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Should I keep this on the -1 retard or make a new save, I am assuming new save? Should I also add some more timing say like +.5 degrees and then drop down if needed?
Should I keep this on the -1 retard or make a new save, I am assuming new save? Should I also add some more timing say like +.5 degrees and then drop down if needed?
*Sigh* goodbye my sweet 16 miles to the gallon.
You are good with the "Pulled one degree check file notes 5-7-2021" file. When you make the next change to the tune it will be named something else (whatever - date) and the "Pulled one degree check file notes 5-7-2021" will still be in the tune folder in case the change (whatever - date) didn't help the tune. Then just flash back to the last good file "Pulled one degree check file notes 5-7-2021" etc.
You should see my tune folder I have probably a hundred files since I started but only the last few are really relevant. Now that "BASE" file is going to always be a keeper.
This is the knock that I was experiencing on my way home the other day. Based on what Red posted earlier I believe it to be random knock. I would post the whole log file but it is too big of a file size and I do not know how to shorten the file in such a way where it grabs only a small portion of it. Anyways I believe that this may be something that would be better with a knock sensor desensitize rather than a timing change. Agree or disagree? It is all in the early RPM range as well sub 2800 but it is mostly during acceleration I think. I am running some fuel system cleaner through my tank right now just as a precaution, I had a bottle on the shelf and said why not.
On another note, first oil change in the 6.0 so that's a landmark and I have an appointment tomorrow at Maaco for an estimate on the truck getting repainted.
Oh and before I get some heat for Maaco, the plan is to wet sand after it’s done to get it looking a bit better. My other reason for maaco estimate is so I can add 50% price to have an idea of the better work. Maaco is a bit of a last resort but that’s sometimes what happens
Oh and before I get some heat for Maaco, the plan is to wet sand after it’s done to get it looking a bit better. My other reason for maaco estimate is so I can add 50% price to have an idea of the better work. Maaco is a bit of a last resort but that’s sometimes what happens
Not here to knock Maaco and actually seen some jobs that looked pretty good... durability factor unknown.
I don't know a whole lot about Maaco services and their pricing. Without body work just to scuff & shoot I'd guess their basic single stage paint job would be around what I'd pay for a gallon of quality base (color depending $400 to $600) and the clear coat about $150 a gallon. That's not counting urethane reducer for the base about $50, at least 3 quarts of clear coat activator $45 (1:1 per quart of clear), $40 quart sealer, epoxy primer if needed $45 quart and $45 quart for it's activator, prep-sol, sandpaper, masking paper & tape and down to a $1 tack rag.
The larger body shops usually have their own paint mixing stations and buy chemicals like reduces in bulk up to 55 gallon drums to save money. Now factor in labor and it's easy to see why some shops starting paint jobs are $3000 and up.
If you were to do the prep yourself not to save money but to actually have the paint bond would go a long way for durability. Prep-Sol to remove grease & wax so it isn't worked into the finish then wet sanding by hand and a rubber block would take about a day. Then let them shoot their premium paint package which would be some house brand base/clear two stage... you'd probably have a decent job. I've had to remove paint that didn't bond and it all has to come off raising my labor time significantly.
When I started painting cars in the mid 70's this new paint hit the automotive market called DuPont Imron. It was a carry over from aviation and was a game changer. The price was $40 a gallon and back then I remember thinking "man this stuff is really good but expensive". If you were to tell me 40 years later a gallon of red base would be $600 a gallon I'd have laughed "no way" lol.
This gallon of 500s clear Imron is almost 25 years old and still shakes wet. Not sure if it's still clear in the can or turned cloudy. If I had some 192s activator I'd bet it would still spray lol. The siphon spray gun is a Binks #7 that was considered the "Cadillac" of paint guns in it's day.
Victory Red PPG Deltron DBU $600 a gallon and behind is a quart of BASF Limco Supreme $140 a quart (GMC bumper cap)
I remember seeing these Earl Scheib ads in the newspaper when I was young... now that's what I call a deal!
Agreed it is all in the prep work. I may still try to take it to the good body shop and see how much they want to do it. 3-4k is a killer but I can take it I think. I really truly just need a paint correction on the sides and then the roof and bed rails and hood need real paint. Sides look good but are scratched to hell
Let my tuner work out my weird knock. Everything seems good and I’m back to normal, he may have dialed in a few things as well but I have not taken any time to look.
After a long few days of thinking I’ve decided I won’t paint the truck this year. Sucks to say but it probably is for the best. This year I’ll still do the drop and find some wheels (which I may have some but they are secret). My goal for the rest of the year is finish the drop and maybe do an entire brake overhaul. Probably keep everything in the suspension stock except for the new coilovers and shock relocation and drop. If it ain’t broke don’t fix it.
Let my tuner work out my weird knock. Everything seems good and I’m back to normal, he may have dialed in a few things as well but I have not taken any time to look.
Open the new file after the tune. Open your last file before the tuner did his magic in the "Compare" tab. Anything that was changed by the tuner will be highlighted in GREEN. Then we can see exactly every change that was made. Was it a dyno tune, street tune or mail tune?
Mail tune, he did my original one and has helped me out a few times. Didn’t know there was a compare button, I kept thinking man that would be useful haha
Mail tune, he did my original one and has helped me out a few times. Didn’t know there was a compare button, I kept thinking man that would be useful haha
The compare button is an awesome feature In HP Tuners. It really helps when you're tuning either the MAF or VE airflow tables. To tune one of those tables you have to disable the other (plus a few other things in the tune). After you finish airflow tuning you have to re-enable the tables you had to disable. Pulling up the last tune in the compare will show in green if you missed re-enabling one of the tables.
05-07-2021, 09:12 PM
