Jack1181

That hole is from the connections not going far enough together. It's cocked.. the reason that "angle" you're talking about is from the collector binding on the inside of the y-pipe and making everything tight.

That should free everything up enough to make the y-pipe "slide" together. Just went through this a few months ago, also on a friends 04 and had to do the same thing on both trucks.

shakenfake

Oh okay I think I understand what you are saying now

Edit: I do want to say that it is possible that my motor mounts are shot. I have heard that you can have clearance issues along the frame rail but not 100% on it. Too cheap and lazy to replace the mounts though

shakenfake

Pretty sure my throttle body is leaking coolant, think I ruptured a hose the other day when doing the knock sensors. Going to do the bypass over the weekend with a brand new hose and nice clamps.

dantheman1540

What year comes with those pesky coolant lines going through the TB? Neither of my trucks have them although they both have LS2 90mms, if they did have them I don't remember what I did to delete them.

shakenfake

No idea, 99-03 is my guess but couldn't say for sure. All I know is that I have coolant on the TOP of my engine so basically only one place to look lol

dantheman1540

99-03 makes sense, are you still running the factory truck TB?

shakenfake

Of course man you know I don't buy big boy parts!

Maybe next year I will swap intake and TB but have not decided

dantheman1540

Throttle bodies have gotten stupidly expensive, especially LS2s. IDK how much a bigger TB really helps on these simple combos I only put one on because a buddy had one that was not working right his LS DBW swapped RX7. It kept throwing codes in the Haltech and would go into limp mode due to what I assumed was a poor connection since the tad on the connector was broken. Anyway, I through it on the Tahoe to see how it acted on a less picky system and it hasn't thrown a code once so Inherited it.

You are DBC tho so none of that matters to you lol. If I were looking at swapping intakes I'd get a belt-driven one, a maggie on your setup would be a twerk monster.

shakenfake

TB still are expensive. A 90mm or 102mm NW is $3-400.

I'm too cheap to buy a belt driven intake. I have 14 repairs, this number is subject to change every week lol, I need to make first before I go anywhere performance wise. About 10 of them are stupid simple it just is too hot to be fooling with them right now. I plan on knocking out 4 more this weekend which reminds me;

Anybody running an LED third brake light? I have LEDs in my stock housing and need to get my cruise back up and running since I have a trip down to Austin coming up. I am concerned about the placement of the resistor since I don't know if there is any good places to mount it back there, am I able to find the proper wire running along the truck somewhere and tap in there instead? Any ideas? If I have to I will go back to the halogen bulbs but I really liked the look of my LEDs and spent like $6 on the bulb

tjmath

You definitely don't need a 90mm or 102mm. You would be perfectly fine getting a ported and polished 3 bolt truck TB. When I did my cam swap in my 99 I had to open up the hole in the blade to get it to idle well at first. Got a P&P TB on it and it definitely increased throttle response with just the swapping of the TB.