Blown06-New Build: Cage, 4-Link, Cog Drive, + Too Much More
#472
Since then I've gone out just messing around and tried a case of the Fiocchi Super Crushers (1 oz. 7.5 shot at 1400 fps) and really liked them on targets 30 yards and shorter. I've also tried 2 cases of Rio Star Team 32 (1-1/8 oz. 7.5 shot at 1300 fps). They seem to work just as good as the AA's and are about $3-$4 less per box from Able Ammo in Huntsville.
The thing about shooting NSCA tournaments is the cost. Entry fee for tournaments with good payouts is typically around $195. Add in the cart rental at $100 and a case of quality shells at $80 and it starts adding up quick. Thats $375 just to shoot the main. Then if you wanna shoot the prelim count on another $85 fee plus $32 for shells and a Friday cart fee $50 theres another $167. Theres a weekend of shooting for a grand total of $542! Thats what most people pay for a shotgun.
O'yea and then you have to practice $$$
#473
im going to try out a case of this rio ammo bud.
Rio Competition Target Load Star Team Shotshells ST3275, 12 Gauge, 2 3/4", 1 1/8 oz, 1300 fps, #7.5
thanks for the heads up.
iv only been a seasonal dove hunter since i was a kid. Just these past few months I decided that i needed to pick up another hobby. I had my 1100 fitted to me and i hope to order a 30" probore threaded barrel pretty soon. along with some briley extended choke tubes. for now im stuck with the factory original fixed MOD barrel with the forcing cone cut out
Rio Competition Target Load Star Team Shotshells ST3275, 12 Gauge, 2 3/4", 1 1/8 oz, 1300 fps, #7.5
thanks for the heads up.
iv only been a seasonal dove hunter since i was a kid. Just these past few months I decided that i needed to pick up another hobby. I had my 1100 fitted to me and i hope to order a 30" probore threaded barrel pretty soon. along with some briley extended choke tubes. for now im stuck with the factory original fixed MOD barrel with the forcing cone cut out
#475
Awesome build thread. I haven't been able to read everything, but jumping around the thread a few things that come to mind that may help out. One, it sounds like you're using a stock block with a big stroke. There was some feedback from some of the board about oil control problems........obviously a big problem you don't want (oil in the chamber on a boosted application such as this)----have you considered a sleeved block (like some of the work from ERL - see below). The sleeves extend lower and would resolve that issue imo.
2nd: how about running the blower off of the front of the crank? I have an F2 on my mustang with that setup (see link below) and if you're working the blower hard and pushing the combo, it is worth about 70rwhp over a traditional side slinger setup on a mustang with a glide and small block. A lot easier on the crank and block too. This setup would use your blower (doesn't require a reverse rotation head unit or anything weird like that). The bigger blowers like the F2 (especially when they are spun up) will see the best results as they require a ton of horsepower to drive.
The supercharger store is where I got my kit, but there are others out there (racecraft iirc). Either way, it sounds like you are going to have a serious machine on your hands. Take care.
2nd: how about running the blower off of the front of the crank? I have an F2 on my mustang with that setup (see link below) and if you're working the blower hard and pushing the combo, it is worth about 70rwhp over a traditional side slinger setup on a mustang with a glide and small block. A lot easier on the crank and block too. This setup would use your blower (doesn't require a reverse rotation head unit or anything weird like that). The bigger blowers like the F2 (especially when they are spun up) will see the best results as they require a ton of horsepower to drive.
The supercharger store is where I got my kit, but there are others out there (racecraft iirc). Either way, it sounds like you are going to have a serious machine on your hands. Take care.
Yea, power windows and radio.
I've got a pending sale on the motor, so it will be coming out next weekend. I'm getting another motor built right now. I'll be using my 6.0 block but haven't decided on a crank yet, I'm contemplating 3 different strokes either 3.800, 4.000 or 4.100. Gonna just leave it up to the builder. It'll stay hyd. roller, and I've got a set of 245cc Edelbrocks from WCCH (Spoolin's old heads).
I'm hoping to have the motor done within the next month or two. Truck will be ready by then so not too much longer.
I've got a pending sale on the motor, so it will be coming out next weekend. I'm getting another motor built right now. I'll be using my 6.0 block but haven't decided on a crank yet, I'm contemplating 3 different strokes either 3.800, 4.000 or 4.100. Gonna just leave it up to the builder. It'll stay hyd. roller, and I've got a set of 245cc Edelbrocks from WCCH (Spoolin's old heads).
