Blown06 Suspension/Drivetrain Project: 4/6 Drop, QA-1's, 5-Lug, Bogarts, Long-bars
#22
Got started on fabbing up the torque-arm mount on the rearend. I'm using some 12 gauge steel to dummy this thing up and then once I have templates I'm going to have everything laser cut out of 1/4" plate. Then weld it all together. There will be two mounts on the housing for the torque-arm. There will be one above and one below the axle center line close to the center of the rearend. I'm going a little over board but the mount is also serving to stiffen the housing up and also to keep the tubes from spinning in the housing. I'll have more progress pics as I go. Tomorrow I'm going to have the first 10 pieces cut, get those mounted up and take some final measurements for the rest of it. I hope to have the rearend completely done by the end of the week. Then on to the torque-arm. I think ya'll will like what I have in store for it.
My welding machine:
Some rearend pics. Remember I'm using this thin sheet metal to make templates for the final pieces.
My welding machine:
Some rearend pics. Remember I'm using this thin sheet metal to make templates for the final pieces.
#23
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Are you planning on welding to the cast center section? Before you get too crazy fab'ing stuff, check out this little beauty:
The one on left is a reproduction that I'm trying to procure. It fits the 8.5" 10-bolt obviously for the GNX, but should fit our 10-bolt too.
The one on left is a reproduction that I'm trying to procure. It fits the 8.5" 10-bolt obviously for the GNX, but should fit our 10-bolt too.
#24
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Whilst thinking about this further, it sounds like you're going to have to run a panhard bar, drag link or some lateral locating device. Why not just go with the KP Components watts link and build your torque arm mounts off of that.
Attached is a picture of the watts link and circled are the points you could pick up on.
Attached is a picture of the watts link and circled are the points you could pick up on.
#25
Whilst thinking about this further, it sounds like you're going to have to run a panhard bar, drag link or some lateral locating device. Why not just go with the KP Components watts link and build your torque arm mounts off of that.
Attached is a picture of the watts link and circled are the points you could pick up on.
Attached is a picture of the watts link and circled are the points you could pick up on.
I'm confused as to why you think I will need a panhard bar or some other locating devise. ??? I'll still be using the leaf springs so the rearend will locate off of that.
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Are you going to be using a housing floater or anything or will there be a shackle on the front of the torque arm?
It's good to see you're putting the effort into the 10-bolt. I think more of our trucks have bent housings/axle tubes than we know. I think mine does (hence the bent axle), but there's no way to really tell. I was thinking of going with one of these braces. You could incorporate this into your design as well.
http://www.lpwracing.com/p_axletubebrace.asp
#27
I thought you were ditching the leafs in favor of coilovers with all the fabbing you're doing. Torque arm, long bars/control arms and a pan hard/drag link. I've never seen a GNX tear one of those up, but I've never seen a GNX weigh 4500lbs. The fact it's aluminum scares me too.
Are you going to be using a housing floater or anything or will there be a shackle on the front of the torque arm?
It's good to see you're putting the effort into the 10-bolt. I think more of our trucks have bent housings/axle tubes than we know. I think mine does (hence the bent axle), but there's no way to really tell. I was thinking of going with one of these braces. You could incorporate this into your design as well.
http://www.lpwracing.com/p_axletubebrace.asp
Are you going to be using a housing floater or anything or will there be a shackle on the front of the torque arm?
It's good to see you're putting the effort into the 10-bolt. I think more of our trucks have bent housings/axle tubes than we know. I think mine does (hence the bent axle), but there's no way to really tell. I was thinking of going with one of these braces. You could incorporate this into your design as well.
http://www.lpwracing.com/p_axletubebrace.asp
No, I'm using the stock leafs, flip kit, Stocker Star QA-1 shocks (revised mounting location) and a torque arm. The arm is going to have a shackle mount in the front to keep it from binding up. I bought the shackle from Spohn and ordered some .095 wall, 1 1/4" chromemoly tubing and 3/4 chromemoly rod ends from chassis engineering to build the arm. I'm hoping that with the T-brake, gears, pulley change and looser converter it will 60' somewhere in the mid 1.5 range. BTW, I'm not going with the 4.56 gears as after doing some calculating and looking at some logged runs it appears that I'll be running out of rpm if I decide to add any more power. So it will be 4.10's. Also, I'm starting to consider the eaton clutch type posi unit over the true trac. After some reading it seems like it is more suitable for a drag set up when a spool is not an option. Am I crazy for thinking that?
That support you linked to looks like a great idea. I'm gonna hold off on that but could be an option if it keeps bending the rearend like it did.
#28
All the fab work on the rearend housing is done and its back at the shop getting 4.10 gears and a new posi unit. I'll be picking it up this Friday and should have it back in the truck this weekend. Once its back in the truck I can make/mount the new upper shock brackets and get the shocks mounted. After that all that is left to do suspension wise is set the pinion angle, align the front end and build the torque arm. Once everything is complete I can take final measurements for the wheels and send the axles, drums, hubs and rotors to moser for redrilling. I have alot of pics of the fab work on the housing so I'm gonna do it in multiple posts.
Fabrication of the upper housing brace and top mounting pad for the torque arm:
Fabrication of the upper housing brace and top mounting pad for the torque arm:
Last edited by Blown06; 06-15-2009 at 07:53 PM.
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Damn everything is looking good... ????? for you thow on you exhaust... Do you have any type of crack around 3k?? Would it be possible to get a sound clip of it.. I am running a 4 inch exhaust with a dmax bullet in the same location and have a horrible crack at 3k... Thanks...