DV2000NJ

iTrader: (10)

You have access to a welder? If you can fit, you might be able to weld a nut or another bolt onto the rounded one. That's how I had to get one out of my 4.8, but everything was out of the truck.

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

How bad of an idea is it to pull the converter with the engine? I dont think the input shaft would like that since you cant just pull it straight out...

AKlowriderZ71

iTrader: (22)

You can pull the converter with the engine if you have to. Sometimes that's just the way it goes. If you do, just make sure to replace the converter seal before you go back together.

Also, let the air out of those front tires. You'll be glad you did.

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

That damn bolt is really bending me over. I couldnt get it off this morning so I pulled the engine with it attached and may have damaged the trans pump....luckily I still have my old trans I can put in for now.

On better news, I got the 408 in, but nothing is bolted up because of the torque converter screwing up and binding when fully seated in the trans. I worked on it today from 6:30 to about 8 tonight. I dont know how the hell you guys do engine swaps in a day without a pit crew. Im on day 3 tomorrow.

heres the 5.3 coming out,

I ended up just barely clearing the rad support when my tires off and sitting on the lca's.

Tootall

iTrader: (79)

autozone sells those thin 2x3 sheets of metal for drip pans, they work great . . ..

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

I just used a pressure sprayer to clean up after.

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

In retrospect, this is terrible advice

My performabuilt level 3 is non-functional thanks to a broken pump from pulling the converter with the flexplate...

So I got an extra fun time of swapping in the stock trans in along with the new engine, that was a nice 5 hour detour. The good news is the 408 is in, trans bolted up, and headers and ac are on. Although, I could not get the passenger side header in with the exhaust studs, so I am having to use bolts on that side.
After 3 days of this im exhausted and just want to be finished and drive again. Although the whole thing is bittersweet at this point because of my broken trans, and I really doubt the stocker would like the power plus the weight of my truck....

Should be driving tomorrow barring something else breaks. Damn Murphy.

1slow01Z71

iTrader: (36)

Trans pum is an easy fix. Bout 80 bucks for pump ring and cage and for an experienced builder only an hour job.

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

Any good writeups on how to do it? I think the pump in the level 3 is a special hardened 13 vane something or other, that frank is happy to sell me for $250... Is the part that broke part of that assembly or some other non-relevant item?

1slow01Z71

iTrader: (36)

You broke the pump ring, since it wasnt running when you broke it the cage should be fine and not dinged up. 13 vane pumps are very common, sounds like Frank is trying to screw you. No point in having a "hardened" pump, it only moves fluid. You can find 13 vane pumps all over the place. When I built my old 60e a few years back I think I ordered mine off 4l60e.com. Might check with FLT, theyve always done me right on prices and helpful info. There arent any write-ups that I know of online but there are a few guys on here that build transmissions. Built 408 can probably help you with instruction on installing the part.