Flatbed car hauler trailer fix-up
#11
Not yet...was thinking about doing pressure treated lumber. That will be the last piece to go back together though.
I'll have to see what style wheels i end up with, might look good though.
I was actually planning on doing bolt on fenders if they will work, easier to replace if they get damaged again in the future.
What did you do to it?
What did you do to it?
#14
I haven't done it to mine yet but I am going to get pretty much the entire trailer line x'd including the planks on the deck. I bought mine new in 2011 but the paint job on it is complete garbage.... They put it on way to thick and didn't put enough hardener in it or something because it's still soft to this day. My trip into the mountains with the quads pretty well finished off any inkling of paint underneath it, lol. I could whine for warranty but it's over a year and really..... do I want another shoddy paint job???? No.
At least they sandblasted it before they painted it though ( it was a custom build, not an off the lot unit). That said I may have to do like you and strip it completely and start over...... sad, lol. I guess at least it isn't rusty, lol.
At least they sandblasted it before they painted it though ( it was a custom build, not an off the lot unit). That said I may have to do like you and strip it completely and start over...... sad, lol. I guess at least it isn't rusty, lol.
#15
I haven't done it to mine yet but I am going to get pretty much the entire trailer line x'd including the planks on the deck. I bought mine new in 2011 but the paint job on it is complete garbage.... They put it on way to thick and didn't put enough hardener in it or something because it's still soft to this day. My trip into the mountains with the quads pretty well finished off any inkling of paint underneath it, lol. I could whine for warranty but it's over a year and really..... do I want another shoddy paint job???? No.
At least they sandblasted it before they painted it though ( it was a custom build, not an off the lot unit). That said I may have to do like you and strip it completely and start over...... sad, lol. I guess at least it isn't rusty, lol.
At least they sandblasted it before they painted it though ( it was a custom build, not an off the lot unit). That said I may have to do like you and strip it completely and start over...... sad, lol. I guess at least it isn't rusty, lol.
#17
So I found several sites that say to only run 0 offset wheels on trailers. I guess the bearings are sensitive to side loading, and running any offset (+ or -) will lead to premature failure.
Does anyone know any Chevy or Dodge factory 8 lug wheels that run 0 offset? The research I did said that all 2001-2008's are +28...
Does anyone know any Chevy or Dodge factory 8 lug wheels that run 0 offset? The research I did said that all 2001-2008's are +28...
#19
I got the stupid rails removed today, as well as the passenger fender. Found out that I'm going to need to weld new fenders on...there's no brackets for bolt-on fenders. Bought a new tongue jack today and got the tongue off the jackstands. No new pics, doesn't look much different.
Trailer dealer that I bought the jack from wants $95/hour to weld...says it takes about 2 hours per fender, and I'm assuming another hour or two for the cracked frame welds. That's somewhere between $500-600 for welding...no thanks. Now seems like a good time to learn myself Was thinking about getting a stick welder since I doubt I'll use it often, and mostly just for small jobs.
I called Linex about having the frame done...they quoted me $1000+ for sandblasting, priming, and spraying. Again, no thanks. It'll be more work but I'm going to get some wire wheels for my angle grinder and do it myself, then prime and paint.
Also found out that there were new Dexter D60 axles installed in 2009, so that's good news.
After purchasing the trailer, fuel to get there and back, disposing of 5 loose tires, new trailer jack, a pack of cutoff wheels, and title/registration, I'm in it for $1436 so far.
Trailer dealer that I bought the jack from wants $95/hour to weld...says it takes about 2 hours per fender, and I'm assuming another hour or two for the cracked frame welds. That's somewhere between $500-600 for welding...no thanks. Now seems like a good time to learn myself Was thinking about getting a stick welder since I doubt I'll use it often, and mostly just for small jobs.
I called Linex about having the frame done...they quoted me $1000+ for sandblasting, priming, and spraying. Again, no thanks. It'll be more work but I'm going to get some wire wheels for my angle grinder and do it myself, then prime and paint.
Also found out that there were new Dexter D60 axles installed in 2009, so that's good news.
After purchasing the trailer, fuel to get there and back, disposing of 5 loose tires, new trailer jack, a pack of cutoff wheels, and title/registration, I'm in it for $1436 so far.
#20
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (5)
Sounds a lot like my trailer when I bought it a few years ago. I got a 20" dove tail locally off Craigslist that needed some work for pretty cheap. It had four different sized tires and one mismatched wheel, decking need a few new boards, light wiring needed fixing, had a bad hub and needed brakes. There were a few redneck renovations which I had to fix too (not unlike the welded tongue ballast on yours, lol). I have since put four new loadstar trailer tires, one new wheel, four new hubs and electric brakes, rewired entire trailer, replaced half the decking and made a few other misc upgrades for my personal use preference. Having a welding machine was really helpful in fixing it up. Some additional mods on the to-do list are welding in some tie-down shackles (since I use it primarily to haul the truck), adding a winch, spare tire mount, new left fender and a complete blast/paint job.
I would suggest a tongue box for your trailer. It will mount on the tongue where your rail ballast was. It is trapezoidal shaped so it will not interfere with your turning radius. The previous owner of my trailer had a full size truck bed tool box mounted on the tongue and it would contact the bumper if I turned too sharp. I have since relocated it to the front of the deck and the truck still fits fine since it is 20'. I have seen the in-floor boxes Cody mentioned and they are super nice but I can imagine they would be pretty costly to retrofit into the deck.
I would suggest a tongue box for your trailer. It will mount on the tongue where your rail ballast was. It is trapezoidal shaped so it will not interfere with your turning radius. The previous owner of my trailer had a full size truck bed tool box mounted on the tongue and it would contact the bumper if I turned too sharp. I have since relocated it to the front of the deck and the truck still fits fine since it is 20'. I have seen the in-floor boxes Cody mentioned and they are super nice but I can imagine they would be pretty costly to retrofit into the deck.