Budget Build Thread - Help
09-03-2012 | 12:32 AM
#11
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 199
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From: Dallas, GA
There is 15 bolts total on each head. I bet you missed one in the rocker area or possibly all if you did not remove the Rocker arms and supports.
The broken exhaust bolt is easy to remove as mentioned or buy using an easy out. If your not confident any machine shop can do it for you.
The broken exhaust bolt is easy to remove as mentioned or buy using an easy out. If your not confident any machine shop can do it for you.
Thanks man the diagram and 15 bolts helped alot. I went out and counted 10 bolts that I removed and started to look into the head I did have the valve cover off but didnt bother to look inside just around the outside of the head. I looked closer in there and saw the remaining 5 covered in oil its really hard to see. Lol
09-03-2012 | 12:50 AM
#12
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 199
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From: Dallas, GA
There is a set of bolts along the top edge of the head. Mine were covered with grease and grime and took me a minute to realize they were there. I am sure that is your problem with the heads not coming off.
The manifold bolt is an easy one if you have a welder or know some one who does. If it broke off flush then you need to build a tit with the welder then weld a nut to the tit and it will come out with ease. I have done quite a few for a few trucks in the shop.
P.S. I appreciate your ambition and we all learn much more from doing things a few times but make sure you do as much reading as possible. Just like with the converter left on the engine you can quickly spend a lot of money just to repair something ruined. You seem to be a doing a great job so far but just try to learn from others and not by tearing something up pulling it apart.
The manifold bolt is an easy one if you have a welder or know some one who does. If it broke off flush then you need to build a tit with the welder then weld a nut to the tit and it will come out with ease. I have done quite a few for a few trucks in the shop.
P.S. I appreciate your ambition and we all learn much more from doing things a few times but make sure you do as much reading as possible. Just like with the converter left on the engine you can quickly spend a lot of money just to repair something ruined. You seem to be a doing a great job so far but just try to learn from others and not by tearing something up pulling it apart.
Yea there is a alot of good info on here and I ordered a book on how to rebuild the LS engine that should help. The bolt that broke off is about a 1/16" in side the head but hopefully I can figure something out.
09-03-2012 | 02:23 PM
#14
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 199
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From: Dallas, GA
So you figure the cost of the new motor 500-1000 plus new, head gaskets, head studs and any unknown stuff.
With my exsisting motor all the money saved not buying and taking a chance buying one I can dump into this one at least I keep telling myself that to keep me going. Lol
Also I want to learn how to fo this but it's getting alittle scary the further I dig into the motor. Lol
09-03-2012 | 03:31 PM
#15
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 199
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From: Dallas, GA
Ok I'm at the point where I need to decide whether to replace the valve train or keep it.
Any body with experice please chime in I've read some where that I could salvage everything except the lifters is this true?
If not could any venders help me out on pricing and what to do. I know I need a good head gasket set, head studs, timing chain, intake gasket and what everyelse you recommend I need.
Any body with experice please chime in I've read some where that I could salvage everything except the lifters is this true?
If not could any venders help me out on pricing and what to do. I know I need a good head gasket set, head studs, timing chain, intake gasket and what everyelse you recommend I need.
09-04-2012 | 12:20 AM
#17
if you adding a bigger cam than stock you will need to change the push rods and springs, they sale the complete kit cam, springs and push rods. since you taking the heads off might as well upgrade lifters to ls7 and i might be forggeting something
09-04-2012 | 12:52 AM
#19
I have a gauge for that
iTrader: (42)
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,266
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From: Huntsville, AL
Well to give the run down I wanted to turbo my Tahoe but after a little thinking I decided to look for a cheap but clean RC. I ended up buying an extremely clean RC 2000 Gmc Sierra with the 5.3. The guy I bought it from owned since 2001 and when he got it, it only had 7000 miles on it. His add on Craigslist had two pictures and gave a brief description of the vehicle and said that the truck is not running and needs engine repair. When I got up to the guys house he said he hadn’t started in a year but the reason why it needs engine repair is because it has water in the oil. I’m thinking that it has a blown head gasket so I ended up buying the truck (or stealing it because I got it so cheap) and bringing it home I drain the tank put fresh oil, new thermostat and check fuses and so on and with help from my brother I get it started. He has to bang on the started but it fires up drives around without over heated but when its running it leaks around the bell housing possible a rear main seal. I read all the time about junk yard motors so I think with a little work I could get it up and boosting soon.
