El Bandito
#381
Teching In
I've shot hundreds of vehicles from cars, pickup trucks, motorcycles, 18 wheeler's and even a helicopter. I've worked in large dealership body shops, medium sized shops to small mom & pop body shops. Painted in some of the nicest downdraft booths, nice homemade booths, dusty home garages. I've shot cars in mechanics garages, in backyards, gravel driveways and school buses in an asphalt parking lot.
Without a climate controlled booth it's a little harder choosing which reducers and activators (fast, slow or medium) to use if there is a big temp swing (cold morning to hot afternoon). That said spraying in a booth or outside doesn't have a darned thing of how long the paint is going to last. Prep and using a quality paint system plus how the vehicle is cared for dictates longevity.
Shooting outside you're always fighting bugs as they seem to be attracted to the vapor, get buzzed (pun intended) and dive bomb into the wet finish. Happens sometimes even in a commercial paint booth that's why painters always have a pair of tweezers ready. After a cut & buff sometimes their little legs are still barely visible if they landed on the crown of the vehicle.
The biggest thing shooting outside is the sun. You can't let the panels get heated up by the sun. You have to shoot in the morning before the sun peeks over the tree cover or late in the afternoon when the suns behind the trees. A hot panel will not flow and look like **** from the paint drying as soon as it hits. Mornings are the best time when there is a bit of dew on the grass to help keep the dust down.
I think you need to fill out this form yourself
Without a climate controlled booth it's a little harder choosing which reducers and activators (fast, slow or medium) to use if there is a big temp swing (cold morning to hot afternoon). That said spraying in a booth or outside doesn't have a darned thing of how long the paint is going to last. Prep and using a quality paint system plus how the vehicle is cared for dictates longevity.
Shooting outside you're always fighting bugs as they seem to be attracted to the vapor, get buzzed (pun intended) and dive bomb into the wet finish. Happens sometimes even in a commercial paint booth that's why painters always have a pair of tweezers ready. After a cut & buff sometimes their little legs are still barely visible if they landed on the crown of the vehicle.
The biggest thing shooting outside is the sun. You can't let the panels get heated up by the sun. You have to shoot in the morning before the sun peeks over the tree cover or late in the afternoon when the suns behind the trees. A hot panel will not flow and look like **** from the paint drying as soon as it hits. Mornings are the best time when there is a bit of dew on the grass to help keep the dust down.
I think you need to fill out this form yourself
I'm not saying that not using a paint booth directly results in the paint not lasting.
The point I was making is that people who do it at home and don't do it all day every day (ie the ones that don't have a paint booth) may not do as good a job all around, including the prep, which is the most important part in lasting .
In my experience I have seen some outstanding paint jobs from people who do auto body work at home on the side and it looked awesome, some of them just didn't last.
Was it because, they don't do it all day every day, they do it as cheap as possible (cut corners, use cheaper materials) was it because they don't have access to the facilities, tools, equipment, and environment that a professional has, or is it because of some of the things you mentioned?
I would say it is safe to say it is a combination of it all.
My point was, for the last time, nothing to do with the booth as much as it is for the things I just listed. Whether the person doing it at home has a booth or not.
The only reason I even mentioned a booth in my post is because the person I quoted mentioned it. I was just using it as means to describe the person doing the work more so than it being a cause of the paint not lasting.
Now I have seen guys who can paint a car (or truck) on a dirt floor barn and look just as good and last just as long as any body shop (and you may be that one). But for everyone I have seen like that I have seen a dozen that cut corners and use cheap materials to complete the job at the extreme discount price that they do it.
And those cutting corners are not always reflected (no pun intended) in the newly finished product but because they were done in the prep and cheaper materials don't reveal themselves for a period of time (to the lay person anyway that doesn't do body work) and don't last as long.
I'm not sure what you are trying to argue, are you just trying to pick an argument for arguments sake?
#382
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Ordered my coil overs and shock relocation. I am going to do a 4" DJM LCA and a 2" lift coil over based on Atomic's recommendation. Which should get me two inches in the front, this also will allow me to have some play with the coil spring so that if I wanted to drop to a 3" then I could. I trust Atomic's judgement so hopefully it goes smoothly lol shoutout to him for being patient with me because I am a bit retarded
Also what oil are yall using? Should I switch to a 10w-30 or stick with a 5w-30. Just curious.
Also what oil are yall using? Should I switch to a 10w-30 or stick with a 5w-30. Just curious.
