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El Bandito

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Old 11-06-2020, 02:24 PM
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Originally Posted by RedXray
The negative battery cable has a place on the block piggybacked to a smaller ground. See last pic I posted above... look at the number 5 & 4 wire. Ground is ground but that is the correct battery grounding place on the block.
Yeah all of that text was from last night, I couldn't reach that part of the block for some reason and then I realized I am just retarded and can reach it from underneath. Anyways a little update here the battery is good but it is on it's last 25% of life, fully charged now and I will put it back in the truck.

My theory on the auto lights not coming on is that my parking brake is on which if I remember correctly is how the parking brake works in this truck, I rarely use it. So I am led to believe that somehow this is tied into the gauge not coming on all the way. I believe this because the only lights that come on for the gauges are the SES and parking brake maybe(?) now I cannot remember but if I push down on the trip reset stalk, the little black thing that sticks out, and I hold it the entire cluster comes to life. All my gauges work properly and all the lights do their flashing and what not. I'm assuming and praying that this is related to the parking brake but we will see tonight. I get the feeling I am wrong....

Also I know that it is not the cluster because I have tried with my original cluster and same issue solved with the same solution. Cluster was working just fine before I literally swapped the engines.
Old 11-06-2020, 05:56 PM
  #112  
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I hate those auto headlights so much I cut into the harness under the dash and soldered in a resistor (grey wire) to permanently disable them. I got tired of pushing the cargo lamp button to bypass that annoying feature. At dusk vehicles look better with only the running lights especially with LED's. Plus if you have a questionable battery charge I don't want to lose cranking power from the dam headlamps.

I can say this about a low or dying battery... my dash lamps and gauges go nuts and the door/key chime raises hell like the truck is possessed. I can turn off the key and the engine keeps running. To kill the engine I have to lightly scrape the flywheel to the starter gear. My truck does not like a low battery... that said I'm on the 4th battery in 18 years so not to bad. If you have to replace the battery buy a good one like an AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) type battery. Don't worry about brand names as all the batteries are either manufactured by either Excide or Johnson Controls (Interstate, Diehard, Walmart, Duralast, Autocraft etc.) buy the one that looks good under the hood... Interstate green lol

What kills batteries is not having them secured in the tray... the vibrations just kill them out real fast
Old 11-06-2020, 06:00 PM
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It is alive again! Got it to start again today and drove it to the gas station to put some 93 in. Has absolutely no ***** off the line. I feel like I am in limp mode and feel like I never shifted once. I have medium shift from the tuner so I shoulda felt it. Still having the problem with the gauge cluster, have to press and hold the trip reset to get all the gauges to come on and work, as soon as I let go of it all the gauges and lights turn off except for the voltage and the oil pressure.

Gonna take the good scan tool to it on Saturday and see what's up, probably take it back to the tuner on Sunday and ask if they can help
Old 11-06-2020, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by RedXray
I hate those auto headlights so much I cut into the harness under the dash and soldered in a resistor (grey wire) to permanently disable them. I got tired of pushing the cargo lamp button to bypass that annoying feature. At dusk vehicles look better with only the running lights especially with LED's. Plus if you have a questionable battery charge I don't want to lose cranking power from the dam headlamps.

I can say this about a low or dying battery... my dash lamps and gauges go nuts and the door/key chime raises hell like the truck is possessed. I can turn off the key and the engine keeps running. To kill the engine I have to lightly scrape the flywheel to the starter gear. My truck does not like a low battery... that said I'm on the 4th battery in 18 years so not to bad. If you have to replace the battery buy a good one like an AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) type battery. Don't worry about brand names as all the batteries are either manufactured by either Excide or Johnson Controls (Interstate, Diehard, Walmart, Duralast, Autocraft etc.) buy the one that looks good under the hood... Interstate green lol

What kills batteries is not having them secured in the tray... the vibrations just kill them out real fast
I like my auto headlamps, my parking brake was stopping them from coming on LMFAO I was just a retard

Also currently I have an ACDelco battery, I have nothing other than the starting issues that the battery is going out so maybe I was just wishful thinking it, also see above comment to see previous comment since we posted at the same time
Old 11-06-2020, 06:15 PM
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I hate the auto headlamps and disabled them with resistor as well. The older trucks didn't have a way to turn off the lights with the headlight switch (well the dome override, IF it worked), but I think that changed in 03+ with a new lamp selector switch.

