer alternators, so I don't know what they're called. With my camaro project, I switched over from a 12si to a cs130 and it helped a lot. I was surprised to find that this is a bigger alternator (physically). That should help with cooling. When you get up there n amperage guys run multiple alternators, or run externally cooled rectifiers.
I bought the alternator secondhand off of this site. I tested it and it was putting out 14.6v at idle, which is awesome.
Here's where the original guy bought the alternator:
04-96 Chevrolet Suburban,Tahoe High Output Alternator | eBay
I haven't read up on these newer alternators, so I don't know what they're called. With my camaro project, I switched over from a 12si to a cs130 and it helped a lot. I was surprised to find that this is a bigger alternator (physically). That should help with cooling. When you get up there n amperage guys run multiple alternators, or run externally cooled rectifiers.