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Blown06-New Build: Cage, 4-Link, Cog Drive, + Too Much More

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Old 01-23-2011 | 07:20 AM
  #351  
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Originally Posted by Blown06
I've just about got the engine harness done and I've hit a small road block. I'm trying to figure out what to do with the Generator Battery Control Module. Here are some options, but with questions:

1. Keep it.
If I do end up having to use it, do I have to put it back near the battery or can I put it on the ground cable that goes from the motor to the frame? If I have to put it back near the battery then I'll have to run some additional wires back up to the front to hook back into the harness. As far as I'm concerned this is the **** option.

2. Get rid of it. Ok, how? I did a ton of searching on the forums tonight and I can't seem to find any definate answers. If I can get rid of it, how hard would it be to convert to a one wire alternator, and how do I get the factory volt gauge to work?

I did a ton of searching on the forums tonight and I can't seem to find any definative answers on deleting it. I have seen where some people take the brown and grey wire from the alternator to a switched 12v source with a resistor on one of the wires. But I can't find an answer on what to do about the rest of the wires. If I remember right, there are 7 wires that connect to the GBCM. 2 appear to be grounds (black w/white stripe), 2 feed into the under hood fuse box (red w/black stripe), 1 wire that appears to go back into the cab, possibly for the instrument cluster (orange w/black stripe) and then the brown and grey to the alternator.

My truck appears to be different than any year model before it as the research I've done shows the 05 and earlier trucks with the alt. wires going to the pcm. Mine don't.

I would appreciate some help on this, I sure its been done, I just haven't found anyone that knows how to do it.
I've read this whole thread now and the photo's of the wiring work you've done indicate that you are a very patient and intelligent hot rodder. This is some impressive work you've done here. Thanks for taking me/us along for the ride! I really learning a lot!!
Old 01-23-2011 | 01:30 PM
  #352  
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Originally Posted by Blown06
I've just about got the engine harness done and I've hit a small road block. I'm trying to figure out what to do with the Generator Battery Control Module. Here are some options, but with questions:

1. Keep it.
If I do end up having to use it, do I have to put it back near the battery or can I put it on the ground cable that goes from the motor to the frame? If I have to put it back near the battery then I'll have to run some additional wires back up to the front to hook back into the harness. As far as I'm concerned this is the **** option.

2. Get rid of it. Ok, how? I did a ton of searching on the forums tonight and I can't seem to find any definate answers. If I can get rid of it, how hard would it be to convert to a one wire alternator, and how do I get the factory volt gauge to work?

I did a ton of searching on the forums tonight and I can't seem to find any definative answers on deleting it. I have seen where some people take the brown and grey wire from the alternator to a switched 12v source with a resistor on one of the wires. But I can't find an answer on what to do about the rest of the wires. If I remember right, there are 7 wires that connect to the GBCM. 2 appear to be grounds (black w/white stripe), 2 feed into the under hood fuse box (red w/black stripe), 1 wire that appears to go back into the cab, possibly for the instrument cluster (orange w/black stripe) and then the brown and grey to the alternator.

My truck appears to be different than any year model before it as the research I've done shows the 05 and earlier trucks with the alt. wires going to the pcm. Mine don't.

I would appreciate some help on this, I sure its been done, I just haven't found anyone that knows how to do it.

Disable the "L" and "f" field alarms for the alt. Then go ahead with a one wire. The dash voltmeter should still work, afik. This is how I've run my 01 Vette and my old 03 1/2 ton
Old 01-23-2011 | 02:25 PM
  #353  
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Originally Posted by Blown06
I've just about got the engine harness done and I've hit a small road block. I'm trying to figure out what to do with the Generator Battery Control Module.
What does it look like?
Old 01-23-2011 | 02:57 PM
  #354  
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Will you have this running for the SAR meet. Would be nice to see it in action.
Old 01-23-2011 | 03:43 PM
  #355  
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Originally Posted by 1989k1500
What does it look like?

Old 01-23-2011 | 03:46 PM
  #356  
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Originally Posted by JoeyGC5
Disable the "L" and "f" field alarms for the alt. Then go ahead with a one wire. The dash voltmeter should still work, afik. This is how I've run my 01 Vette and my old 03 1/2 ton
What do you mean by disabling the field alarms? Do you mean disabling the DTC's in the tune? If thats all I have to do to run a 1-wire that would be crazy awesome. I don't know why, but for some reason I don't think its gonna be that easy.

Originally Posted by tarinitup
Will you have this running for the SAR meet. Would be nice to see it in action.
Unfortunately not.
Old 01-23-2011 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Blown06
What do you mean by disabling the field alarms? Do you mean disabling the DTC's in the tune? If thats all I have to do to run a 1-wire that would be crazy awesome. I don't know why, but for some reason I don't think its gonna be that easy.

Like I said, disabling the DTC's for the two field circuits was what worked for me when I used a 1 wire alt in my 03 ecsb for the stereo upgrade as well as I've been running a 1 wire in my 01 Vette since I got it home from the factory. I'm not sure what you mean by the voltage regulator box though?
Old 01-24-2011 | 01:30 AM
  #358  
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Well, I might try that. Is there a good (not some autozone ****) 1-wire alternator that has the same mounting as an F-body?
Old 01-24-2011 | 06:13 AM
  #359  
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When you get everything back together you can do a test by disabling the "F" and "L" generator alarms in the pcm, then unplug the field connector from the factory alt, leaving only the output wire connected. Start the truck and you may have to slightly rev the motor to say 2k-2.6k rpms for a second or two to generate a field in the stator (start producing voltage). If the truck runs and no alarm conditions occur your golden for a 1 wire swap.
Old 02-04-2011 | 11:47 AM
  #360  
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Any updates?


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