It's nice when problems have simple solutions as well...
Old 11-06-2020, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by silentbravo
The older trucks didn't have a way to turn off the lights with the headlight switch (well the dome override, IF it worked), but I think that changed in 03+ with a new lamp selector switch.

It's nice when problems have simple solutions as well...
The dome override only works in 00-02 my 99 doesn't have it. Yes to the 03 thing and actually you can install the switch in the 00-02 from the 03+ to turn the headlights off without doing the dome override. I have the link if you would be interested in it.

I agree hence why now I am banking on it being the tune.
Old 11-07-2020, 11:13 PM
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Damn what a day I have had.
So I figured out why the truck had no gauge cluster and was stuck in third. So when that happens it means it is in limp mode, weird that the cluster was out but whatever. Found a guy who had a similar problem, the Ign 0 fuse was blown. It is an inside the cab fuse. Replaced it and truck fires up cluster is good and I shift!!!

Onto the second part of my day, figured out that what I thought was an exhaust leak was most likely some sort of sheet metal slapping and finally settling down because I no longer have a weird ticking noise. So that is one thing done. Drive the truck around for a little do some hot rodding nd through some codes, no biggie I expect this from an engine swap. Get home and I have P0151, bank 2 sensor 1 so that blows. Scan tool shows that it is weird, that side is "cool" while engine is running while the other side is hot, 200 degrees compared to 400 degrees respectively. This lead me to believe that possible the O2 sensor is not getting voltage which is kinda wasn't, I can't really explain exactly what it was doing but it doesn't particularly matter now as I have replaced it. It fixed the problem a little bit but once the fuel goes into an open loop rather than closed the truck basically craps it's pants and everything starts to stumble and it doesn't want to properly accelerate etc.

I am thinking that it is a tune issue since there is still voltage going to the sensor and I have replaced the sensor to no avail. If there was no voltage I would say wire is messed up but I mean voltage is there O2 sensor works. Emailed the tuner and we'll see what he says. Probably will drive it down and have him street tune it anyways for me. Let me know if you have any ideas on this code.
Old 11-13-2020, 03:43 PM
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Well 5 days later and I now have a working running cammed LQ4!! After spending a few days in the shop just tinkering with things I finally figured out what was wrong and have fixed it with a retune. Here is the break down of everything I tried,

1. First I tried replacing the fuel filter as that was a common fix on identifix. Although my fuel filter was original to the truck and definitely was shot as there was black sludge coming out of it if you blew on it, that turned out to not solve the issue.
2. Next I tested for pressure from the pump, the pump held pressure when I removed the fuel pressure regulator vacuum hose so I checked the pump off the list and replaced the fuel pressure regulator. Once again another 21 year old part that actually helped a little but did not fix the problem completely.
3. MAF sensor. This was another common fix on identifix and I replaced it with a known good one and lo and behold it worked! The code was gone, the engine ran like dog crap but the code was gone. Drove it around yada yada took it back to the shop the next day just to check everything out with the scan tool and it was still good but ran rough. Bank 2 was still wayyyyyy too lean and the O2 sensor voltage was still below par. So back out came the pressure gauge.
4. I tested each injector to see if they all held pressure and yes they all did hold pressure but two injectors, 6 and 8, would not lose pressure they would climb up the 58 and then stay there. Finally! I had found the problem and replaced those two injectors after testing the wires to make sure that those wires were good and pulsing. Ended up replacing all the injectors with 42lb/hr injectors and took the computer down to get retuned since it was now running rich.
5. Get a speeding ticket on the way back that needs a lawyer oops

So that is it, for the engine....

Next as I was doing burnouts in the shop I noticed that I was burning out only on one tire so my uncle gave me a good posi out of a Yukon he had to replace the rear end for, something completely unrelated to the posi. Took my posi out and found a huge chunk of metal in there which is why mine was not working lol. Replaced it and now we are burning out on two tires now

After that I replaced my front shocks with some that my uncle had bought for his 2500 but they didn't fit so he thinks he just bought the wrongs ones. So now I have an overhauled truck basically lol
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dantheman1540 (11-13-2020)
Old 11-13-2020, 03:53 PM
  #119  
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Pics/videos or the burnouts are considered fake news.

Glad you got it running and reported back!
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tjmath (11-13-2020)
Old 11-13-2020, 03:55 PM
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It is a baby burnout in the middle of the night but I will post

Yeah me too, I was starting to feel a little retarded but now I feel really good about myself, which was then cut short by the ticket cost lmfao


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