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6.0 Turbo build

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Old 03-13-2014, 12:45 PM
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^^^ yes, I've dynoed a good amount of cars and they always perform differently on the street
Old 03-13-2014, 06:26 PM
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Well like I said he dialed it in on the dyno, he was telling me when he first got the base tune in it with the lighter spring he beating on it down the street and would only make 4 lbs of boost so he tested it on the street.

He told me what the motor uses to run, MAP, O2s, IAT, coolant temp (yes i know those arent the only four things) and to check those that they are all working like they should, I have a scan tool to look at all of them. Another possibility he said is injectors could be sticking. They still are the smartfire ones that have bad reviews I know I know. If it is the injectors im going to siemens dekas I just didnt research enough and found smartfires before the siemens.


I know I need to get the truck running good first but back to the original problem...
Thinking about getting a manual boost controller, one of the low pressure regulator types, to fix my lack of boost problem, or should I try shimming the spring?

And down the road I was looking at getting a e boost street, worth it?
Old 03-13-2014, 06:28 PM
  #113  
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The last thing you need to do before you fix ALL the issues is add more boost.

You spent a lot of time and effort on this, do you really want to blow it up in a hurry?
Old 03-13-2014, 07:11 PM
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I know I know fix the issues first then worry about making power. My goal was 500 hp to the wheels, driveshaft and tires according to Don will hold me back from that but 500 at the crank he said no problem. He was looking for 10-12 lbs of boost out of this thing but the spring only got it 7

I cant do anything with the truck right now, Im presenting it tomorrow at school and Ive just had ideas boucing around in my head today
Old 03-13-2014, 11:47 PM
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Placement of the O2s is legit. I plumbed both of mine in the downpipe. They fight each other. Turned them off. No problems. Tuned truck in open loop with no issue. Open loop sucks for mpg, but is fine for WOT as long as you ve & corrections are set up right. You've got a wide band so keep N eye on it and you'll be fine.

Are you running hp tuners?

76 mm will easily support 500whp, regardless of make. 62 mm will do 600 from most name brand mfgs.

Tire and drive shaft don't limit hp. They limit speed. You make peak hp in every gear depending on traction. Critical mass is a calc, not reality. It true to stay safe but I could post more than a handful of threads that would say you'd be fine. Atomic is right in the sense thst Don is being safe.

Last edited by boostedsl2; 03-13-2014 at 11:55 PM.
Old 03-14-2014, 12:57 AM
  #116  
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Your goal of 500 isn't out of the question by any means. That truck has 500hp in it on a bad day. Just get the little bugs worked out, get it tuned correctly and 10-12 psi will be super fun
Old 03-14-2014, 09:56 AM
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all of your problems sound like they stem from a shitty tune. So your options are get HP Tuners and learn or take it back. The nice thing about only running 7 psi is it will be easier to tune. Get HP Tuners and post a log. If you have a question about tuning or your setup, shoot me a pm.
Old 03-14-2014, 01:56 PM
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I appreciate the offer thank you.

So much stuff came together today it was great. I my presentation at school and got a 100 on the product (the truck) and a 95 on the presentation.

I used the snap on verus fancy $5000 touch screen scan tool at school and one 02 was fluctuating a **** ton and the other was barely moving. Sent a video to Don and he said the one not moving is bad so thatd explain everything the computer is getting false readings.

So I got to get a new sensor and then cut the BOV because it doesnt open at all right now and then see what it does

And down the road Ill probably learn how to tune myself. Cause down the road and I mean years down the road when I turn this thing up and max it out Ive perused the internet before for 408 long blocks but thats a dream right now

Last edited by GRRR65GTO; 03-14-2014 at 02:03 PM.
Old 03-15-2014, 02:29 PM
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Got the new 02, went and googled to see which side bank 1 sensor 2 is, which would be the after cat sensor on the driver side, that doesnt exist anymore...

My dad watched it run and said right away its got a misfire, so I figured out its the number 8 cylinder, and its lean so the injectors not working. Sure enough I unplugged the injector and nothing changes. So either something clogged it or the ****** thing died because its from smartfire. So Im gonna see what they are gonna do for me. Id love it if they took them back but thats probably not gonna happen. Im really tempted to just buy seimens dekas try to resell the smartfires and just eat some of the money.....
Old 03-15-2014, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by GRRR65GTO
Got the new 02, went and googled to see which side bank 1 sensor 2 is, which would be the after cat sensor on the driver side, that doesnt exist anymore...

My dad watched it run and said right away its got a misfire, so I figured out its the number 8 cylinder, and its lean so the injectors not working. Sure enough I unplugged the injector and nothing changes. So either something clogged it or the ****** thing died because its from smartfire. So Im gonna see what they are gonna do for me. Id love it if they took them back but thats probably not gonna happen. Im really tempted to just buy seimens dekas try to resell the smartfires and just eat some of the money.....
Sell those smartfire injectors, or just throw them away. Sucks you had to learn the hard way about their product.
Buy a quality injector and call it a day.
I have ran injector dynamics or Delphi. But all the name brand injectors last miles/years longer than the smartfire..
Good luck in your build, and I hope you get the bugs worked out


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