Blown06-New Build: Cage, 4-Link, Cog Drive, + Too Much More
07-21-2010 | 01:31 PM
#201
I think I've come up with an idea on how to mount the stop lamp switch, but I need to see some pictures of exactly how it was originally oriented on the brake pedal stud. Could someone crawl up under their dash and take a detailed picture of this for me? This is what the switch looks like.
07-21-2010 | 07:37 PM
#202
Teching In
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
The factory one. I don't want this truck to start looking like a race car.
Thanks. Whats the status on your stuff. Still rockin the procharger? Have you been any faster with it? Didn't we both break the 10 sec. barrier on the same night without each other knowing about it?
Can anybody get me a wiring diagram for the brake switch off the brake pedal? If I recall it has 8 (or maybe it was 6) wires coming from it. I tried searching all over the net this evening and couldn't find anything other than it should be similar for almost all nbs trucks (at least the dbw ones). I'm trying to figure out what the hell I'm gonna do about remounting this switch and I'm anticipating having to change the wiring around a bit if I can't use the factory switch.
Thanks. Whats the status on your stuff. Still rockin the procharger? Have you been any faster with it? Didn't we both break the 10 sec. barrier on the same night without each other knowing about it?
Can anybody get me a wiring diagram for the brake switch off the brake pedal? If I recall it has 8 (or maybe it was 6) wires coming from it. I tried searching all over the net this evening and couldn't find anything other than it should be similar for almost all nbs trucks (at least the dbw ones). I'm trying to figure out what the hell I'm gonna do about remounting this switch and I'm anticipating having to change the wiring around a bit if I can't use the factory switch.
07-21-2010 | 07:53 PM
#203
Brake switch
From All Data
A- White : Stop lamp switch
B- Orange : Battery Positive Voltage
C- Brown : Ignition 3 voltage
D- Purple : TCC Brake Switch Signal
E- Light Green/Black : A/T shift lock control switch supply voltage
F- Dark Green/White : A/T shift lock control Solenoid supply voltage
Not sure if the picture will work.
A- White : Stop lamp switch
B- Orange : Battery Positive Voltage
C- Brown : Ignition 3 voltage
D- Purple : TCC Brake Switch Signal
E- Light Green/Black : A/T shift lock control switch supply voltage
F- Dark Green/White : A/T shift lock control Solenoid supply voltage
Not sure if the picture will work.
Last edited by 2005 Silverado; 07-21-2010 at 07:58 PM. Reason: add picture
07-23-2010 | 01:50 AM
#205
From All Data
A- White : Stop lamp switch
B- Orange : Battery Positive Voltage
C- Brown : Ignition 3 voltage
D- Purple : TCC Brake Switch Signal
E- Light Green/Black : A/T shift lock control switch supply voltage
F- Dark Green/White : A/T shift lock control Solenoid supply voltage
Not sure if the picture will work.
A- White : Stop lamp switch
B- Orange : Battery Positive Voltage
C- Brown : Ignition 3 voltage
D- Purple : TCC Brake Switch Signal
E- Light Green/Black : A/T shift lock control switch supply voltage
F- Dark Green/White : A/T shift lock control Solenoid supply voltage
Not sure if the picture will work.
Thanks.
07-23-2010 | 03:12 AM
#206
I just went through this process. All I did was press the pin out of the brake arm, drilled a hole about a 1" down from the original location and reinstalled as factory. I had to cut the eyelet off both the original booster and new mastercylinder. Welded the old eyelet on the new adjustable rod and everything went back together as normal. Still adjustable and everything works.
There was an easier way to do it but I screwed it up. You could just cut the old booster rod about half way back and the reverse thread it like the new master rod and everything will attach as normal as well. I threaded mine and realized I didn't reverse thread it to late...lol.
There was an easier way to do it but I screwed it up. You could just cut the old booster rod about half way back and the reverse thread it like the new master rod and everything will attach as normal as well. I threaded mine and realized I didn't reverse thread it to late...lol.
07-23-2010 | 11:13 AM
#207
If you need any pictures or measurments let me know. I have a hydro boost Im gonna install and the brake arm is right there so its not like I have to take my own truck apart.
I love having spare parts!!! LOL
I love having spare parts!!! LOL
07-24-2010 | 02:41 AM
#209
I just went through this process. All I did was press the pin out of the brake arm, drilled a hole about a 1" down from the original location and reinstalled as factory. I had to cut the eyelet off both the original booster and new mastercylinder. Welded the old eyelet on the new adjustable rod and everything went back together as normal. Still adjustable and everything works.
There was an easier way to do it but I screwed it up. You could just cut the old booster rod about half way back and the reverse thread it like the new master rod and everything will attach as normal as well. I threaded mine and realized I didn't reverse thread it to late...lol.
There was an easier way to do it but I screwed it up. You could just cut the old booster rod about half way back and the reverse thread it like the new master rod and everything will attach as normal as well. I threaded mine and realized I didn't reverse thread it to late...lol.
I like your idea of mounting though. I might try something like that. Sounds easier than what I was going to try.
I'll be painting the bars flat black.
07-24-2010 | 01:41 PM
#210
I want to make sure I did this right. I need more ratio becasue I have manual brakes. I mounted the master cylinder arm farther from the pivot point therefore giving me more force applied. Am I correct?
scratch that, I am an idiot...lol your right. Force is greater longer the arm closer to pivot point.
scratch that, I am an idiot...lol your right. Force is greater longer the arm closer to pivot point.
Last edited by jasond26; 07-24-2010 at 01:47 PM.