Hey guys, I read an article on Truck'n called 5.3L Mild to wild, to were they took a stock 5.3L and made 4 builds.The last 2 were bored to 3.902 making it a 383 stroker. I believe that would be a 6.3L or right under it. Anyway, I talked to my son, and I am proud to say he is a major gear head, and he said that that is a huge amount for the 5.3L to bore, that on these sites like that they do it because they can not because it should be and would push the limits of drive ability and durability. Basically he said that you could drive it in a strait line but only for a short distance because if you make a bore this big to the small block that you will be making more changes than just the motor. you would also have to have a larger cooling system in place. EGR removal, larger throttle body, etc. Anyway I would like to know what other people think that may have souped there trucks up with the 5.3L. Would it be best to just buy a 6.0L block instead of using the 4.8-5.3L block? and go that route? Or Use the 5.3L block and go with this entire whole liter bore punch?

The "MIND" build:
Block: Stock 5.3L(bored to 3.9020)
Crank: 4340 forged 4.0-inch stroker, Procomp Electronics
Rods: 4340 6.2-inch I beam, Procomp Electronics
Pistons: Flat-top forged piston, Probe Industries (3.902 bore)
Cam: COMP 289LR HR14 .624. lift, 239/242 duration split, 114 LSA
Heads: TEA Stage 2.5 LS6 (1.72 roller rockers)
Intake: LSXRT
TB: FAST 102 mm
Headers: American Racing Headers 17⁄8-inch long-tube
Peak Power: 603 hp at 6,400 rpm
Peak Torque: 544 lb-ft at 5,400 rpm
Torque Curve: Exceeded 525 lb-ft of torque from 4,400-5,900 rpm

http://www.truckinweb.com/tech/1208t...d/viewall.html

Like I said, this is the build on the "Truck'n" forum. These numbers come from a dyno test, not installed in a truck or any vehicle so I dont even know if this is even possible to do and install and have a driver. Let me know what ya think before I go to buying parts. My biggest concern is making the walls in the 5.3L to thin and not being able to cool it properly without buying larger radiator ETC. VS buying a 6.0L block and punching it instead.
THANKS!!

 

I would buy a 6.0 and boar it out to a 4.060( 6.2 LS3) well build and boost the turds out of it, but that is just me. That will be my next 6.0

 

I hear ya....but thats not what I wanted to hear for sure. But it was what my son and myself were thinking as well. Just wanting to use what I have in the truck. But if I do go with this much of a drastic build, it does seem logical to get the 6.0 block if the 5.3 walls will be to thin. I just dont know. has anyone here tried this on this block? thanks for the input.

 

Didn't read all of the thread bit I've done 2 383s with 5.3 blocks and several 3.898 bore 5.3 blocks and never had an issue.

 

Many people have bored the 5.3 blocks to Ls1 bore and most have done it successfully. I believe I have heard of a few instances where the walls became too thin, however, so it may be a good idea to get the block checked after the boring has been completed to make sure it is good.

You do realize you also need a 4" crank to make it a 383 correct?

 

You do realize you also need a 4" crank to make it a 383 correct? Yes sir. I may have not posted that in the first post. Sorry.

I believe I have heard of a few instances where the walls became too thin, however, so it may be a good idea to get the block checked after the boring has been completed to make sure it is good.

So it sounds like in general that most had success. Well here is a positive. I always thought that the 4.8/5.3 and the 5.7-6.0L were all the same block. That only the bore and the stroke were different being that all are a small block.

 

Depending on what your machine shop charges to bore the block. But it's almost cheaper finding a junkyard 6.0 and building a 408 out of it... Then you have a better head selection to run with a 4.00" bore..

 

so the heads in your opinion the TEA Stage 2.5 LS6, are or are not a good selection in your opinion? And I did notice that there are many many different parts options, like you said, to go with the 6.0L vs the 5.3. All the way around, from heads to cranks, cams, etc. Just from the shopping I have been doing. Most of it being on Summit to compare prices with the list of makes that was listed on the Truck'n forum build.

 

I'd take a set of ported l92 heads over ported ls6 heads any day. L92 has a 2.165 intake valve vs the 2.0 of the ls6.

 

I built one. I have over 10k miles on it and never a single hint of overheating, even when towing 7000lbs in the summer heat. The engine has been nothing short of perfect except for a sticky injector recently (hardly the engine's fault). I'm running 11psi of boost and making well over 500 reliable wheel horsepower and similar torque. I would do it all over again. Here's my build thread:

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...tblock-478266/

I've gained a lot more HP since I ended this thread. A bigger blower would likely see almost 600rwhp. Ahh, some day...

In my opinion, all the myths pertaining to boring out the 5.3 are pure bunk.