Yep, still in pearland. hit me up sometime

 

wow, just read this whole thread and just wow... lots of attention to detail, i love it. anymore updates coming?

 

Geezzz I'm gonna hear it on this one.

All I'll say is that I'm the new owner of a 4" crank and a piston with a taller compression height.

Also, Joe at Hyperactive (sp?) talked me right out of the Holley EFI and straight into a BS3 setup with an external crank trigger.

Also, as if these other changes weren't enough, the truck is going back to Madman's in a few weeks for a few other updates, I don't have the time to tackle.

 

Big stuff is the ****! You'll love it! Can't wait to see this run. Still think u should go gear drive. Can use ur existing blower head unit and sell the brackets, cogs, etc to recoup some of the coests. Free HP and ur there right now. Good luck.

 

As much as I want to do the gear drive, everytime I talk to anyone who actually has experience with them tell me that I would not be smart to do any driving around with it. For anything that will see any street time its best to keep the belt on it.

The motor I'm building won't hold up to all the F2 has to offer anyway. I'll feel very fortunate if I can come up with a tuneup that will allow 30 psi on a consistant and reliable basis. If I can get it braced up enough the belt should have no issues with that.

 

A cogged belt is what you are going with if i read the title correctly. From my understanding a cogged belt nor a gear would offer any play. Thus making it less then street friendly do to so many flucuations in rpm.

I am asking as much as saying. I am trying to confirm what I think I know or learn something I don't.

 

I wonder if they are talking about the chain drive setups. Those have been known to have failures. I have a gear drive unit from the supercharger store that uses urethane bushings between the gear drive (transmission) and the harmonic balancer and then again between the blower gear drive (transmission) and the supercharger. NewEra Racecraft has a different take on it which I'm sure is as or more effective. Ck out the link below.

Belt will work for sure, but it does put quite a bit more stress on the crank, brackets, etc. Not to mention the parasitic losses, etc. I ran 30psi on my old cog setup for about 1/2 the season, then 25-26psi for the last half and only shredded the teeth off the belt at the very end of the season. The blower did stretch the hell out of the bolts that held the bracket assembly to the head. It would get loose after 1 or 2 passes and I would tighten the bolts back up. When I realized what was happening, I just replaced the bolts with grade 8 bolts and installed a head unit brace. Problem solved. Never ever flung a belt.

There is a guy (see link at bottom) that runs 8's with a street car and has a gear drive on his car now. If you google him, he has posted a ton of information about his experiences and is a cool guy if you pm him questions. He is on all of the mustang boards.

New Parts from New Era Racecraft

Brian Zaid's 8-second Mustang defines Street Fast - Stang TV Forums

Either way will work great. I was just throwing it out there because I think it is very viable solution that will make more power and if you were to do it, now is the time since you are building the truck. Everyone (99.999%) I've ever known including myself always end up going faster and wanting more out of their setups. You already have a bad a$$ setup that will fly just saying. Good luck either way and can't wait to see the results!



Either setup is not as street friendly as a serpentine belt drive. A serpentine belt drive is only capable of so much though before it slips. Some of these big blowers can consume 150-200+ horsepower to drive at full tilt (spun up to their max impellar rpms)!!!! Think about that for a minute --- lol! Crazy! So obviously a cog or alternate drive mechanism (gear drive) will work better as far as spinning the blower as intended. The cog drives transmit a lot of harsh harmonics and side load the hell out of the crank hence one of the reasons that a gear drive blower is more beneficial. A lot of guys that race these cog driven blowers have broken the snouts of their cranks right off, split balancer hubs and sheared the keyways. You should definitely run dual keyways. There are also thicker crank hub balancers you can get as well. To be fair, this is typically seen in max effort combos where the parts are being pushed to their max limits. But if you're running one of these blowers, there is probably a reason for that.....

 

Cog belt on the street should be no problems. I think the Madman is gonna try to integrate the bracket into the motor plate somehow and it will have a strut on the top as well. Probably have two big red BOV's on it.

Talk to Joe at Hyperaktive again today and I think he's got a cool solution for the trigger wheel/balancer to keep blower pulley alignment where it should be. Trying to get ATI to build a balancer with the trigger wheel built into the back of the shell.

 

I have ran the procharger sideslinger cog kit on the street and had 0 problems. I actually prefer it over the belt system for trucks because it elimnates slip. I have driven it on the street with some quick blasts and saw no porblems. I will say that the power comes on so quick that it is pointless on the street but with your suspension it would be a blast. Also it is great because it only takes 2 minutes to take the belt off and put it on so you can drive around without the blower and hook it up whenever you like.

Its going to be sick and can't wait to see it destroying the street/track.

 

have you priced out the whole bs3 system? they have a killer setup that i feel most of the fast efi cars are running. i was pricing out a methanol system for ***** and giggles and it came out $6500!! ouch. you venture over to yellowbullet forum any? with the f2 setup. if you brace up the blower good are you going to do a crank support?