The following 2 users liked this post by shakenfake:
dantheman1540 (09-15-2021),
wretched73 (09-15-2021)
#383
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Ordered my coil overs and shock relocation. I am going to do a 4" DJM LCA and a 2" lift coil over based on Atomic's recommendation. Which should get me two inches in the front, this also will allow me to have some play with the coil spring so that if I wanted to drop to a 3" then I could. I trust Atomic's judgement so hopefully it goes smoothly lol shoutout to him for being patient with me because I am a bit retarded
Also what oil are yall using? Should I switch to a 10w-30 or stick with a 5w-30. Just curious.
Also what oil are yall using? Should I switch to a 10w-30 or stick with a 5w-30. Just curious.
I always use 5w-30 pennzoil ultra platinum in my gas engines. 5qt jug on amazon usually runs $25.
#384
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Okay cool just wanted to make sure 5w-30 is still the way to go lol
I don't know a lot of dudes running an LCA drop. Some say it was **** and they had to buy a UCA but others say it was good. Some say replace the ball joints as well.
I don't know a lot of dudes running an LCA drop. Some say it was **** and they had to buy a UCA but others say it was good. Some say replace the ball joints as well.
The following users liked this post:
tjmath (09-17-2021)
#386
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Do yall put oil in the filter before you screw it in? On top of your 6 quarts.
#387
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (5)
not on top of
I buy 6qts, I drain the truck, I drop the old filter, wipe the mounting plate and make sure the spindle is tight in the pan
I prime the new filter, hand tighten it on, 18ft/lbs on the drain plug and add whatever is left (like 5.75qts) to the oil pan
Replace oil cap
Reset the OLM
Start engine, check for leaks
Close hood and drive another 5-7k until the light comes back on
Our trucks hold 6 on the dot. I only check oil 1-2x during an oil change cycle, I don't leak or burn; I add 6 and its always full
I buy 6qts, I drain the truck, I drop the old filter, wipe the mounting plate and make sure the spindle is tight in the pan
I prime the new filter, hand tighten it on, 18ft/lbs on the drain plug and add whatever is left (like 5.75qts) to the oil pan
Replace oil cap
Reset the OLM
Start engine, check for leaks
Close hood and drive another 5-7k until the light comes back on
Our trucks hold 6 on the dot. I only check oil 1-2x during an oil change cycle, I don't leak or burn; I add 6 and its always full
#388
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
Ah okay, I've never primed the filter. I know my dad does it for his drag car but he never had me do it for the truck, guess it is that truck mentality.
So when you drain your oil you get 6 quarts out? I think last time I barely hit 5....
So when you drain your oil you get 6 quarts out? I think last time I barely hit 5....
#389
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (5)
Don't you also have a leak?
Truck holds 6, there is no question about it. I will bet you real, physical assets of legal tender that she holds 6
I don't care if its a 2wd 4.8 RCSB or a 4x4 CCLB 2500 6.0: maintenance oil changes are 6qts
Initial fills on a brand new motor with an oil cooler/lines/empty passages and whatnot will take more; maintenance changes are still 6 (unless you're draining the cooler at every PM)
Even the long vs short filter is still 6. You might get 2-4oz more oil in a long filter, but you can fill it with 6 and never know the difference
Truck holds 6, there is no question about it. I will bet you real, physical assets of legal tender that she holds 6
I don't care if its a 2wd 4.8 RCSB or a 4x4 CCLB 2500 6.0: maintenance oil changes are 6qts
Initial fills on a brand new motor with an oil cooler/lines/empty passages and whatnot will take more; maintenance changes are still 6 (unless you're draining the cooler at every PM)
Even the long vs short filter is still 6. You might get 2-4oz more oil in a long filter, but you can fill it with 6 and never know the difference
#390
TECH Veteran
Thread Starter
That is true but my 5.3 never leaked and I don't think I ever emptied 6 quarts out of it. 100% the truck holds six no arguments I understand that one haha
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...e&gclsrc=aw.ds
This is the dye I am going to dump in there. I have some UV/Blacklights at work I can borrow to track it down. I'll clean up the engine once more, take it for a drive and then check with the blacklight.
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...e&gclsrc=aw.ds
This is the dye I am going to dump in there. I have some UV/Blacklights at work I can borrow to track it down. I'll clean up the engine once more, take it for a drive and then check with the blacklight.