I decided since I plan on Turboing the truck I need to upgrade parts and fix the issues and go through it. I pulled out the motor and got the trans separated now I can’t get the converter off so I can mount the engine on a stand.
My questions are:
1. How do I remove the bell housing from the engine, there’s no room to get a tool in the there?
2. How will I be able to tell if it was a blown head gasket? If it is was would you recommend getting them fixed or get another set? Keep in mind I would like to save money and put it elsewhere if I can.
3. I need head studs and not sure on which ones to get and also the best head gaskets for boost?
4. I’m thinking since it’s got 16x,xxx miles on the clock and while I got it apart I should replace the springs in the heads?
5. I would like to put a cam I’m thinking the com cam 265 or the 275? Is it hard to replace the cam and if I do I would need to upgrade parts and the heads could you guys tell me which parts I need?
6. The last question for now is… I’m not sure which trans is in it how can I tell for sure? I want to put a transgo kit in; is it hard and is it worth it?
I decided since I plan on Turboing the truck I need to upgrade parts and fix the issues and go through it. I pulled out the motor and got the trans separated now I can’t get the converter off so I can mount the engine on a stand.
My questions are:
1. How do I remove the bell housing from the engine, there’s no room to get a tool in the there?
2. How will I be able to tell if it was a blown head gasket? If it is was would you recommend getting them fixed or get another set? Keep in mind I would like to save money and put it elsewhere if I can.
3. I need head studs and not sure on which ones to get and also the best head gaskets for boost?
4. I’m thinking since it’s got 16x,xxx miles on the clock and while I got it apart I should replace the springs in the heads?
5. I would like to put a cam I’m thinking the com cam 265 or the 275? Is it hard to replace the cam and if I do I would need to upgrade parts and the heads could you guys tell me which parts I need?
6. The last question for now is… I’m not sure which trans is in it how can I tell for sure? I want to put a transgo kit in; is it hard and is it worth it?
You need to look in the trans right beside the input shaft past the seal, you should see a ring with 2 tabs...if it rotates as a whole you might be alright, but if its in pieces it needs to be replaced.
As for your questions...
1. I think you already figured this one out, but a lot of extensions and a swivel joint really help.
2. When you take the head off if there is an obvious water trail from one of the coolant passages to the cylinder. Get another set (see question 3).
3. Get some factory LS9 head gaskets. Also guys have had luck lately with the ebay head studs which can be had for half the price of ARP.
4. You should upgrade the springs, espcially since you want to run boost and a bigger cam. The springs you need will depend on the valve lift of the cam you choose and how high you want to rev the engine.
5. What are the specs on those cams? A good, cheap turbo cam would be a stock LS6 cam if you can find a good deal on one. You asked this later, but get an LS2 timing chain, some water pump gaskets, head gaskets, front seal, rear main seal, rear cover seal, upgrade to LS7 lifters, valve springs, and maybe pushrods, and you will be good to go.
6. You have the 4l60e, it needs a shift kit at least. Not sure how hard, but it is definitely worth it. The 60e doesnt have a chance without at least a shift kit and servo upgrade.
09-04-2012 | 12:47 PM
#20
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 199
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From: Dallas, GA
Thanks Atomic that's really want I need a quick list. Yea I plan on order just about everything that you mentioned plus I'm going to go ahead and replace the water and oil pump while it's right there. The ls2 chain is there a specific reason for using it rather then just using a stock one? I've heard it metioned several times and just wonder why. Yea as for the Arp's I've searched around and it looks line there's 2 version one if your keeping your heads on and one if your taking them off? One thing Ive noticed is the pricing varies so much I'm really not sure if I'm looking at the right ones. Lol
If any venders sell Arp studs If you could please PM I'm in need of them plus ls9 head gaskets.
Thanks
If any venders sell Arp studs If you could please PM I'm in need of them plus ls9 head gaskets.
Thanks