GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

Just get msd wires and be done with it. The bendable boot prevents any clearance issue.

GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

The wire length depends on which coils you have. I run car length

GRRR65GTO

A good couple inches shorter than my truck ones, Id measure but I already sent them back to summit. Whats so special about the firecore wires?

And I know I was thinking about the MSD bendable ones too, since they are cheaper than the accel ones...

Or actually maybe they were like an inch shorter, I could get them to plug onto the coils but there was no slack at all, when the slack was taken up the coil end slid onto the coil about 1/2 inch but wouldnt plug into the coil without pulling on it more

Vortec350ss

iTrader: (20)

Any update here? That tick ever go away? Are you going to pull a head?

GRRR65GTO

I know ive been slacking on the update

Yeah the tick went away, it was just a loose rocker, all of the others were still torqued nice and tight when I checked it was weird.

I got a set of MSD wires with high heat boots and theyre bendable so thats all set.

But now i have a manifold leak again. I messed up one of the exhaust bolt holes when I tried putting on the manifold before I had it machined and the holes elongated and cross threaded the bolt. Ran a thread chaser through it and it was ok. Ran the truck for like a month and it started ticking. The manifold warped again, pulling the stud out of the head with it. I tried tightening it and it just spun so its stripped. I got to helicoil the hole.

As for the manifold I talked to kyle and he said if I ship it to him hell slap a new flange on it for me. So I was wicked happy about that. He always has great customer service

GRRR65GTO

So another update on the never ending small issues I have....

A manifold stud broke about a month ago and started to warp the 1/2 flange, so I finally figured out why. The crossover and the downpipe didn't fit quite right and the waste gate was pulling on the downpipe. I added in some pipe and welded it in and it's good as new. I put a new bold in the broken stud hole and the tick went right away.

So now back to an old problem I had. Back in the fall when I had a rocker loosen up I had alot of coffee colored **** on the inside of my valve covers built up and what looked like some water in the low spot of my heads. I thought and other people thought it was condensation. Well probably like 2 months ago I had the valve covers off to retorque my rockers just cause. And all that **** was still on the valve covers and there was some water in a low spot in the head. Well this time I took some on my finger and licked it. Yeah its not water, its coolant. So coolant in my oil, but not enough to change the color of my oil at all or to pool up at the bottom of my pan cause I took the drain plug out after the truck sat and nothin. I also pressure tested the cooling system at that time and it holds pressure fine. So that leaves head gasket or my teacher thought a crack in a head. So now I'm pretty much left with throwing some ls9 gaskets in it and getting the heads checked for cracks.... unless there's another option.



Theres the gap





Picture i took a while back after i washed it really good, got stuck in a mudhole the night before

Vortec350ss

iTrader: (20)

I know its not always an option... but have some port work done while the heads are off.

Send them to TEA and have them check all the guides. They are the only ones I know of who can replace them with factory quality powdered guides. They have a great program and if you arent buying springs its very reasonably priced.

GRRR65GTO

Ehhhhh I think I'm gonna pass on the porting for now. If I wasnt doing everything else this spring when I get out of school I'd think about it but I'm already planning on dropping some $$ in her in a few months with meth, bigger intercooler, new e-fans and new wheels/tires. Im just shooting for 500-520 rwhp now I hope.

GRRR65GTO

Another broken truck update

I did head gaskets to fix the water in coolant problem, I put LS9s in this time too

Then I went to the dragstrip to race at a diesel night and turn some heads again not intending to put down and new times and it ran the two quickest times ever, granted I did take off the tail gate and spare tire this time. A 13.53 in 4wd and a 13.55 in 2wd. Then on the last run one of my u joint caps came loose at the top end and that gernaded my driveshaft and broke the transfer case adapter on the back of the trans. So one used drivesshaft and a new adapter she was back on the road.

This past weak the lifter noise got more than usual so I checked that my rockers to see if they were loose and none were. But there was condensation starting on the inside of my valve covers again. And I tasted it and its coolant.... So Im at a loss of words now as to what it is. It must be a cracked block or head. Or my block or head surface is super untrue. To check either it is a huge process.

Now my plan is to out something more stout in cause I planning on it anyways when I blew this motor up but I might be able to salvage it now once I send it to a machine shop to find out whats wrong.

So now heres what I have to decide

370
390
408

I dont really know which one. 370 would be the cheapest option but if Im going to but in a stouter motor it may aswell have more cubes too right? Nobody except AES makes a 390 that I could find off the shelf and theres is $6500 which isnt exactly on a budget, and im also not shooting for 1200 whp like they claim theres can handle. Then theres a 408 which plenty of people make and run but theres the theoretical issue of the stroke being too much so im stuck in between here. I know Rob used golens engine in NH to do his so I think im gonna shoot them a email and see what prices they come up with to do a 370 or a 390

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

Forged 6.0. You dont need big cubes with a turbo to make power. The smaller bore of a stock 6.0 with forged parts will be more than fine.