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Front end rebuild done, turns out all 4 ball joints were floppy bois. The Viking coil-overs are the nicest coil overs I've ever messed with I have both compression and rebound set in the middle of their settings, and the front rides far superior to the rear. Got the ride height set just right at 34" ground to fender in the front and 34.5" in the rear. I'm sure it may settle a little so I'm gonna keep measuring for about a week and then get an alignment. This is such an easy upgrade I think I have about 5-6 hours of actual work by myself to replace all front end components and do the Coilover swap.
Do also need to get some bump stop pads, I couldn't find anything in my parts stash that would be slim enough.
Trucks looking good man. How much did you pay total for your coil over setup? Also any idea on what kinda weight was saved over the factory torsion bars?
everytime I read through your thread hoping to comment my phone does this super annoying thing and loads me back 2 or 3 more pages. I was lucky to get it to calm the f down for long enough to be able to comment right now lol.
Trucks looking good man. How much did you pay total for your coil over setup? Also any idea on what kinda weight was saved over the factory torsion bars?
everytime I read through your thread hoping to comment my phone does this super annoying thing and loads me back 2 or 3 more pages. I was lucky to get it to calm the f down for long enough to be able to comment right now lol.
Thanks dude!
My phone does the same thing it's super annoying. I bought the lower brackets and some extra parts I ended up not using for $220 off the forum last year. Then the coilovers straight from Atomic was $565 thats springs and wrenches included which I think is a dang good deal for the level of quality. So $785 if you don't replace all the control arms and junk like I did.
The weight savings I believe Atomic calculated just over 40lbs but there are some other variables that can add up to more savings.
One of the biggest benefits to me is that the T bar cross member makes getting the NV4500 a total PITA to remove and install especially on a 4wd. My buddy with the Denali decided if he has to pull the trans ever again its getting coilovers first. I know @2002_Z28_Six_Speed will confirm that headache haha.
Nice that’s really not too bad then. I’ve been out of the building anything for myself lately and just hammering down on my mortgage but when the time comes where I can splurge a little on some car or truck parts I wanna make sure the money is well spent. I’m pretty happy with my Tahoe how it sits now, only a few things I really wanna do to it, energy suspension sway bar bushings front and rear and shorten the links to realign the bars. I also got some 2019/2020 silverado 4 piston front brake calipers, need to buy some 2019/2020 front rotors, they are supposed to be 13.5” for them but other then that I’ll leave it like that till I do a cam and stall if I ever get to that point.
Nice that’s really not too bad then. I’ve been out of the building anything for myself lately and just hammering down on my mortgage but when the time comes where I can splurge a little on some car or truck parts I wanna make sure the money is well spent. I’m pretty happy with my Tahoe how it sits now, only a few things I really wanna do to it, energy suspension sway bar bushings front and rear and shorten the links to realign the bars. I also got some 2019/2020 silverado 4 piston front brake calipers, need to buy some 2019/2020 front rotors, they are supposed to be 13.5” for them but other then that I’ll leave it like that till I do a cam and stall if I ever get to that point.
I understand that I just moved into a new house/cabin myself. Had no heat for a week because the gas tank was empty and it was the coldest week we've had down here.
Is that brake upgrade a direct bolt-on option, or are you gonna fab some brackets? I'd be really interested in that.
Summit is sending me a new front Hellwig it looks like the packaging got messed up in shipping and all the end links/bushings/brackets got lost. Then I need to measure for those end links and realign the rear as well as figure out what to do with the rear it rides pretty terrible. Not sure if it's the Eibach springs, the old KYB shocks, or both.
As far as I know all you need is 1/8” washers between the calipers and knuckles to center them. Mine rides a little on the stiff side in the rear suspension since I switched over to some read lift springs cut to drop the truck. It sits exactly how I want it to now but I think the rear shocks need the extenders extended a bit more to remedy it. I still need to find a z71 tahoe drivers side rear mud flap to have all the z71 lower moldings on. If you see any at any of the junk yards let me know I’ll pay you a fair price for it. Only ones I’ve found on eBay were 100-120 shipped which is too much for such a small piece when I know I wouldn’t pay more then $10-20 locally when one turns up at the pick a part. Funny thing is this Tahoe corners better then my Escalade did even though it still has stock sway bars misaligned and bushings on it currently vs the belltech bars with poly bushings and shortened links to align them right.
01-20-2021, 09:13 AM