I'm hoping to have the motor done within the next month or two. Truck will be ready by then so not too much longer.
Last edited by Bill Reid; 08-19-2011 at 12:41 PM. Reason: No non-sponsor links please
#476
Awesome build thread. I haven't been able to read everything, but jumping around the thread a few things that come to mind that may help out. One, it sounds like you're using a stock block with a big stroke. There was some feedback from some of the board about oil control problems........obviously a big problem you don't want (oil in the chamber on a boosted application such as this)----have you considered a sleeved block (like some of the work from ERL - see below). The sleeves extend lower and would resolve that issue imo.
2nd: how about running the blower off of the front of the crank? I have an F2 on my mustang with that setup (see link below) and if you're working the blower hard and pushing the combo, it is worth about 70rwhp over a traditional side slinger setup on a mustang with a glide and small block. A lot easier on the crank and block too. This setup would use your blower (doesn't require a reverse rotation head unit or anything weird like that). The bigger blowers like the F2 (especially when they are spun up) will see the best results as they require a ton of horsepower to drive.
The supercharger store is where I got my kit, but there are others out there (racecraft iirc). Either way, it sounds like you are going to have a serious machine on your hands. Take care.
2nd: how about running the blower off of the front of the crank? I have an F2 on my mustang with that setup (see link below) and if you're working the blower hard and pushing the combo, it is worth about 70rwhp over a traditional side slinger setup on a mustang with a glide and small block. A lot easier on the crank and block too. This setup would use your blower (doesn't require a reverse rotation head unit or anything weird like that). The bigger blowers like the F2 (especially when they are spun up) will see the best results as they require a ton of horsepower to drive.
The supercharger store is where I got my kit, but there are others out there (racecraft iirc). Either way, it sounds like you are going to have a serious machine on your hands. Take care.
On that note, are there any finished pics of the truck? I havn't been able to read the entire thread, we got alot of work goin on. I'd like to see that thing in it's finished state.
Last edited by 1FastBrick; 10-14-2012 at 06:09 PM. Reason: non-sponsor links removed from quote. 10/14/12 Sig pulled
#477
We're a dealer for Racecraft Inc., In case anyone wanted to get parts from them through us. Just a little FYI.
On that note, are there any finished pics of the truck? I havn't been able to read the entire thread, we got alot of work goin on. I'd like to see that thing in it's finished state.
On that note, are there any finished pics of the truck? I havn't been able to read the entire thread, we got alot of work goin on. I'd like to see that thing in it's finished state.
All the work you guys did and he has been out skeet shooting instead of finishing it. jk
Last edited by 1989k1500; 08-19-2011 at 05:39 PM.
#478
Engine builder finally got a fire lit under his ***. Some details...
I'm using some heads I bought from Spoolin and we threw them on the flow bench and they turned out pretty mean for what they are. 360/280 cfm int/ex at .700 lift and very stout at the lower numbers.
Bottom end
Crank: Eagle 4.100" (I don't wanna hear about it)
Rods: Eagle 6.100"
Pistons: Diamond (should be about 9.5:10
Valve train:
Cam: Secret for now
Lifters: Crower Hippo's
Rockers: Crower Shaft Mount
...a few machining operations, bolt it together and back at it.
Also, I'm switching over to Holley's new Dominator EFI. It's had very good reviews and I'm sure will be much easier than getting this thing perfect with the 411 pcm.
I'll be using my standalone harness for another project.
I'm using some heads I bought from Spoolin and we threw them on the flow bench and they turned out pretty mean for what they are. 360/280 cfm int/ex at .700 lift and very stout at the lower numbers.
Bottom end
Crank: Eagle 4.100" (I don't wanna hear about it)
Rods: Eagle 6.100"
Pistons: Diamond (should be about 9.5:10
Valve train:
Cam: Secret for now
Lifters: Crower Hippo's
Rockers: Crower Shaft Mount
...a few machining operations, bolt it together and back at it.
Also, I'm switching over to Holley's new Dominator EFI. It's had very good reviews and I'm sure will be much easier than getting this thing perfect with the 411 pcm.
I'll be using my standalone harness for another project.