Blown06-New Build: Cage, 4-Link, Cog Drive, + Too Much More
#952
I am sure you have tried about everything, but do you have a pulley to make really low boost and see if it runs ok? It still runs just fine N/A but stumbles with the boost correct?
I sure hope you get the small gremlin off your back. Kind of like having the sexiest chick ever laying in your bed, but all you can do is message her from the other room!
I sure hope you get the small gremlin off your back. Kind of like having the sexiest chick ever laying in your bed, but all you can do is message her from the other room!
#953
I am sure you have tried about everything, but do you have a pulley to make really low boost and see if it runs ok? It still runs just fine N/A but stumbles with the boost correct?
I sure hope you get the small gremlin off your back. Kind of like having the sexiest chick ever laying in your bed, but all you can do is message her from the other room!
I sure hope you get the small gremlin off your back. Kind of like having the sexiest chick ever laying in your bed, but all you can do is message her from the other room!
**** I just wish I had a hot chick in my bed period......even if I can't go in the room.
#954
1. How do you have the grounds run (specifically where)?
2. Powers?
3. Harness --- swapped or no (you were talking about buying another one IIRC)?
4. Have you tried monitoring powers at each point of the ECU during condition. A lot of meters like the Fluke have a min/max feature that you can use to see if voltage is dropping down or out at the time of the problem.
5. If you have access to a scope, that would be awesome! Monitor the crank signal during the problem too. The logs don't tell the whole story as it is info that the processor is telling you. In some cases, you have screwed up data going in which the processor doesn't expect or know what to do with and it may log out something that isn't completely accurate. Hope I made sense there. I remember dealing with some old Ford driveability problems where the O2 (Datalog) was showing just over 1 volt (1.2-1.3 IIRC). Obviously, an O2 reads between 0-1. Made no sense right? Read the actual voltage that the ecm was seeing (backprobed connector at ecm) and it was more like 7 or 8 volts! It was getting the higher voltage bleed over into the signal circuit from the heater circuit (12volt) that was in the same connector next to it --- had water in the connector allowing this. Lots of weird cases like this in different areas of the car due to battery acid, water intrusion, etc. Obviously, you don't have issues like this (we would assume) but the only way to rule this junk out is to read the actual voltage the ecu is seeing (backprobe connector)---that whole junk in/junk out thing.
That said, I'm still wondering about your grounds. I chased a similar problem years ago because I was being OCD and didn't want to have my powers and grounds running straight to the battery like the manufacturer recommended. After pissing away a ton of time and hair, I ran them straight to the battery as a test and the car suddenly ran like it was supposed to -- lol!
Also, have you posted up a thread on yellowbullet.com? It is a great site with tons of knowledgeable gearheads from all over the world. Someone over there will be able to help. This combo is relatively mild compared to most of those nutjobs ;-)
Good luck----looking forward to seeing some passes in 2013.
P.S. Screw the low boost pulleys---let it EAT!!!! :-D
2. Powers?
3. Harness --- swapped or no (you were talking about buying another one IIRC)?
4. Have you tried monitoring powers at each point of the ECU during condition. A lot of meters like the Fluke have a min/max feature that you can use to see if voltage is dropping down or out at the time of the problem.
5. If you have access to a scope, that would be awesome! Monitor the crank signal during the problem too. The logs don't tell the whole story as it is info that the processor is telling you. In some cases, you have screwed up data going in which the processor doesn't expect or know what to do with and it may log out something that isn't completely accurate. Hope I made sense there. I remember dealing with some old Ford driveability problems where the O2 (Datalog) was showing just over 1 volt (1.2-1.3 IIRC). Obviously, an O2 reads between 0-1. Made no sense right? Read the actual voltage that the ecm was seeing (backprobed connector at ecm) and it was more like 7 or 8 volts! It was getting the higher voltage bleed over into the signal circuit from the heater circuit (12volt) that was in the same connector next to it --- had water in the connector allowing this. Lots of weird cases like this in different areas of the car due to battery acid, water intrusion, etc. Obviously, you don't have issues like this (we would assume) but the only way to rule this junk out is to read the actual voltage the ecu is seeing (backprobe connector)---that whole junk in/junk out thing.
That said, I'm still wondering about your grounds. I chased a similar problem years ago because I was being OCD and didn't want to have my powers and grounds running straight to the battery like the manufacturer recommended. After pissing away a ton of time and hair, I ran them straight to the battery as a test and the car suddenly ran like it was supposed to -- lol!
Also, have you posted up a thread on yellowbullet.com? It is a great site with tons of knowledgeable gearheads from all over the world. Someone over there will be able to help. This combo is relatively mild compared to most of those nutjobs ;-)
Good luck----looking forward to seeing some passes in 2013.
P.S. Screw the low boost pulleys---let it EAT!!!! :-D
#956
It has the lowest boost pulleys I have on it right now. I'm not gonna spend money for pulleys I'll never use. I mean if it runs fine on 10 psi so what......I'm not trying to run it there. The fact is that it doesn't work. I think I've seen 12-14 psi which is nothing........I'm shooting for closer to 30.
**** I just wish I had a hot chick in my bed period......even if I can't go in the room.
**** I just wish I had a hot chick in my bed period......even if I can't go in the room.
Again just trying to give you ideas to look since unfortunately all of the steps so far haven't produce anything positive.
Again good luck and hope it gets worked out soon. For you sanity and all of our entertainment!
#957
Got my ecu back from holley along with one of their hall effect sensors for the trigger wheel. Dropped the balancer/trigger wheel assembly off at the machine shop today. He's gotta do some lathe work to get it solidly mounted behind the balancer. If I can get it back before the end of the week, I'll be making noise again this weekend.
#958
Just spent the last few hours going over this entire thread. Wow absolutely amazing. Your truck is beautiful I'm sure everyone on here agrees. I cant wait to see some vids and pics of final setup. Great Job get it done and drive this thing. Just an observation stock brakes might not work to well might need a chute or 2. Great Truck