Blown06-New Build: Cage, 4-Link, Cog Drive, + Too Much More
#311
on the gmc, i am running a stock diff with a Eaton locker and stock axles with leafs and caltracs...it been a best of 1.40 of the foot break with 12 psi launch and 1.37 off the t-brake with 8 psi launch...dont want to leave harder off the t-brake as i feel it will let go
the chevy has a Fab 9 with ladder bars and 40 spline axles
the chevy has a Fab 9 with ladder bars and 40 spline axles
Have you broken any rear components on the lil sis turbo set up yet or does it seem easier on driveline parts compared to nos.
For Blown06:
since you've had the entire dash harness apart, maybe you could answer a question for me.
Is the power door harness/wiring loomed with the rest of the dash harness or are they seperate? I am trying to determine if I need to swap an entire dash harness when I convert to power windows/locks/mirrors......or if I can just transfer the needed wiring and pinouts to the BCM and door harness junctions on either side of the dash.
thanks for your time
since you've had the entire dash harness apart, maybe you could answer a question for me.
Is the power door harness/wiring loomed with the rest of the dash harness or are they seperate? I am trying to determine if I need to swap an entire dash harness when I convert to power windows/locks/mirrors......or if I can just transfer the needed wiring and pinouts to the BCM and door harness junctions on either side of the dash.
thanks for your time
Now, I've heard that you do not absolutely have to run the doors through the BCM if you don't want to. You will loose some functionality like "one-tap" down on the windows, and if they are the defrosting mirrors it would probably not work as well because there are addtional wires to the switches in the dash that control this. From what I've heard the controls for the window swich , lock switch and mirror adj. switch are built into the door. All you have to do is run 12v power to the proper wires coming out of the door and hook up any additional grounds that may be coming out of there (there may not be any if they're grounded in the door). If I recall there are only a couple of wires that come out of the doors and 2 are for the speakers. To me this would be the easiest way to convert and just deal with not having a couple of wussy perks that the BCM can do for you.
#312
Had to send the Versafueler back to Acceleronics today as one of the wires coming out of the box was smashed and copper was showing. I told him that I would spend the $60 to overnight it to him for inspection if he could get me another one shipped out to my house by the end of the week.
Granted, I just unwrapped this thing, never hooked it up, bolted it down or started splicing wires or anything. I took it out of the box, looked at it and put it back in the box with everything it came with including the supplied butt connectors and mounting screws unopened.
He admitted that it was a problem from there assembly shop and that he would send me a new one, which I expected. However, he said that he didn't feel it was his responsiblity to cover costs (shipping) to get it back to me before the end of the week. Said that if I wanted it faster than their std. rate ground shipping that I would have to pay for it. Not sure how I felt about that?????????????????????
Would you guys make a stink, or just pay the extra to get it here so I can finish this thing up?
Granted, I just unwrapped this thing, never hooked it up, bolted it down or started splicing wires or anything. I took it out of the box, looked at it and put it back in the box with everything it came with including the supplied butt connectors and mounting screws unopened.
He admitted that it was a problem from there assembly shop and that he would send me a new one, which I expected. However, he said that he didn't feel it was his responsiblity to cover costs (shipping) to get it back to me before the end of the week. Said that if I wanted it faster than their std. rate ground shipping that I would have to pay for it. Not sure how I felt about that?????????????????????
Would you guys make a stink, or just pay the extra to get it here so I can finish this thing up?
#314
. You will loose some functionality like "one-tap" down on the windows, and if they are the defrosting mirrors it would probably not work as well because there are addtional wires to the switches in the dash that control this. From what I've heard the controls for the window swich , lock switch and mirror adj. switch are built into the door. All you have to do is run 12v power to the proper wires coming out of the door and hook up any additional grounds that may be coming out of there (there may not be any if they're grounded in the door). If I recall there are only a couple of wires that come out of the doors and 2 are for the speakers. To me this would be the easiest way to convert and just deal with not having a couple of wussy perks that the BCM can do for you.
I really only want the power windows and locks; I'll be keeping the manual mirrors for simplicity. From what I have observed, there are 4-6 wires already in the harness plug so I guess I have some wire chasing to do.
#315
GFYS and STFU
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 13,870
Likes: 4
From: Here and sometimes there too.
I could be wrong but I noticed when I switched from manual seats to electric seats when I was about to sell my CCSB that the harness already had the wiring for the heated and electric seats. I did have to swap connectors so that I could plug in the new seats but all in all the wiring was already there. I'm wondering if it's the same for the windows. I could be wrong though.
#316
I could be wrong but I noticed when I switched from manual seats to electric seats when I was about to sell my CCSB that the harness already had the wiring for the heated and electric seats. I did have to swap connectors so that I could plug in the new seats but all in all the wiring was already there. I'm wondering if it's the same for the windows. I could be wrong though.
I checked again today, there are at least 4 wires that run into the door on my manual window truck, and there is nothing that runs off of power in the door since mine is a WT trim truck.
sorry to thread jack
#318
Yea, I noticed when i was striping the harness in the cab there was some extra wiring for options that my truck did not come with. Talked to a guy at the dealership and he told me that most of the "harness" wiring in these trucks is generic and then options are added on later.
262_NBS: If you go over on ls1tech, I've seen writeups on "race wiring" the f-bodies that talk about deleting the BCM and running a 12v supply to keep the elec. windows functional. Might help you out a bit.
262_NBS: If you go over on ls1tech, I've seen writeups on "race wiring" the f-bodies that talk about deleting the BCM and running a 12v supply to keep the elec. windows functional. Might help you out a bit.
#319
on the nos truck like 10..haha on the lil sis its been the only set i have put in it though...the nos hit was just alot more violent at initial hit...even though this one 60's better...
#320
You goona have some dyno time available for me when I need it?