A completely different kind of project.
02-12-2011, 08:14 PM
#41
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Phew! Give the man a break, he's a grown man! I agree on ALL saftey points people have said, if you do decide to keep fabbing stuff ilke this just give us a fair warning about what track you will be at! 
02-12-2011, 08:57 PM
#43
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I would def be doing it out of aluminum.. Second is I would use http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/kit942 these, so that the shaft is free, has no chance of binding up from scoring itself.. Jus saying
02-12-2011, 09:14 PM
#44
The real sad part is he will run into someone's nice vehicle someday because his throttle stuck. Ideas like a home made TB, and no front brakes is just a complete disaster waiting to happen. I can care less about the other things, but safety items should not be cut short in any way to save a buck.
02-12-2011, 09:40 PM
#45
I really don't understand why everyone thinks that a TB is magic.
The TB isn't probably going to stay cooler then stock because it won't have the coolant passages in it like a stock one does to make it not freeze in cold weather. Apparently you didn't take that into consideration on your "heat soak" theory.
Why am I in the wrong hobby if I am trying to save $150 and build a one-off part in the process? Everyday people do what they can to make there car faster for the least amount of money. A TB isn't "something as important". I am half temped to simply get a pipe ball valve mount it up and run it. Just to show all the people who think that a TB is so special and complicated, how truly simple it is. An electric cut would work good if you were DBW.
I am not building pistons from pop cans and connecting rods from re-bar. It is possibly the most simple part under the hood of your truck. It truly is as simple as it looks. Worse case if for some unforeseen reason i need to add a IAC that won't be that complicated either. I am very very confident I won't need one and it should idle perfectly. Worse case warm up will take a few seconds but not long. Newer injected cars don't have a high idle like a carb cars did. Especially on warm summer days.
The TB isn't probably going to stay cooler then stock because it won't have the coolant passages in it like a stock one does to make it not freeze in cold weather. Apparently you didn't take that into consideration on your "heat soak" theory.
Why am I in the wrong hobby if I am trying to save $150 and build a one-off part in the process? Everyday people do what they can to make there car faster for the least amount of money. A TB isn't "something as important". I am half temped to simply get a pipe ball valve mount it up and run it. Just to show all the people who think that a TB is so special and complicated, how truly simple it is. An electric cut would work good if you were DBW.
I am not building pistons from pop cans and connecting rods from re-bar. It is possibly the most simple part under the hood of your truck. It truly is as simple as it looks. Worse case if for some unforeseen reason i need to add a IAC that won't be that complicated either. I am very very confident I won't need one and it should idle perfectly. Worse case warm up will take a few seconds but not long. Newer injected cars don't have a high idle like a carb cars did. Especially on warm summer days.
02-12-2011, 09:46 PM
#46
The real sad part is he will run into someone's nice vehicle someday because his throttle stuck. Ideas like a home made TB, and no front brakes is just a complete disaster waiting to happen. I can care less about the other things, but safety items should not be cut short in any way to save a buck.
The front brakes issue was question to see if anyone ever gave it a shot. Dragsters do it every day and there is a chance it could work out on a truck. I will play with it this summer just to see if it is feasible. Just for the record a track official said there would be ZERO issues running no front brakes at the track. Only issue he saw was that in competition you can't cross the start line on your burnout or you are disqualified.
I certainly won't just rip the brakes off and head down the road. As with anything testing and verification will be done before I hit the track and run 100 plus without any brakes missing.
02-12-2011, 09:53 PM
#48
I know when a IAC stick all it does is make idle high or low. I have had a few get gunked up and not work properly. It isn't the end of the world. In fact my buddies jeep right now has what I believe is a sticking IAC and it just spudders a few times until it gets warm. That is in 10* and less. If this is the case I can't see mine missing in warm weather causing an issue.
02-12-2011, 09:55 PM
#49
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The TB isn't probably going to stay cooler then stock because it won't have the coolant passages in it like a stock one does to make it not freeze in cold weather. Apparently you didn't take that into consideration on your "heat soak" theory.
I am very very confident I won't need one and it should idle perfectly. Worse case warm up will take a few seconds but not long. Newer injected cars don't have a high idle like a carb cars did. Especially on warm summer days.
I am very very confident I won't need one and it should idle perfectly. Worse case warm up will take a few seconds but not long. Newer injected cars don't have a high idle like a carb cars did. Especially on warm summer days.
Go unplug your IAC and try driving your truck. The IAC is constantly moving. Not just temp changes or warm up. All the time. Every time you put it in gear, or put it in park. Every time you come to a stop. Its constantly changing.
Because the blade could get stuck inside the pipe. They are going to have different expansion rates as it gets hot for one thing.
02-12-2011, 09:57 PM
#50
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I knew that wasn't the size for the throttle shaft. I am pretty sure they list the ID then OD then length on that site. They don't really point that out anywhere so that's why I was asking.